Halfway home and stuck won't run! IT LIVES!

[datzenmike]

The distributor will only go in, in one position and that depends on if the distributor drive spindle is in correctly. If you look down the hole you will see a slot like for a screw driver blade. You will notice that it isn't exactly centered but is slightly off to one side. The distributor can only fit it in the one position. Don't worry about it.

A good quality hg with block/head surface and bolt threads and threaded holes squeaky clean is all you need. Wipe the threads with an oily rag and torque in proper sequence to 1/3 then in sequence to 2/3 and in sequence to final full torque of 60 ft lbs for L20B. Aluminum or copper paint isn't needed if you have done a good job. The factory doesn't use it and that's good enough for me. You could use it if you have high compression or run a turbo but good luck getting it apart if you blow a gasket.

[goatee]

Thanks MIke! I'll try to button it all up this afternoon then!

[Byron510]

When you helicoil, just be careful not to drill into the water jacket in that bottom of that hole...don't ask me how I know .
You don't need the next bigger size, just get a helicoil of the same pitch and thread as the bolt and oversize the hole for the helicoil.

Were you able to save that head?

Fortunately yes. A mixture of JB Weld and steel wool pushed into the hole patched it well, never had a problem with it after that.

Yep, you have about 2mm worth of aluminum in the head below the LH rear valve cover bolt hole!

Now how would I also know this!!!

I’ve also been there, thinking I was fixing a problem. In the end, I did not save that head. Thankfully it was a stock 210 head that didn’t have anything special in it. C’est la vie! You see, internet experts never really know things like this, only guys who’ve actually worked on cars find out these things! When guys make comments like this, you know they’ve been around for a while.

Goatee, I sure hope you finally get to drive your car. Your continuing story is one that would have made many first time owners throw in the towel long ago! You mentioned that the head gasket is on, but not torqued. I don’t want to scare you or anything, but if there is a tiny drop of oil anywhere in that head, is it possible that it may have leaked down between the head gasket surface and the block at any point – seeping in between the two parts? In my mind it is almost inevitable, and if the head gasket is not torqued down yet, then the contamination (oil) in between the two surfaces will cause a future failure… I hate to point this out now, but better now than later, since everything is still apart. The cost of a head gasket is relatively low, and any oil on the gasket itself is not good.

I really want this to work for you – you’ve been through too much already!

Byron

[goatee]

Your continuing story is one that would have made many first time owners throw in the towel long ago!

lol well hopefully that means I can keep asking questions! On the oil on the head I THINK I'm good though I wish I would have looked at this last night because that's when I did torque it. The guy washed the head like crazy when it was at his shop because he didn't want to get his machine dirty so I think it'll be ok.

What I couldn't get done last night was I cannot get the motor back on the passenger side motor mount after jacking it up for the oil pan. I borrowed a bigger bar from a buddy to see if I can wiggle it over but any other tricks would be helpful. I'm not sure if it's this amount of twist (the engine is about 1.5 inches higher on that side currently) or what but I couldn't get the headers bolted on last night. They are something someone rigged up at some point, don't look too hideous but the intake/exhaust bolts are really hard to get too. I bought some more bolts today including a couple that are a bit longer to see if I can get it done. Also the exhaust is fresh so I may unbolt the piping down there so the headers aren't being tugged on. After all that I'll turn the motor a few times by hand to make sure nothing is binding up and then crank away!
*crosses fingers*

[defdes]

Which motor mount, to the block or to the X member? Either way loosen everything up (both sides all points). If it's the X member mount, get an awl and sick it into one of the holes and use leverage to line one up. Continue in this way for the next ones. If it's to the block, it will just require loosening the other side and raising and lowering the motor with the hoist (or jack) until you are lined up. Good luck, you are close!

[hang_510]

the intake/exhaust bolts are really hard to get too.

L O N G extension and swivel

Which motor mount,

get an awl and sick it into one of the holes and use leverage to line one up. Continue in this way for the next ones.

Good luck, you are close!

w/non stock MM i couldnt even do this.

w/OEM MM its excatly what i have to do.

[goatee]

Thanks for those suggestions. It's the motor mounts to the block. I was looking at it real quick at lunch and I think I"ll have to borrow another jack. The only safe place to jack at the time while working on the oil pan seemed to be on the mount for the alternator which effectively only lifted the one side of the motor. I'll get another jack and do both sides surely I'll get it then. I also thought maybe I could get it running and jump rail road tracks until it just falls into place!

only kidding.

[goatee]

Ok short version it's running but sounds like a tractor, I have a buddy coming to help me time/figure it tomorrow.

Long version. I jacked and pried and pulled and sweated but could not get the motor back on the mount. I finally undid one of the bolts to the mount on the frame so I could swivel it around a bit. Between this and some luck I got it back on. Put the exhaust back on, it was much easier to fit after the mount Tried to start the motor after checking to make sure nothing was bound, turned the key on, all gauges lit up, turned it over to start......nothing. No click nothing. I have a hot myster wire from the coil to the fuse block I have yet to totally figure out, I put it in a couple different spots still nada. After about 10 minutes of dorking around I found out I disconnected the hot to the starter at some point while messing with the motor mount I assume. Put that back and the engine turned over. I tired several times but it wouldn't fire. I undid the fuel line and crank a few more times, gas finally came out but not hard at all. Hmnm, I wonder if I got the fuel pump arm wedged in funny or something I wondered. I take the valve cover back off and the cam sprocket bolt is just handing on by a thread. Lucikly I got it without it falling in or it would have been start over time. Tighten that down, gas squirts like a maniac, right on. Crank it a few times and it fires, sputters etc. Eventually it does start and sounds like a tractor, i put the timing light on it but it sucks and I couldn't really tell anything. I wonder if maybe the dizzy is spun a extra half turn on the oil pump shaft? I read about this area in the manual a couple times and am still not 100 percent clear.
So anyway I await thoughts and his visit tomorrow.
Slo close!

[James]

You should check the torque on that cam bolt - if the sprocket comes off - you will be replacing valves and get to do this all over again (learned that one the hard way). I would have some loc-tite on that too.
My guess is the distributor is 180 deg. off or you have the plug wires misplaced. It sounds as if it is running on two cylinders (hence the tractor like running) If you look at the manual. the drive gear for the distributor needs to go in a particular way. The small side (half round part of the drive) has to face the front or the rear (can't remember - but there is a right way).
You can test this by getting it to start and pulling the plug wires one by one to see which cylinders are not firing. If you find that two are not firing - swap those two on the distributor cap and see what happens.....

[goatee]

Ok, I'll double check that also. What is the torque for that bolt? I looked last night in my book and seemed like they had a torque for everything down to the oil pan but that one says "snug the bolt". I do know that I had "I want to fire this up right now" fever so I could definitely have missed it. I thought about bringing the manul to work and just reread that whole section but I doubt the boss would find it that helpful.

Couple pics since threads without pics are boring. heh heh

My lovely work area (read trip and where's my tool fest) and my garage and car.

[James]

Check here for good info -
http://www.olddatsuns.com/620tech4.htm
Truck site - but L-series specs.....
87-116 lbs

[goatee]

Thanks James! Thought I had already found most sites, never been there though I don't think. 87 pounds wow! I doubt I'm up that high. I'll be sure and do that!

[James]

You can run a 3/8" extension through the holes in the sprocket to jam against the bearing behind - doesn't put any strain on the chain or cam shaft itself.

[Byron510]

Crank and cam bolts - torque 100 - 110 ft/lbs in case you didn't find it. Also make absolutely sure you have both the lock washer and pump eccentric (or similarly thick washer if this part is omitted) behind the cam bolt, otherwise the bolt will bottom out in the cam and the sprocket will be loose - failure imminent!

Byron

[goatee]

Thanks Byron great info as always everyone. I do have both the lock washer and eccentric I just osmehow managed to not tighten them the first time! Lucky me at least they didn't come off and I thought about it before cranking too many more times.
I did see the Crankchaft pulley bolts 87 - 116 (100) no way mine is that tight yet.