replacing mustache bushings

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defdes
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replacing mustache bushings

Postby defdes » 14 Jun 2006 18:30

Do I have this right, or do I need a bearing press? Whats the easiest way to get this out, because I am having no luck...
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slodat
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RE: replacing mustache bushings

Postby slodat » 14 Jun 2006 18:48

Burn them out with a torch
'70 510 2 door
chopped '69 521

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defdes
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RE: replacing mustache bushings

Postby defdes » 14 Jun 2006 19:31

I could be wrong, but it looks like there is an outer layer of steel then rubber then the outside ring of the mustache bar. From the sizing of the urethane bushings, it looks like that steel ring and rubber should stay.
Anyone verify this, or should it all go bye bye.

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Postby defdes » 14 Jun 2006 19:44

heres a pic of what I was refering to, inside the outermost ring, there is a thin layer of rubber, then another ring of steel. Given the size of the bushing on left, it looks like it would sleeve inside of that steel ring, which means I cant go hog wild with my torches or I could distress that layer of outer rubber even further than I already have.
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Postby TerryHackman » 14 Jun 2006 20:15

I replaced these bushings on my 510. You have to find a round object that is the same size as the outer ring, then support other side of mustache bar with an even bigger round object...then press out. Note: This bushing has a flange on it and will only come out one way. Note which side flange is on because new bushings (if factory units)will have to go in from same side. Mustache bar has to go in one way, meaning there is a top and will not line up with diff if I am correct if installed upside down.

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Postby defdes » 14 Jun 2006 20:45

I understand what you are saying, but as you can see from the pic above, that IS the replacement bushing, and it looks like it would be too small if the whole original bushing was removed...

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defdes
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Postby defdes » 14 Jun 2006 21:20

I popped the old bushing out no problem as you said, the hole is way too bigfor the replacement I have. I burned out all of the rubber to use the outer steel layer (with the flange) as a spacer, my urethane bushings are still too small. Any one have an Enrgy Suspension part # for this?
Last edited by defdes on 15 Jun 2006 22:17, edited 1 time in total.

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Postby defdes » 14 Jun 2006 21:24

the last one didnt post
Last edited by defdes on 15 Jun 2006 22:18, edited 1 time in total.

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Postby heirfaus » 14 Jun 2006 21:42

here it is. Mine are on the shelf collecting dust. because I heard they make the ride very hard. I have been hesitant to put them in
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"An intercooler...has never been, nor should ever be, considered icing on the cake. A proper intercooler is more cake."
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bertvorgon
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Postby bertvorgon » 14 Jun 2006 22:13

When everything gets more solid on the diff/subframe mount, it just transmits more noise/vibration into the car. My subframe/mustach bar is SOLID to the body, thus eliminating ANY deflection in the rear, which would of course, change your alignment settings, and how the car feels in the rear suspension. As much as those poly bushing are harder, you will just have a bit more sound/vibration transmission into the body of the car. The tires/shocks /springs still dictate the ride quality.
"Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty" - Peter Egan

1973 2Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
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heirfaus
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Postby heirfaus » 14 Jun 2006 22:27

Well what the hell am I waiting for!!!!!!!!

:)
"An intercooler...has never been, nor should ever be, considered icing on the cake. A proper intercooler is more cake."
Corky Bell, Maximum Boost

"one of the little things that add up"
-defdes

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duke
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Postby duke » 15 Jun 2006 00:50

Check to make sure that they are actually the right bushing. I got some control arm bushings from them a while ago and the label on the box was right, but it had the wrong bushings in it. Just a thought. Keith, how did you do the solid mounts for your car?
Duke Schimmer

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"Simplify and add lightness."

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defdes
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Postby defdes » 15 Jun 2006 06:15

heirfaus wrote:here it is. Mine are on the shelf collecting dust. because I heard they make the ride very hard. I have been hesitant to put them in

I have a slightly different number on mine. There is an "R" at the end of the top series, and the last couple of digits on the bottom series are differant. Would you do me a favor and take them out of the box and measure the diameter of the small end? Pretty-please?

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Postby bertvorgon » 15 Jun 2006 06:44

We wanted of course, to put the subframe as high up into the body as possible. Andy spun up some aluminium bushings that act as jam washers. I do not have a picture of the subframe one, but, it is fundamentaly the same as the mustache bar one. I think Byron did the same sort of thing. He might have some pictures too.
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Jam washer on mustache bar.
"Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty" - Peter Egan

1973 2Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
1968 Vintage 3HP Mini Bike
1971 Vintage 13' BOLER trailer

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heirfaus
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Postby heirfaus » 15 Jun 2006 21:11

Looks like the smaller side has a diameter of about 40mm
and the larger end has a diameter of about 50mm

I had pictures but the site has reached it's maximum upload for total files..........that SUCKS :shock:
"An intercooler...has never been, nor should ever be, considered icing on the cake. A proper intercooler is more cake."
Corky Bell, Maximum Boost

"one of the little things that add up"
-defdes


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