Nissan EI Distributor Wierdness

[510Martinez]

If the ballast wires are reversed, is it possible that the module is getting it's power through the ballast instead of directly from the ign.? Transistors do weird things when power levels drop.

As mentioned above, can the ballast really be reversed? In any case, I'm not working with the EI dizzy/module at the moment. Jason Gray is sending me some EI bits he knows are good, and when they arrive I'll swap them in and see what happens.

It would seem that the coil - test above isn't doing what you guys think it should. Progress?

The ballast can't be reversed; it's just a resistor. But, the wires going to it and the coil/ignition can be easily. You have to find the two wires for the ignition. One is hot with the key on; the other is hot only with the key in the "start" position. The "start" wire goes straight to the module (or points) and coil. The "run" wire goes through the ballast.

I have seen it plenty of times where the two wires are accidently reversed. It's easy enough to check which is which by disconnecting the starter relay (so you don't crank the engine) and have an assistant turn the key forward (or by yourself with a test light in a spot you can observe while you turn the key).

lastly, yes, a weak coil can give a lot of weird issues. It would be cheap enough, but I just don't like throwing parts at a problem.

[510rob]

black/blue is the start position supply wire (bypasses the ballast resistor, connects straight to coil positive)

black/white is the run position supply wire (connectors to ballast resistor)

[okayfine]

The ballast can't be reversed; it's just a resistor. But, the wires going to it and the coil/ignition can be easily. You have to find the two wires for the ignition. One is hot with the key on; the other is hot only with the key in the "start" position. The "start" wire goes straight to the module (or points) and coil. The "run" wire goes through the ballast.

black/blue is the start position supply wire (bypasses the ballast resistor, connects straight to coil positive)

black/white is the run position supply wire (connectors to ballast resistor)

I only have the B/W wire running into the engine compartment. My ignition switch only has four prongs, and the black/blue wire is not connected to a prong at the ignition switch. The B/W wire is hot with key ON and key START.

I've found that I have a mixture of '68 wiring and '69 wiring in this car. Still, the car ran as described above with the L13.

I don't have another known-good coil. I can buy another "new" one, but that doesn't necessarily give me a good one.

[vgwagon]

I don't have another known-good coil. I can buy another "new" one, but that doesn't necessarily give me a good one.

Surely there is someone close to you that has a known good one you could test.

[datzenmike]

Any coil even an old chev or dodge would do for a test.

[510Martinez]

Humor me and run a fresh wire straight from from the battery to the coil + and see if anything different happens when you turn the key to start.

[datzenmike]

Humor me and run a fresh wire straight from from the battery to the coil + and see if anything different happens when you turn the key to start.

Good. Can't take anything for granted here.

[Byron510]

I only have the B/W wire running into the engine compartment. My ignition switch only has four prongs, and the black/blue wire is not connected to a prong at the ignition switch. The B/W wire is hot with key ON and key START.

I've found that I have a mixture of '68 wiring and '69 wiring in this car. Still, the car ran as described above with the L13.

I don't have another known-good coil. I can buy another "new" one, but that doesn't necessarily give me a good one.

This was the way all ‘68's were built - there was no ballast resistor, which was obviously a design fault. Most were converted to use a ballast resistor, but none came factory with them in ‘68.
Wow, I have been following this thread, and am shaking my head in frustration - and it's not even my car!
I wish you the best, and a speedy resolve to this issue!

Every ‘68 that I've owned was simply converted to match box EI ignition - never a problem. And the distributor doesn't care what motor it's on. I've always used Nissan coils, never had an issue for what it's worth.

Byron

[okayfine]

Humor me and run a fresh wire straight from from the battery to the coil + and see if anything different happens when you turn the key to start.

No change. I pulled battery voltage from the bulkhead connector on my firewall and ran it straight to the + terminal on the coil. Setting up the coil wire next to the strut nut, no spark.

[okayfine]

Any coil even an old chev or dodge would do for a test.

I was thinking of my neighbors, none of whom own a car that would have a coil I could use. Then I thought about my 510's garage mate, my wife's '70 Bug. I'll have to wait for her to go to work, but I can pull that coil for a quick test.

[hang_510]

i have a new coil and a few 'good' used avail...

Surely there is someone close to you that has a known good one you could test.

most are afraid of electrons

[okayfine]

I was thinking of my neighbors, none of whom own a car that would have a coil I could use. Then I thought about my 510's garage mate, my wife's '70 Bug. I'll have to wait for her to go to work, but I can pull that coil for a quick test.

No change.

[duke]

Crank fire ignition! The megajolt units are really affordable. That is the direction that I plan on going as I don't like the distributor that is on my KA. Another option would be to go to a pertronix unit or something similar. I'm really feeling for you Julian, it sucks having one little thing holding you back from having it on the road.

[James]

I keep watching this hoping for some happy revelation that you or someone else has had that explains it all. On some level I hope you get the EL Dist. thing figured out - as I don't like the unresolved mystery of it hanging there. I do, however understand the need to move on and come up with a workable solution (even if you do figure out original problem later).
It seems to me you should be able to bypass all of the wiring that you are dealing with and set up a simple circuit direct from the battery (provided you can't find out why the coil isn't working), and see if the points distributor works as you hope it will. If so - then you could work back eliminating wire issues one by one.
I think I would pulling my hair out and losing sleep as every step a new wrinkle evolves to cloud the issue you are trying to determine.....

[vgwagon]

I was thinking of my neighbors, none of whom own a car that would have a coil I could use. Then I thought about my 510's garage mate, my wife's '70 Bug. I'll have to wait for her to go to work, but I can pull that coil for a quick test.

No change.

Will the + side of the coil light up a test light when key on or crank?

A volt meter can't load the circuit and sometimes it'll show 12v+ but when you put a test light on it nothing happens, that means there is a problem in the feed circuit.

Try a test light to make sure you have real power to the + side of the coil.