How To Sell Your Car

General Discussion about the Datsun PL510
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okayfine
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How To Sell Your Car

Post by okayfine » 15 Dec 2009 19:38

Long gone are the days when you could toss up any ol’ 510 chassis and get top dollar. How do you present your car, your creation, in a way that will give you the best chance to get the highest price possible? It takes more than three minutes, but the time you spend initially will be saved when you don’t have to answer twenty questions that should have been addressed in your ad.

Determine Your Market

Are you aware of recent selling prices of comparable 510s? Are you in a competitive 510 market? Do you have a gem in a corn field (in other words, do you have a rust-free car in the Midwest)?

These types of questions are important for you to determine your selling price. Keep in mind your selling price has very little to do with the total of your receipts, or what you paid for the car three years ago. Your selling price has everything to do with what someone will pay you for your car – if you’re in Colorado, using comparable prices from California may not benefit you in your quest to sell your car.

Offering up a car for a ridiculous price may assuage your ego or sentimental feelings about your car, but it likely won’t get it sold. You could have $20,000 wrapped up in your car, but if it doesn’t present well, it may not even fetch $8,000 on the market, whereas another 510 with $20,000 put into it might get much closer to the build cost.

Research sold cars and, as best as can be determined, what they sold for. If you know you’re going to sell your car in the future, start tracking completed auctions on eBay, or sold cars in The Realm now. Then, objectively, compare your car to those you found. Is your car better in some ways, worse in others? How it compares to what you know other cars have sold for will be one of the best guides for you to set the price for your car. For this to work, however, you have to set aside your personal involvement in the car.

Target Your Market

What is the next step? Target your market; who’s the likely buyer for what you’re trying to sell and what are they going to be interested in seeing/hearing about? Are you selling a rolling chassis, a low-buck beater, an original 510, a resto-mod 510? Each type of buyer is going to be interested in different things, so one size ad does not fit all.

The higher the price point you are trying to achieve, the better and more complete your ad should be. People looking at spending $10,000+ are going to be turned off by having to e-mail the seller for pictures or better/some/any description of the car. As there are almost always comparable cars (no matter what you are trying to sell), there is almost always competition for the buyer’s dollar.

Pictures

Pictures, obviously, are a requirement and cellphone pictures should be avoided at all costs. A real picture is worth a thousand words and in the age of digital cameras, film is cheap. For even the most basic 510, consider this to be the minimum:

• Four exterior shots (front, sides, and rear), one trunk shot, one shot of the engine compartment, one picture of the front of the interior, one of the rear.

If you know of particular issues with the car (body damage and rust are the two biggies), make sure you take close-up pictures of those areas.

As you progress up the 510 value scale, the picture requirement goes up. This should be an easy task as most mid-range and high-end 510s have many special parts that you should be excited to feature. It’s one thing to list “CV axles” in your ad, but quite another to have a picture showing off a trick CV setup. Use pictures of fancy or rare parts to make your car standout from the rest. 510s are all about individualism, what makes your car unique?

Dyno Sheets

If you’ve got a 510 with a stockish L-series engine, a dyno sheet is probably superfluous. We all know what an L18 with SUs will feel like on the butt dyno and what it’ll do on a real dyno. But what about a 510 with an engine swap? If you have a VG running a carb, or a SR fed by SUs, or a SR20DET with a Disco Potato and big-time boost, a dyno sheet is the perfect tool to secure that sale. Proof that your “165HP” L20B Frankengine is actually putting out 165HP is critical. Proof that your SU-fed SR puts out better than stock-EFI-power may just convince the skeptical that you knew what you were doing when you built that crazy creation. Big power requires big proof. Anyone can claim 200HP from a VG – are you able to prove it?

Words, The Final Frontier

How interesting is the ingredients listing for your favorite food? Now, describe how it tastes and smells. Do you see the difference? Whatever you do, don’t just regurgitate a list of parts you used to build your car. Sure, these parts may be trick and/or expensive, but a list of parts does not a cool car make.

The object of your description is not to rely on a list of parts, but to craft an essay about your car. Sell your car to the buyer, make the buyer WANT your 510.

Also keep in mind the suggestions The 510 Realm has put forth for those looking for a 510:
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=10023

How does your ad answer those common questions?

Help From The Realm

So all this is fine and dandy, but what if you don’t have a digicam, don’t have a place to host photos, can’t write that killer ad, or don’t have any idea what your car is worth? The 510 Realm is populated by people with, collectively, a couple millennia of experience with 510s, buying, building, and selling.

If you don’t have a decent-quality digicam, ask for help from someone in your area.
If you don’t have a place to host pictures, http://www.datsun510.com has a free hosting feature, and to-date it isn’t blocked by companies as Flickr, Photobucket, and the like increasingly are.
If you can’t write, post a request to work with someone from The Realm. There are more than a few member wordsmiths.
If you don’t have an accurate pricing methodology, or you’re just too wrapped up in your car to be objective, post up your information and ask for a pricing guideline.

Just remember to take all the comments you receive as they are intended. Often comments will be made in a Classified Forum ad that are taken as personal attacks but are only meant as constructive criticism. It should be pretty clear from the get-go how they are meant, but often when the seller sticks a too-high price, any comments regarding that too-high price are taken personally. It’s not personal, it’s just business.
Last edited by okayfine on 07 Jan 2010 07:52, edited 1 time in total.
Because when you spend a silly amount of money on a silly, trivial thing that will help you not one jot, you are demonstrating that you have a soul and a heart and that you are the sort of person who has no time for Which? magazine. – Jeremy Clarkson

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okayfine
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An Example Of The Above

Post by okayfine » 15 Dec 2009 19:45

The following is the ad I wrote when I sold my blue KA510. Just reading it again makes me want to buy that car back!

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1969 Datsun 510 Two-Door - Resto-Mod with KA24DE power.
• Light weight.
• Rear-wheel-drive.
• Classic styling.
• Impressive power-to-weight ratio.

If these are the components of your ideal car, my 1969 Datsun 510 two-door is right up your alley – win the auction and it will be IN your driveway. This is a daily-driver 510, rebuilt from the ground up after years of body and paint work. While it appears to be a reasonably-stock example at first glance, this Datsun 510 has had a number of important upgrades to every aspect of the car, from the drivetrain to the suspension to the interior.

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Exterior

The rundown starts from the outside in. The body is straight, period. No rust, period. These are important points, as rust is a 510 killer and all the paint in the world won't cover up dinged sheet metal. Painted 1995 Porsche Rivera Blue, it's a solid color (not metallic) and it looks fantastic. The paint has a few chips due to daily driving; it is otherwise solid and in good condition. Always garaged, washed, and waxed. Never driven in the rain.

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The body is nearly stock, except for a period-correct BRE "spook." No flaires, no wings, no body kits. The Datsun 510 doesn't need no body kits. The car is currently sporting only a rear bumper (and a cut-down Toyota Corona bumper at that) however I have a pair of 510 bumpers that will go with the car. 1969 is my favorite 510 model year due to the side marker design and position – much better looking than the later '70-'73 rectangular side markers. Not to mention metal pillar vents. All the stainless trim is in place and in great condition.

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"Bluebird" badges are featured on the fenders. The rear 1969 "D-A-T-S-U-N" badge has been replaced with a unique "B-L-U-E-B-I-R-D" badge. The rear "510" badge has been replaced with a rare "Deluxe" badge. Continuing the rare-trim treatment, a 1968 grill, in excellent condition with no dings or bends, adorns the front of the car. The car is currently registered (of course) and retains its yellow-on-black California license plate.

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Additional considerations - Windshield wipers are present and functional with a recently-rebuilt wiper motor. All lights and sidemarkers work. The low-beam head lamp buckets have been upgraded to H4 bulbs, with the appropriate relayed wire harness. The weedy stock horn has been replaced by a pair of Hella Supertones, also wired via an individual relay. Loud horns save lives.

2190 pounds, split 54% on the front axle, 46% on the rear axle.

Drivetrain

What good is a daily-driver-ready body without a daily-driver-ready engine? Forget 40-year-old carb'ed L-series mills, this 510 features a transplanted 1995 KA24DE, 2.4 liters displacement, double overhead cams, electronic fuel injection and electronic ignition. Everything is controlled by the factory ECU, including the fuel pump circuit and a thermostatically-controlled electronic fan – no cheesy individual switches inside the cabin to flip or forget. The "S" blade fan cools a two-row Griffin all-aluminum radiator – cooling is of no concern.

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The stock KA24DE (transplanted from an automatic 240sx, so it has seen little abuse) has been augmented with Shadbolt cams (not quite 'wild' but not quite 'mild'), a 2.5" mandrel-bent exhaust system with V-Band clamps at the header, mid-pipe, and rear sections for easy removal. This KA also features a one-of-a-kind 'Stainless Snakes' exhaust header, a long-primary/short-secondary Tri-Y header made from 1.625" 304 stainless primaries, merge-collectors, 1.750" 304 secondaries, and merge collectors into a 2.5" pipe. The car positively sings.

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The engine was mounted on custom engine mounts and stock Datsun isolators. The engine is set lower in the engine bay than most KA swaps, improving center-of-gravity measurements (and, hence, handling). This KA was dyno'ed at 145HP to the rear wheels when it was stock. I have no dyno'ed the car since the installation of the cams and header. The healthy KA feeds a stock KA 5-speed equipped with a short shifter back to a Subaru LSD. Both the transmission and differential are filled with Redline synthetic lube, and the rear diff has been treated to the recommended amount of GM LSD additive.

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Zero reliability issues. EFI, of course, so the engine starts and stops with the turn of a key, no praying, no clutch-kill. It also handles weather and elevation changes without issue.

30 miles per gallon on 87 octane. ~3100 rpm at 75 mph in 5th gear.

Suspension/Brakes

Doubling the stock horsepower requires other modifications to the rest of the chassis in order to keep the rubber on the road. This car has, of course, been outfitted with the best components.

The front end features 280ZX struts with Ground Control coilovers. Carrera 9" springs rated at 180 lb/in hold up the front, dampened by 5-way adjustable Tokico strut inserts. The top hats of the coilovers are T3's pieces, with the integrated needle bearings. Cusco camber plates allow for camber adjustment at will, and the strut towers are tied together with the OE Datsun Comp "Mulsanne" strut bar. The T/C rods have received an Experimental Engineering T/C kit, more stable than stock, more pliant than Delrin – with no maintenance hassles. The steering has been strengthened by a MadDat steering box plate and urethane bushings in the idler arm. No-slop steering and no wavering or tramlining are the result. Front TMC sway bar and poly links.

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1984 300Z hubs are bolted on to the 280ZX struts to return the track width to near stock after the 280ZX strut conversion. This has allowed 11" front vented brake rotors to be fitted, clamped by four-piston Wilwood forged calipers and Porterfield RS4 pads. Fluid is fed by the expected stainless lines. The wheels are filled with brake rotor!
The rear end has not been ignored either, with a Penultimate adjustable rear crossmember supported by Savage washers. Cut Roadster Comp springs suspend the rear of the car, resulting in a calculated 175 lb/in rate. Tokico 5-way adjustable rear shocks damp the bumps. Rear TMC sway bar with poly end links.

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Rear brakes have also been upgraded (as you would hope). 200sx rotors, Z31 rear calipers, stainless lines, and Porterfield pads. The parking brake is functional.

Wheels

Genuine 14x6 Watanabes, staggered-look in the rear. Watanabe lugs. Yoko ES100 tread with 75%+ remaining. This setup preserves the "Dance Of The Dime" 510s are known for, all the handling you want (which gets killed with the addition of heavy, wide wheels and tires). Car is set up very neutral.

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Interior

The interior of this car is as unique as the rest of the build. Recaro Sport seats (in fabric and Alcantara) in front are very comfortable and supportive during hard driving, they're also Recaros so you know they're safe. Safety continues with the more modern retractable seat belts (you've seen the hard, inflexible OE belts, you know what I'm talking about) bolted to the Autopower 4-point roll bar with diagonal brace and harness bar. A Schroth racing harness is also included.

Sitting securely in the Recaro, you're faced with Alcantara all around you – the headliner, rear package shelf, and dash pad are covered in Alcantara. The steering wheel is a suede MOMO with a "Datsun" horn button. The flat '69 instrument cluster has been replaced by a custom panel fitted with Autometer Sport Comp gauges – mechanical oil pressure and water temp, electric tachometer and speedometer with LCD trip/ODO. The radio has been removed and replaced with a DIN cubby with hinged lid. An Optima red-top battery is securely bolted to the floor behind the passenger's Recaro; 12V+ fully isolated through the firewall. A Halon fire extinguisher is bolted in the passenger foot well.

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Interior trim is in good condition. Kick plates are in excellent condition. Z-car day-night rear view mirror has been installed. Dome light functions. Door weatherstripping replaced four years ago. Heater is functional.
All components have less than 10,000 miles on them since the car was reborn. The engine had 96,000 miles on it at the time of the transplant.

Extras

Included with this car are the aforementioned front and rear bumpers. Also included are:
Various metal body pieces (doors, hood, trunk, fenders, floorboard, front clip, rear clip) from a '69 two-door.
Various suspension pieces (front/rear crossmembers, front/rear suspension arms, half shafts)
Good windshield.
Extra KA24DE long block.
Extra KA 5-speed transmission.
KA24DE bolt-on low-pressure turbo kit. T25, log manifold, stainless down pipe and hot pipe, N60 MAF and S14 injectors. Bolt on 60 additional HP. The additional cooling is already in place, the exhaust is sized properly, the downpipe will bolt to the current mid-pipe.

Transaction Details

Winning bidder to pay $2000 dollars as a non-refundable deposit, within the 48 hours from the end of the auction. This initial deposit payment is to be made via Paypal. The remainder of the payment is to be sent via bank-drawn Cashier’s Check within 7 days of the end of the auction and sent via UPS/FedEx Express/Overnight. Paypal cannot be accepted for the outstanding payment balance. The buyer is to arrange for local pickup, there is no delivery of the car and extras by the seller. Car is located in Thousand Oaks, CA and can be driven home. Car is sold "AS IS" No warranty. Please feel free to ask any questions. Will try to respond same day. I have represented this car to the best of my knowledge.
Because when you spend a silly amount of money on a silly, trivial thing that will help you not one jot, you are demonstrating that you have a soul and a heart and that you are the sort of person who has no time for Which? magazine. – Jeremy Clarkson

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bertvorgon
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Re: How To Sell Your Car

Post by bertvorgon » 15 Dec 2009 19:51

Excellent write up Julian, that should go with your previous guide!
"Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty" - Peter Egan

Keith Law
1973 2Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
1968 Vintage 3HP Mini Bike
1971 Vintage 13' BOLER trailer

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Re: How To Sell Your Car

Post by qwik510 » 15 Dec 2009 19:52

Great Thread!

Here is one I sold in January.

According to the people I bought it from and the documentation that came with the car, it was owned by a nice older lady since it was brand new, from 1971 until 2007. In 2007 she donated it to a vocational school. The school repainted it the original color and sold it to the people I bought it from. They put about 8000 miles on it over the 16 months they owned it and they took good care of it and enjoyed it until they decided to sell it.

It is a nice original, unmolested wagon. It has an auto trans with the shifter on the column and it is in original, stock unmolested condition. It has 109,000 miles on it.. The first owner didn't drive it much at all. A few miles to town each week to do her shopping. It spent its entire life in South Carolina. (almost never snows there and it is inland away from the coast)

It is so nice. I can honestly say that it is 99% rust free. I can't find any rust on it except for very minor surface rust spots in a few of the small paint chips (hardly visible). The body is super straight and all the panels and door gaps line up nicely. The floors look like new. All the trim is there and in great shape. The interior is very clean except for the drivers seat and some fading of the carpeting. All the lights, signals, gauges, etc. work properly. Even the wipers move at a respectable speed. The door panels and rear side panels are clean and uncut. All the interior panels and dash parts are clean. No fading. The color of the dash and panels is deep dark and rich. The passenger seat, back seat and rear cargo areas look like they were not used much at all. It drives great and shifts smooth and seems very reliable. It came with all of the original owners manuals and warranty books and even the owners log of gas mileage.

I took it up to my friend Vince's Shop on Wednesday and we put it up on the lift. It is as clean on the bottom as it is everywhere else. I forgot to take my camera with me so I didn't get any pics. D'oh!

I went all through the car and I took a bunch of pictures (100 Pics) and posted them here:

http://datsun510.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=3576

http://tinyurl.com/9ouv2w

Here are just a few.

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I really like this car. It is one of those very rare finds. As much as I like and want to keep it, I can't. I have too many projects going on and not enough time, money or indoor storage space.

So I have decided to pass this one along to another 510 lover. If you know of anyone looking for a super clean, unmolested original wagon, let them know about this one. This is one of the cleanest 510 wagons I have seen.

Someone will be very happy with this one.

Offered at $6500 or best offer.

Serious inquiries only.
Enjoy The Ride!
David
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Re: How To Sell Your Car

Post by qwik510 » 15 Dec 2009 19:54

Here is another one I did in the spring for Lou.





Up for sale is a 1969 Datsun 510 4 door. I am helping my friend (Lou) sell it as I have more time to respond to emails and questions. All info is from the owner, Lou.

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The car is from Fall River, Massachusetts. The original owner bought it new but didn't drive it much due to her age. She passed away and her son took the car but he was too large to drive it comfortably so he sold it to Lou. Lou currently has a sweet 2 door 510 and is a 510 lover and was a Datsun Mechanic in the 1970s. He knows 510s.

This car is extremely nice and well-preserved car is in its original stock condition. It has an automatic transmission and a factory vinyl top. The mileage is 139,000 miles and it has been well cared for and garaged and properly maintained its entire life.

See All the pictures in supersize here:

http://datsun510.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=3615

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The body is very straight with no dents. There are a few scratches but this is typical for age of the repaint. It was repainted about 12 years ago in a nicer, brighter color than the original.


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It drives and rides very nice and handles well for a stocker with a very positive feel in steering. It is very solid. Everything works on the car with the exception of the 70's style auto alarm that was installed.

No rust issues
No mechanical issues
New brakes all around
New tires all around
New front Muholland shocks
New rear wheel bearings
Comes with auto trans fluid change kit
The only non stock modification is that the wiring to the alternator was modified for the installation of an internally regulated alternator. A 60amp alternator from a 1982 Datsun 280ZX has been installed.

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The car is being sold because it is not being used. Lou bought the car for his wife to drive it but it just sits in the garage longing for someone to take it out and enjoy the ride.


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This is a solid car that deserves to be kept in stock condition. However, it would also be an excellent starting point for a nice project.

It is being offer at $5500 or best serious cash offer. No tire kickers,
low-ballers or scammers please.

The car is currently in New Hampshire. We have a great transport company that can bring it to you at your expense.

Don’t miss out on this sweet 510. Cars in this condition don’t come along too often, especially on the east coast.

Email qwik510@aol.com for more info.
Enjoy The Ride!
David
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KaipoDa510
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Re: How To Sell Your Car

Post by KaipoDa510 » 17 Jan 2010 19:43

That was a nice write up David. especially the one with my car, the one I bought from Lou.
Here is where it is now..... in Canada. I named it Kaipo.

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There is no feeling like driving a Datsun!!

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Re: How To Sell Your Car

Post by 70DIMER » 12 Jan 2011 15:50

Just thougth I'd add my previous ad write up links to add to the excellent list of examples of how to give more than enough information when selling a car.
Granted these cars aren't Datsuns (I haven't had to post any ads to sell them), but like the ads above, they're descriptive, and I figure if a picture is worth a thousand words, why not show every angle so the perspective buyer doesn't have to waste your time asking dumb questions, plus if tell them what's bad about the car in brutal honesty and show them pictures, and they're still intersted, they can't lowball you once they get there and say "well I didn't know (insert reason here) needed fixing, how about $$$$ off the price?"...when they have told me that I tell them I was upfront in my ad so they can't expect me to bend that much on it. So far it's worked out great in that each of these three examples, I've sold my car for full asking price.


Here's the links:
Starlet: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showt ... ?p=2608386

1991 CRX HF: http://www.gassavers.org/showthread.php?t=5338

1991 CRX HF: http://hondaswap.com/vehicles-sale-trad ... cs-203334/

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okayfine
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Re: How To Sell Your Car

Post by okayfine » 12 Jan 2011 16:01

This thread would be more informative if my and David's pictures were still alive. Thanks for including some more links to great ads.
khan copy.jpg
khan copy.jpg (75.57 KiB) Viewed 10425 times
Because when you spend a silly amount of money on a silly, trivial thing that will help you not one jot, you are demonstrating that you have a soul and a heart and that you are the sort of person who has no time for Which? magazine. – Jeremy Clarkson

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Re: How To Sell Your Car

Post by Byron510 » 12 Jan 2011 23:03

Kahhhhhnnn!
Only because I watched the movie over the Christmas holidays on Space while recovering from the flu....:D Nice!
Love people and use things,
because the opposite never works.

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