Air Care Help?

New posts disabled. Archived technical discussion about the Datsun PL510
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banzai510(hainz)
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Postby banzai510(hainz) » 03 Oct 2004 11:30

Jason,
Whenyou get a chance get a electronic ignition like a Pertronix kit(1741)
Should fit the single point dist you have. Use the stock stuff that you have as is.

As for the emissions i would retard it abit.
But on the solexes you can turn that mixture screw in with the tension spring on there. Turn it in and take not how many turns so you can turn it back when you pass.

I have a L18 that went thru the smog test and it passed!!!!!! Befor they stoped doing the test(car 25yrs older are now exempt)

I guess those bottles of stuff that claim to pass will work.

But retard the ignition and adjust those mixture screws. It will pass.

What I did is find a small shop where we adjusted it before we went to the inspection place.(6 pack of beer_)

Get the Pertronix electronic ignition conversion and move into the mid 70s(technology). Use the tab adapter from the auto motive store so you dont have to cut up your stock wires.
The Pertronix red wire will hook up to the positive side of the Ballast resistor(use tab adpater) which is the 12v swichable and blk wire will go to the minus side of the coil.

as for changing oil. I had oil burners and they still passed inspection.

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jason
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Postby jason » 03 Oct 2004 13:28

banzai510(hainz) wrote:Jason,
Whenyou get a chance get a electronic ignition like a Pertronix kit(1741)
Should fit the single point dist you have. Use the stock stuff that you have as is.

As for the emissions i would retard it abit.
But on the solexes you can turn that mixture screw in with the tension spring on there. Turn it in and take not how many turns so you can turn it back when you pass.

I have a L18 that went thru the smog test and it passed!!!!!! Befor they stoped doing the test(car 25yrs older are now exempt)

I guess those bottles of stuff that claim to pass will work.

But retard the ignition and adjust those mixture screws. It will pass.

What I did is find a small shop where we adjusted it before we went to the inspection place.(6 pack of beer_)

Get the Pertronix electronic ignition conversion and move into the mid 70s(technology). Use the tab adapter from the auto motive store so you dont have to cut up your stock wires.
The Pertronix red wire will hook up to the positive side of the Ballast resistor(use tab adpater) which is the 12v swichable and blk wire will go to the minus side of the coil.

as for changing oil. I had oil burners and they still passed inspection.


Hi Hainz:

I'd like to switch from the single point distributor to the EI, however, to maintain my cars eligibility for "collector's" status/insurance in BC I can't. I can't even have aftermarket air cleaners or a modern stereo or speakers in my car! ICBC (the BC gov't insurance monopoly has so decreed from on high!) Crappy no?

Thanks

Jason

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bertvorgon
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Postby bertvorgon » 03 Oct 2004 14:03

Hi Jason, really try a good dose of methanol, that really helps.
"Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty" - Peter Egan

Keith Law
1973 2Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
1968 Vintage 3HP Mini Bike
1971 Vintage 13' BOLER trailer

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jason
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Postby jason » 03 Oct 2004 14:57

bertvorgon wrote:Hi Jason, really try a good dose of methanol, that really helps.


Hi Keith:

I thought that the Mohawk 94 had a good shot of methanol already?

Jason

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bertvorgon
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Postby bertvorgon » 03 Oct 2004 16:33

I believe it is only 10%. I know when i run my cars through I am usually shooting for about 20%. I make sure my tank is very low, then as soon as I am through, I blast out and fill up to dilute the mix. Benifit to, is that it gets rid of any water that may be in the tank! Keep us posted.
"Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty" - Peter Egan

Keith Law
1973 2Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
1968 Vintage 3HP Mini Bike
1971 Vintage 13' BOLER trailer

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Turn7
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If Only! Hmmm.

Postby Turn7 » 03 Oct 2004 20:28

Byron510 wrote:OK guys, here are some tricks that work.

Retard timing.
Use either Chevron 94 or Mohawk 94 gas
Clean oil helps
Methyl Hydrate helps big time add a couple liters to a 1/4 tank of premium
Higher thermostat temp (195 - 200 deg F)
Idle set above 1000 rpm
Lean it out as much as you can, but it's important that it run smooth. Don’t worry about drivability at this point, once you've passed, you just put it back to normal.
That's all the info that I can get my twin side draft, big cammed LZ2.2 though with, good luck.
Byron


what Cam are you running Byron? I am thinking about getting 6 months insurance for 2005, and of course this means(AAAUUGH!!!) Air Care.
Brent

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Byron510
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Postby Byron510 » 03 Oct 2004 21:25

It's just an M445 - it makes a good street cam for the 2L and 2.2. Air care hasn't yet been a problem.
Byron
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73Wagon
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Postby 73Wagon » 03 Oct 2004 21:28

how much more agressive is an m780 than am m445 in an lz22. Streetable?

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jason
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Postby jason » 03 Oct 2004 21:29

bertvorgon wrote:I believe it is only 10%. I know when i run my cars through I am usually shooting for about 20%. I make sure my tank is very low, then as soon as I am through, I blast out and fill up to dilute the mix. Benifit to, is that it gets rid of any water that may be in the tank! Keep us posted.


I gave up on tuning the solex's myself, I can't find any "IDIOTS GUIDE TO TUNING SOLEX CARB'S" on the internet so I figure I'll screw them up worse than they are now! I'm going to try Toyo motors in Richmond tommorrow and see if they can tune, synch and lean all at the same time, seems like it runs a little rich right now already. Then I'll go get a tank of 94 Mohawk and try the air care again.

Later

Jason

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banzai510(hainz)
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Postby banzai510(hainz) » 03 Oct 2004 21:38

Jason
Cant put in EI ignition? Collector status? Well its only a Roadster and there are alot of nice ones here and putting a Pertronix isnt going to make it cheaper or more expensive

The Pertronix fits in where the stock points go. Its a plate that bolts down using the points screws. Is EZ to hook up and you can go back to the point system in like 20mins.
All this fit under the Distributor cap. Most people never know its there. You cant realy tell.
Thats why I use the Tab adapter. So the stock wire remaim and just electrical tap up the stock point wire back,
If anything your insurance should be Fuking cheaper than running points and your car on the side of the road!!!!!!!!!!! It wont be a collector car then when someone break into it.
The Pertronix ignition was the best 70%US I ever did to my 510s/521 truck.

There is a guy who does the Nissan match box L series distributors for U20s. But he said he had a Pertronix also with no proplems

One thing w/ the Pertronix its made for the stock system(coil and ballast resistor)
But its up to you.

I really dont get what your saying about the collector deal and changing the ignition, Are you running Radial tires? Thats not stock on a roadster!

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Turn7
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780 cam

Postby Turn7 » 03 Oct 2004 21:46

73Wagon wrote:how much more agressive is an m780 than am m445 in an lz22. Streetable?


73Wagon
I am running a 780 as well.

Byron: Can you explain ( as you always seem to do so well)
The difference between the 445 and the 780?
As a side motive, i am thinking about going with less cam.
Thanks
Brent

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jason
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Postby jason » 03 Oct 2004 22:31

banzai510(hainz) wrote:Jason
Cant put in EI ignition? Collector status? Well its only a Roadster and there are alot of nice ones here and putting a Pertronix isnt going to make it cheaper or more expensive

The Pertronix fits in where the stock points go. Its a plate that bolts down using the points screws. Is EZ to hook up and you can go back to the point system in like 20mins.
All this fit under the Distributor cap. Most people never know its there. You cant realy tell.
Thats why I use the Tab adapter. So the stock wire remaim and just electrical tap up the stock point wire back,
If anything your insurance should be Fuking cheaper than running points and your car on the side of the road!!!!!!!!!!! It wont be a collector car then when someone break into it.
The Pertronix ignition was the best 70%US I ever did to my 510s/521 truck.

There is a guy who does the Nissan match box L series distributors for U20s. But he said he had a Pertronix also with no proplems

One thing w/ the Pertronix its made for the stock system(coil and ballast resistor)
But its up to you.

I really dont get what your saying about the collector deal and changing the ignition, Are you running Radial tires? Thats not stock on a roadster!


Hi Hainz:

The only things that you can change that allowable up here for the collector's plates are safety related items like 185/60 14 radials on the stock rims (doesn't work as well as on the old mini lites that I have!) and seatbelts. Anything else the insurance gestapo disallow your application. The only reason I'm going for collector's is that if I can get one clean pass through air care (smog) and qualify for collector's I never have to go through this again, up here collector's are air care (smog) exempt! Yahoo!

I couldn't agree more with the effiency of the EI though, I've read about the Petronix and what I think is that after getting through the process, then converting (since no one will check after!) I may be cheating, but, at least I'll get my way in the end!

Jason

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banzai510(hainz)
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Postby banzai510(hainz) » 04 Oct 2004 06:46

If this is a true Solex roadster then it will have the bigger cam. Maybe thats why is failing smog test. If a tuely Solex motor cam ect...
But my L18 with 44mm Mikunis and bigger cam passed no proplem in the day when I had to do it.

Good luck!!!!!!!

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Byron510
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Postby Byron510 » 04 Oct 2004 06:59

The Solex version of the roadster had a bigger cam. Nissan labeled the cams A, B, and C, C being the biggest and the original one on the Solex version. Tuning the carbs is a bit of an acquired art. If Toyo can't help you out, I would suggest Andy at Specialty Engineering in New West. He is a magician at these things.
Byron

PS The key to passing air care is a smooth running engine. If the motor is stumbling or tripping, then this means a miss in a cylinder and that equals unburned fuel going out the exhaust - and you emission readings go through the roof.
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Byron510
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Postby Byron510 » 04 Oct 2004 07:05

Eh Brent,

I don't have the specs for the cams in front of me, but the 780 cam has more lift and about 30 Deg. more duration than the 445. Don't quote this, but the 445 has about 280 Deg. of duration, and the 780 has above 305 deg. This is what kills the air care. The extra duration means longer overlap (both valves open) This is great for higher RPM scavenging of the cylinder, but at low RPM, this means a huge amount of un burned fuel going out the exhaust. I'm not so sure you would be able to get this cam though air scare. I know it has been done with a few members on their 2.2's, but it's touch and go. As a side note, were you running a spray bar with that cam? They usually won't survive with out one.
Byron
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because the opposite never works.


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