engine stutter
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nickanddime
engine stutter
i have a 1972 2door 510.. i am learning how to set my weber 32/36 carbs. i have given the car a fresh tune up and oil change recently.. sometimes i get flutter or a faint stutter in high gear mainly 4th after 80mph. what other things do i need to check and adjust to get rid of the stutter and allow more free flowing power??? thanks
Check your air filter, it may be nasty.
Something else would be inproper spark plug gap, or bad points/condensers, or bad wires or even a bad distributor cap/rotor.
That'd be my guess.. maybe check all connections. Also, since it happens at a higher gear, where acceleration is slower and you can feel more stuff happening than you would during quick accelerations (1-3rd gears) - means there is more pressure and stress being put on the engine. So, you might check your coil as well. Is it performing good enough?
I have a similar problem in my 71 2-door. When I go to climb a hill, she usually has about 10x more misses than it would before. I was told that he spark plugs are of the incorrect heat range, since there is more pressure in the cylinder it's causing them to foul up quicker, and since it exceeds the correct heat range, they don't clean themselves correctly. The guy I talked to, said to upgrade my ignition and that'd help out quite a bit. He also said get a higher-powered coil, and that might help. A more doubtful case, buuuuuut....... never can tell.
I've noticed that these L-Series engines are rather sensitive when it comes down to power issues. A slight lack of power will reduce performance. Take this for example - when I have my bright lights on (100W Aircraft landing lights), you can feel the engine bog down just about as much as a crappy car would be affected by an air-conditioner going uphill! Really crappy performance. Turn them off and it perks right back up.
Run a continuity test (with a volt meter) on each wire, and see how they all check out. Also check the wire going from coil to distributor, and also check that your ignition wire is correctly placed on your starter. Mine was loose and not fully connected, and it caused a miss here and there. One time it even died. I put a new connector on it, and it works like new. ^_^
It's just he simple things that can make things all better!
Something else would be inproper spark plug gap, or bad points/condensers, or bad wires or even a bad distributor cap/rotor.
That'd be my guess.. maybe check all connections. Also, since it happens at a higher gear, where acceleration is slower and you can feel more stuff happening than you would during quick accelerations (1-3rd gears) - means there is more pressure and stress being put on the engine. So, you might check your coil as well. Is it performing good enough?
I have a similar problem in my 71 2-door. When I go to climb a hill, she usually has about 10x more misses than it would before. I was told that he spark plugs are of the incorrect heat range, since there is more pressure in the cylinder it's causing them to foul up quicker, and since it exceeds the correct heat range, they don't clean themselves correctly. The guy I talked to, said to upgrade my ignition and that'd help out quite a bit. He also said get a higher-powered coil, and that might help. A more doubtful case, buuuuuut....... never can tell.
I've noticed that these L-Series engines are rather sensitive when it comes down to power issues. A slight lack of power will reduce performance. Take this for example - when I have my bright lights on (100W Aircraft landing lights), you can feel the engine bog down just about as much as a crappy car would be affected by an air-conditioner going uphill! Really crappy performance. Turn them off and it perks right back up.
Run a continuity test (with a volt meter) on each wire, and see how they all check out. Also check the wire going from coil to distributor, and also check that your ignition wire is correctly placed on your starter. Mine was loose and not fully connected, and it caused a miss here and there. One time it even died. I put a new connector on it, and it works like new. ^_^
It's just he simple things that can make things all better!
Steve Boatman
Grants Pass, OR
1971 510 2DR | KA24DE
Grants Pass, OR
1971 510 2DR | KA24DE
need more info dude....
what size motor? any other modifications?
could be anything...
what size motor? any other modifications?
could be anything...
richard norrish
'68 'goon resto / '71 ice racer / '72 'goon project / '70 4-door rust pile / '67 520 project
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'68 'goon resto / '71 ice racer / '72 'goon project / '70 4-door rust pile / '67 520 project
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shardik wrote: My swap will be made of solid gold and it will run on puppy farts.
Well, condsidering that he's got a 510 with dual webers, I would assume he has an L16/20b, which both would be about the same, characteristically.
What do you think though, Richard? I personally would look into the ignition system first, then worry about the deep-down secrets... with ANY motor, that'd be my guesses.
(Dual webers.. maybe clogged jets?)
What do you think though, Richard? I personally would look into the ignition system first, then worry about the deep-down secrets... with ANY motor, that'd be my guesses.
(Dual webers.. maybe clogged jets?)
Steve Boatman
Grants Pass, OR
1971 510 2DR | KA24DE
Grants Pass, OR
1971 510 2DR | KA24DE
he said 32/36, but did say carbs...leaving me to wonder what it really has. DGV or DCOE?
richard norrish
'68 'goon resto / '71 ice racer / '72 'goon project / '70 4-door rust pile / '67 520 project
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'68 'goon resto / '71 ice racer / '72 'goon project / '70 4-door rust pile / '67 520 project
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shardik wrote: My swap will be made of solid gold and it will run on puppy farts.
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unod1
update... im not runnning!!!! help!!!
Ok guys check it out.. I am running an L18 with an a87 head ... weber dual 32/36 with manual choke.. The stuttering problem was persisting.. the more i adjusted the carb.. the worst it got.. it got so bad that at one point the car lost most of the powere stuttered really bad and eventually shut itself off.. now a little background.. i blow the turn signal fuse about once a month and on top of that i added a radio to the circuitry and after the install the "chg" suddenly started to appear .. i have an electronic dizzy but i dont think i have the correct cap or rotor... .. ok so back to what happened.. when the car shit itself off i couldnt get it to turn back on.. no matter what the setting was on the carb.. it just wouldnt spark although it was turning.. as the night went on and i ket trying to turn it on.. i experienced some faint smok coming from the carb and eventually that car lost all its charge and now wont even turn over.. so do you think my alternator or starter went out... do you think i might have messed something up mechanically??? my theory is a combination problem of a bad cap and rotor and a failing alternator.. causing all this grief and stutter.. can you guys help me out..thanks... also i have alot of parts for the datsun 510 for sale.. on ebay
http://www.stores.ebay.com/id=33144528&ssPageName=L2
http://www.stores.ebay.com/id=33144528&ssPageName=L2
If the car will turn over, but won't spark (did you check plugs for spark?) but it WILL turn over? If it does, then your starter is just fine. If you're getting spark, then I would say it's just flooded out completely (I hear it's really easy to do with webers...)
If I were you, make a damned good check on your COIL CONNECTIONS, because I had a similar problem the other day on my dime. Every time I took a corner, or I had the car pushing a lot (4th gear would qualify... accelerating slower than other gears), causing things to vibrate a lot more, the wire was just barely connected to the coil (hell if I know what to call it.. it's a wire, coming off the coil.
)
I changed the connector, and she ran just fine.
Now, if I were you, I would get new cap, rotor, points, condenser, if your plugs are dirty, get new plugs, and also check your wires to see if they need replaced. Go through all the connections in your ignition system and dizzy.
Good luck on trying to get it to start, it's probobly flooded out fairly well right now. Choke it up, keep her starting and hope for the best!
If I were you, make a damned good check on your COIL CONNECTIONS, because I had a similar problem the other day on my dime. Every time I took a corner, or I had the car pushing a lot (4th gear would qualify... accelerating slower than other gears), causing things to vibrate a lot more, the wire was just barely connected to the coil (hell if I know what to call it.. it's a wire, coming off the coil.
)I changed the connector, and she ran just fine.
Now, if I were you, I would get new cap, rotor, points, condenser, if your plugs are dirty, get new plugs, and also check your wires to see if they need replaced. Go through all the connections in your ignition system and dizzy.
Good luck on trying to get it to start, it's probobly flooded out fairly well right now. Choke it up, keep her starting and hope for the best!
Steve Boatman
Grants Pass, OR
1971 510 2DR | KA24DE
Grants Pass, OR
1971 510 2DR | KA24DE
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unod1
well heres an update... my 510 is dead... for now.. after much trroubleshooting the alternator just died... this is whay i think its dead.... the motor wont turn.. even though the lights and everything electrical turns on.. the car will try to turn when you turn the key ... but just dkes slowly until it cant even attempt to turn.. so i was going to swap the ALT with a 280zx one... my old alt was Externally Regulated so im going to stick with that.. i am just going to go with a higher output.. so i can connect my stereo and highlights.... any other suggestions or comments..??? thanks
Starter celenoid!
If the alternator isn't working, and your battery is good, you'd still be able to crank it, you just would lose charge hella quick.
I'd say you have bad battery connection to the starter, but just enough juice flowing through to turn on common things, lights, radio, etc. But when you go to start it, it's drawing too much through a crappy connection. Check your celenoid, have your alternator tested if you're that worried about it, and re-do your starter/celenoid/motor connections. Also check your ignition lead from your starter!
It's amazing what little things can screw your car over. Can you believe my dad's '90 Chevy's brakes went out when we changed the stereo? Yeah, the brake system is on the same power circuit as the stereo. Go figure. ABS included!
If the alternator isn't working, and your battery is good, you'd still be able to crank it, you just would lose charge hella quick.
I'd say you have bad battery connection to the starter, but just enough juice flowing through to turn on common things, lights, radio, etc. But when you go to start it, it's drawing too much through a crappy connection. Check your celenoid, have your alternator tested if you're that worried about it, and re-do your starter/celenoid/motor connections. Also check your ignition lead from your starter!
It's amazing what little things can screw your car over. Can you believe my dad's '90 Chevy's brakes went out when we changed the stereo? Yeah, the brake system is on the same power circuit as the stereo. Go figure. ABS included!
Steve Boatman
Grants Pass, OR
1971 510 2DR | KA24DE
Grants Pass, OR
1971 510 2DR | KA24DE