Heater Core??

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WagonsRule!
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Joined: 12 Jan 2004 21:37
Location: Portland, OR

Heater Core??

Post by WagonsRule! » 12 Jan 2004 22:00

What would one run me if someone were to sell me one that works?? Can they be rotted (sp?) out like radiators?? This is the 2nd winter season I have had no heat so it's going to be fixed by next winter. I haven't gotten into the removal of it so I don't know what other parts I may need along with the core.

Thanks all!!
Keith

It's a 69, btw.

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D510
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Joined: 26 Jun 2003 18:56
Location: Coquitlam, BC, Canada

Post by D510 » 12 Jan 2004 22:51

i'll sell you one of mine. dont know if it works. if it doesnt i can give you your money back.
-1988 Red Jaguar Solvereign, Cold Airintake, Exhaust, Tint, Alpine Sound System.
-1972 Black 2dr Datsun 510, slammed with Built L20B

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///FiveOneOh
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Post by ///FiveOneOh » 13 Jan 2004 03:02

Check the valve on the heater. it may be stuck in the closed possition (even if the switch moves) core could also just be plugged. if the valve works try flusing the one you have now.
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Boaty
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Post by Boaty » 14 Jan 2004 16:58

YES, I can second what //FiveOnOh says. Mine was stuck in the off position, as well the cable had broken off inside it's sheath (Sounds kinky, eh?) anyways, I replaced the cable in my own humble way, and it works fine, 'cept for you can't push the lever overall the way, but it's still open 100%.

Corrosion from old antifreeze caused mine to sieze up, and in doing so with force, the cable broke (Bending, bending bending, broke.)

For what it's worth, you can get the heater cores cleaned out (rotted? Sp?), cleaned, or what have you. Take it in to your radiator specialist, let him know what you want done and he could most likely do it.

But before you spend a gob of money on something that extensive and expensive, try getting the valve to work. If it leaks (like mine) use an aluminum shavings stop-leak, and MAKE SURE THE COOLANT IS HOT OR YOU WILL CLOG STUFF UP!

Another thing you may check is make sure all the hoses are in good order, not anneurhised or "bubbling", and make sure the clamps are on good and tight. Keep in mind my heater didn't work at all, and the problem was the cable being broken, and it wasn't even near the heater... it was right behind the lever! So rip it apart and have a look-see.

Also, somebody chime in, but if your heater core isn't functioning correctly, if you have the lever in the "open" position, won't your coolant be blocked and not flowing? Wasn't there something the hot-rodders used back in the "day" to bypass the heater if it became clogged, so it'd just recirc to the other side of the motor? Just a wonderin'!

--"my heater cooks me out of the car... didn't need cleaned"
Steve Boatman
Grants Pass, OR
1971 510 2DR | KA24DE

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WagonsRule!
Posts: 23
Joined: 12 Jan 2004 21:37
Location: Portland, OR

Post by WagonsRule! » 15 Jan 2004 19:11

artika wrote:YES, I can second what //FiveOnOh says. Mine was stuck in the off position, as well the cable had broken off inside it's sheath (Sounds kinky, eh?) anyways, I replaced the cable in my own humble way, and it works fine, 'cept for you can't push the lever overall the way, but it's still open 100%.

Corrosion from old antifreeze caused mine to sieze up, and in doing so with force, the cable broke (Bending, bending bending, broke.)

For what it's worth, you can get the heater cores cleaned out (rotted? Sp?), cleaned, or what have you. Take it in to your radiator specialist, let him know what you want done and he could most likely do it.

But before you spend a gob of money on something that extensive and expensive, try getting the valve to work. If it leaks (like mine) use an aluminum shavings stop-leak, and MAKE SURE THE COOLANT IS HOT OR YOU WILL CLOG STUFF UP!

Another thing you may check is make sure all the hoses are in good order, not anneurhised or "bubbling", and make sure the clamps are on good and tight. Keep in mind my heater didn't work at all, and the problem was the cable being broken, and it wasn't even near the heater... it was right behind the lever! So rip it apart and have a look-see.

Also, somebody chime in, but if your heater core isn't functioning correctly, if you have the lever in the "open" position, won't your coolant be blocked and not flowing? Wasn't there something the hot-rodders used back in the "day" to bypass the heater if it became clogged, so it'd just recirc to the other side of the motor? Just a wonderin'!

--"my heater cooks me out of the car... didn't need cleaned"
I will try that! I just have to wait for a dry day!!

Thanks!!
Goonies Never Say Die!

June 4-5, 2005 Goonies 20 Year Anniversary Fan Get together Astoria, OR

http://www.thegoonies.org/BB/viewforum. ... e19e8dbc2c

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///FiveOneOh
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Post by ///FiveOneOh » 15 Jan 2004 19:44

no stop leak! bad bad bad bad stuff
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dirtmagnit

Post by dirtmagnit » 23 Jan 2004 09:55

My local radiator guy says he can get the 240z cores new still, which are the same size. Cut/ cap off old nipples on it and relocate to where you need them(they had 3 or 4 changes throughout the 68-73 run) would cost you all of $100-$125.
Pretty cheap for winter heat if you ask me. This is NEW. How many here have spent 20 minutes letting the brown stuff come out of the core just trying to get some flow???

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