The 510 Realm

The mirror was factory on 1972 cars, sedans and wagons. I put the 1972 mirror on my 1973, as it came with some chrome one. Not sure if the previous owner did it or what, if that was factory.

As the true 1973 cars came with crash bars in the doors, I switched out the doors, as I was going for weight reduction, the 73' doors are HEAVY!

Made an adapter plate out of 1/4" MDF and installed a new 3.5" speaker in preparation for reinstalling my interior. Painted the MDF Black and installed after removing the heater controls. Used the original mounting studs from the intended 3"x5", which is no longer available. Personally, I wouldn't go any larger than 3.5". I soldered the pos/neg from the speaker and positioned them towards the firewall for a cleaner install. Now if only I can figure out what the PO did with the power in line...

My odometer/speedometer works as of today! Cable replaced... easy(ish) fix. Now... the MPH reads probably 25% high. No way the car is that fast.

Also--- replacing (seriously) worn out u joints does f(*&% wonders!

repainted engine bay on the weekend. our local autoparts place messed up with the paint mixing and color wasnt a match- ugh so wasnt looking forward to it

. car#2 new BRE spoiler to match the flares- widened and extended to blend to fender lip. normally the spook ends at the front valance--

Its in primer!

dapper order came in ..just got back from picking up
For a couple client cars,,

I started narrowing the bottom rear seat frame that I grabbed to replace the rear seats. And I thought about the car. It is at the exhaust shop and not at home. Feels weird that its not at the house.

Today i looked at some pics my exhaust guy sent me. I also picked up an mr2 rack so that's coming soon.

A bit of this....

Been trying to resolve an annoying squeak, inside the passenger compartment, up and near where the input/output heater tubes pass thru the firewall. After much head scratching and pushing and pulling on various bits of the heater assembly the light bulb finally came on when I noticed the elongated grommet which supports the two tubes as they pass thru the firewall had slipped, allowing one tube to resonate against the bare edge of the firewall. Some gentle persuasion corrected the grommet position and voila'...

BrianE wrote: ↑18 Aug 2020 15:34 Been trying to resolve an annoying squeak, inside the passenger compartment, up and near where the input/output heater tubes pass thru the firewall. After much head scratching and pushing and pulling on various bits of the heater assembly the light bulb finally came on when I noticed the elongated grommet which supports the two tubes as they pass thru the firewall had slipped, allowing one tube to resonate against the bare edge of the firewall. Some gentle persuasion corrected the grommet position and voila'...

phew!

Today I went and fought my exhaust pyro probe, a B to get out. That hot exhaust gas oxidizes the tip of the probe, so it cannot be withdrawn.

That requires the 1/8" NPT fitting to be removed at the same time with the probe in it. Some bad words said today, as it is hard to get to UNDER the exhaust manifold. This is a time too, when I say......"Why did I put that there...?"

The tip is vaporized, so it is the problem for sure, it has been in there for a lot of years and with exhaust gas temps hitting
1,500F - 1,600F......

Tomorrow off to the thermocouple builder for a new one.

I dropped my thermocouple off at the company that has done some of my units before.

As it turns out, the thermocouple that was in my car, was done many, many years ago, by another company, that was not far from where I worked. In going back through my logs book, I saw no mention of when that went into service, well over 15 years at least. Does not owe me anything.

Downside is this company cannot make a unit like I have and have to get it done by a U.S. company, so it will take a few weeks.

The "exposed" tip and how it is done, for a Type K thermocouple like mine, seemed to be out of their realm.

We at least made a good call to do our drive when we did, with rain predicted for the next 4 days, let alone the smoke has really hit the Interior.

I was a bit shocked when I checked my rad, that the water level was down quite a bit. I will check my catch can and the "siphon" hose, to make sure it is not cracked. My catch bottle is buried next to the passenger side strut, which I cannot get to right now, as car is up against the wall. Might just do a leak down test, you never know, after 18 years on this motor.

Always something......

Keith, check Amazon; $26 Cdn, it will be there in 2 days...

https://www.amazon.ca/Thermocouple-Temp ... 076Q9QWD5/

Thanks Rob, but, I am going to stay with what I know at this point.....reviews show some quick failures, just not interested in that scenario. I know MY exposed junction sticks out aways from the probe tip and I want to retain that function.

Plus, if I do have a problem, I can deal locally with a person I know.