Timing chain too loose

[defdes]

By about 4cm.

When you installed the slack side guide did you push it as far over to the right against the chain as you could?

This is KEY! When I was playing with cam timing last week, I didn't do this once and had a mean rattle on start up. Had to dial it into TDC again, pull the sprocket and re install.

[Jimmer84]

ill try that. hopefully that will eliminate the rattle, but the cam will still be slightly retarded. maybe ill just try it and see what happens.

[datzenmike]

[img]http://i138.photobucket.com/albums ... .jpg[/img]
Be sure the curved guide on the left in this picture is pushed over as far to the right as you can get it before tightening down the mounting bolts. Then install tensioner. This will remove the most slack and the chain will be riding against and supported by the guide and won't rattle.

[Jimmer84]

we did that,and added some more cam spacers, and it seems better. the notch and the groove are only very slightly misaligned. the chain seems tighter now too, but now we have to get different lash pads to get the cam wipe pattern in the right place.still, does anybody know how much you can shim the cam up?

[defdes]

Racers deck their heads 100/thou.... so almost that much.

[Jimmer84]

where can you find these thicker shims? we have 6 .015" thick shims and it is a bear to line them all up and get the cam towers on.

[defdes]

Dude, there's this thing called google....and it's totally awesome!!!
http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/10-1151

[Jimmer84]

I was looking for thicker than .015" shims. you said that they mill the head up to .100", so I was wondering if they just stack the .015" shims to get to that height, or someone out there makes thicker shims.

[defdes]

I was looking for thicker than .015" shims. you said that they mill the head up to .100", so I was wondering if they just stack the .015" shims to get to that height, or someone out there makes thicker shims.

Is says right there on the link "not to stack more than 3 sets, less is better.."
Just because a head is milled 100/thou doesn't mean it needs to be shimmed 100/thou.

[banzai510(hainz)]

go to silverseal.com it is like page 56 in their> catalog. Part# 0591000. I called them and they said they had> a lot of the head saver shim kits, $8.10 per/kit. Silver> Seal- phone 800 521 2936 part# 059-1000.

[Baz]

We never use head saver shims unless the top face of the head has been machined.
Not the way to get slack from the chain.
When fitting chains the tensioner should not protrude any more than 020" when turning in direction of rotation.
No protrusion is best.
This most important to stop the cam timing from retarding at higher RPM
and putting an exhaust valve thro a piston.
the curved guide can be slotted to get more adjustment.
When block & head have been excessivly machined, drill & tap a new thread in the block & mod the curve in the guide to suit.
Forget setting the notch to the left as its not accurate.
with the notch lined up as in sighting a gun, then std L16/18 cam will indicate 2 degree BTDC
L20B 6 BTDC. Assuming you have set tdc mark correctly.
The dowel holes vary the valve timing by 4 degrees.
1 link is 18 degrees.
modified cams must be dialed in .

these are now back in stock
http://datsport.com/Adjustable_timing_chain_set.html
as the Oz dollar is down ( at the moment) these will be about US$175 plus postage.