Base Line [Race Car] Suspension Settings

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Base Line [Race Car] Suspension Settings

Post by Schroeder6th » 25 Apr 2009 04:51

Need some help finding Base Line "Race" Suspension Set Up Information.
1971 510
205-60x13 Toyo Proxes RA1 Front and Rear
190 lb Driver
Fully Adjustable Suspension Front & Rear.
Looking For Castor, Camber & Tow.
Thanks in Advance.
Doc Hudson

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Re: Base Line [Race Car] Suspension Settings

Post by bertvorgon » 25 Apr 2009 05:59

For the front, I would maybe start with:

Castor 5.5 degrees
camber 1.5 degrees to 2 degrees NEGATIVE
Toe maybe 1/16" toe IN


camber 1.5 to 2 degrees NEGATIVE
toe 1/4 to 1/2 ' toe IN

Your spring rate and sway bar thickness, will of course determine a lot, as the car rolls through the turn(s), as to how the camber is. Tire pressure, you should say start at 30 PSI and go from there. I tend to run softer tire pressures as i like to feel the tire, and make it work a bit harder also. Put a bit of white shoe polish on 4 quadrants, and the side wall, where the tread rolls off, that will give you some indication how things are doing.

The castor is a proven setting that most of us run here. You did not say what type of racing, but, if you are doing Solo, even more castor in a 510 is a wonderful thing. You just need a strong upper body on tight courses. The increased castor induces more negative camber in tight corners.

FRONT Toe will affect to an extent, how the car turns in. If it seems sluggish, try some toe OUT. I run zero toe myself.

We have had a zillion discussions on the REAR of a 510, do some searching, but, getting the 510 rear to NOT come around on you, is the key to a fast car (one of them). This is where the rear TOE IN setting really comes into play. I personally run 1/2" rear toe in. Again, depending on spring rate and anti roll bar size(s), you want to be able to get OUT of the throttle, and even on the the turn in point, or in the corner...and NOT have the rear end want to come around on you. In a 510, this is called trailing throttle oversteer. Your car should be set up ( depending on driver preference of course), so that you can steer the car with the throttle. I have never been a hero with high speed oversteer, so mine is set up with slight terminal understeer. Again, it depends on what type of racing. Solo is slow, so you can with stand a bit of over steer, again depending on the total packages set up. We all tend to have quite torqey motors, so throttle induced oversteer is quite easy.

Make sure your steering box is set up as tight as you can get it, as it will effect steering inputs, and the percieved feel of where the wheel is.

If you are doing Solo stuff, run as soft a brake pad as you can, as you want to be able to "snub" the brakes hard, and actually get the car slowed down in a very quick moment, helping to turn the car in.

Non of us here run rear anti roll bars. Primarily as our proven setting runs 300# springs up front, 1200# in the rear, with a 1 1/8" front bar. This combo gives a pretty balanced car, in terms of over/under steer, letting the throttle do the work. I only mention that as a guide only, depends on how your car handles corners. My experience, because of rear toe issues, has led me to pitch the rear bar.

If your shocks are adjustable, try them in the softer or middle mode first, because, if the shock is too stiff, it will mask what some of the other settings are trying to do, specially in fast, transient stuff.

Hope that helps some, good luck...change only one thing at a time!
"Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty" - Peter Egan

Keith Law
1973 2Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
1968 Vintage 3HP Mini Bike
1971 Vintage 13' BOLER trailer

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Location: Topeka, KS

Re: Base Line [Race Car] Suspension Settings

Post by 510rcr » 25 Sep 2009 04:50

I used to run stiffer but prefer the softer setup for less of what I call chaffing or skipping across corners. Also run different toes.
With dot tires (ITC) I run about 200 or 225 in front (age can't remember) & cut roadster front springs in the rear. Not sure what the rears ended up at as they get stiffer when cut & shorter but they are a heck of a lot softer than cut 1000 lb rears I had as the roadsters start in the 800 range.

FT 2.25 neg camber, castor as set by DP products laid back camber plates & 1/4 to 1/2" Toe out. Toe out really helps the turn in responce. Took me a few years to try it but should of done it long ago. DP products tubular bar in front.

RR 1.0 neg & zero toe ( camber increases as you load in corner so that's a function of your spring rate in the big picture. As I recall toe also in increases in the rear as you load also? No rear bar.

*do all of above with 190 lbs in drivers seat - I use old bar bell weights & put a few in the floor of drivers well to try to mimick my distribution

Really it all depends on your driving style and how you are most comfortable at & beyond the "pucker point" in high speed corners. As Randy Probst was once quoted - that point is "where the Gods live", to me it is addictive.

Just my take - a million opinions out there. Just go play & have fun & experiment, as he said one thing at a time is best
Matt A.
Topeka, KS

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