replacing mustache bushings

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heirfaus
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Postby heirfaus » 15 Jun 2006 21:14

Oh yeah and yours has an R because your bushings are red. I bought the black ones because I didn't want them to stand out. So thats where the letter is different, but I'm not sure about the numbers being different, unless it's just a diferent bar code because of the different color. I can't believe noone has had this problem yet.
"An intercooler...has never been, nor should ever be, considered icing on the cake. A proper intercooler is more cake."
Corky Bell, Maximum Boost

"one of the little things that add up"
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defdes
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Postby defdes » 15 Jun 2006 22:19

I called E.S. today. That is the differance in both numbers, just the color. I sent them some pics too to try and figure out what was wrong, I'd be curious to herar what others have done. I have only done one of them so far, but I used the outermost sleeve from the old bushing, made another steel one from a piece of steel tube that the E.S. bushing slides tightly into, then pressed them into the mustache bar using the vice. As long as the relationship is the same, and its tight in there, anyone see any problem with it. I guess that the metal ring of the carrier on a meteal sleeve against another metal sleeve might not be the best scenario, but its a very positive fit, and with the big washers on top and bottom, the sleeves cant go anywhere...
Damn, I just tried tried to post too. Maybe I'll go back and delete some of my earlier pics and see if that works...ahh, it did.
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bush7.JPG

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heirfaus
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Postby heirfaus » 24 Jun 2006 17:36

Did you ever hear back ES?

I put my bushings in today. Was like butter. Took about 45 minutes. Just burned the old rubber out. popped the two piece retainer out. Lubed them up and in they went. Pinched them in with a vice. There is definetly something wrong with your. Either duke was right and you got the right box/wrong bushings, or you have a different/custom mustachio bar. The OD of the round metal end of the bar is 50 mm, and the od of the larger end of each bushing is 50 mm.

It seems like your method worked, BUT the point is for the fit to be VERY firm and stiff, and with an original bar and correct bushings it is. So I just hope your custom one is fit tight. I would be very interested in hearing what the od of the wide end of your bushings are. My guess is that they are about 46mm, or the bar has an OD of about 54mm. If you check this out let me know!!

Hope this helps!!
"An intercooler...has never been, nor should ever be, considered icing on the cake. A proper intercooler is more cake."
Corky Bell, Maximum Boost

"one of the little things that add up"
-defdes

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slodat
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Postby slodat » 09 Oct 2006 21:24

Hey defdes!

I have some news on this! heirfaus was over yesterday. I saw his mustache bar and the 7.1104 bushings fit it perfectly. They do not fit in either of my mustache bars. Mine are exactly like yours. I searched the bluebird list archives and found someone saying there are two different 510 mustache bars. Early ones take the 7.1104 bushings. Later ones (like you and I have) are said to work with a Z car bushing set 7.1102. I have one set of both bushings. I burned out the rubber and left the shells in the bar. Turns out the Z car bushing (7.1102) fits on the wider side and the 510 (7.1104) fits the smaller (rolled in) side of the shell.

Anyone ever seen this before? I'm thinking of just running one of each and splitting the cost with someone else who needs them (defdes??)

Input appreciated.

Also, which side is up on the mustache bar - the straight one or the other side?
'70 510 2 door
chopped '69 521

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heirfaus
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Postby heirfaus » 09 Oct 2006 21:36

Kieth what year is your bar from. I have no idea what mine is from, but it looks just like yours and the bushings slide in.

Incase you missed the pic look at page one it has bothe styles. Bertvorgon has one style, same as I do. defdes has the other, same as Wurker.
"An intercooler...has never been, nor should ever be, considered icing on the cake. A proper intercooler is more cake."
Corky Bell, Maximum Boost

"one of the little things that add up"
-defdes

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slodat
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Postby slodat » 11 Oct 2006 23:08

There are indeed 2 different mustache bars. The smaller one has 1.645" ID "rings" on the ends. The larger is 2" ID. The smaller one is the one the ES 7.1104 bushings fit.
Attachments
Photo_101106_003.jpg
small on top, larger on bottom
Photo_101106_002.jpg
larger on top, smaller on bottom
'70 510 2 door
chopped '69 521

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heirfaus
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Postby heirfaus » 11 Oct 2006 23:52

I wonder if the larger is from a Z car?

Wurker, where'd you get the second bar?
"An intercooler...has never been, nor should ever be, considered icing on the cake. A proper intercooler is more cake."
Corky Bell, Maximum Boost

"one of the little things that add up"
-defdes

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slodat
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Postby slodat » 12 Oct 2006 05:33

One of the great guys in DatsunsNW hooked me up.

The first two are definitely from 510's. There are 2 different ones. I've found many references to that fact on the bb list archives. Where the year split is not certain.
'70 510 2 door
chopped '69 521

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bertvorgon
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Postby bertvorgon » 12 Oct 2006 06:25

My bar is definately from my 73" chassis, as far as I can remember. The stock rubber bushings are still in there, we just made those special jam washer peices, to totally lock up the subframe, so it does not move.
"Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty" - Peter Egan

1973 2Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
1968 Vintage 3HP Mini Bike
1971 Vintage 13' BOLER trailer

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bertvorgon
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Postby bertvorgon » 12 Oct 2006 17:50

While I think of it, if the diff is out, this is a good time to check and adjust the driveshaft angularity. If you have had no vibration problems, then leave all your diff washers where they were. If you have had vibration issues, measure the tailshaft angle on the transmission, then, when you put the diff back in, you want the pinion to be within 1/2 to 1 degree of what the transmission was. It's worth the effort to do that, specially if you actually do some high speed driving. Adjust, or make some similar washers to get you in the ball park. Double check after you tighten everything up. When we all do these motor/tranny/transmission mount changes, things can get out of whack pretty easily. Nothing like having as smooth a power train as possible, when driveshaft speeds are up in the 7,000-8,000 RPM range, let alone a nice freeway cruise speed.
"Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty" - Peter Egan

1973 2Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
1968 Vintage 3HP Mini Bike
1971 Vintage 13' BOLER trailer

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heirfaus
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Postby heirfaus » 12 Oct 2006 19:06

I put the dogleg in and I later swapped to R180. I just put the same spacers in that I had in with the R-180. I don't think I have any vibration but........

how do I go about checking the difference in angles?
"An intercooler...has never been, nor should ever be, considered icing on the cake. A proper intercooler is more cake."
Corky Bell, Maximum Boost

"one of the little things that add up"
-defdes

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defdes
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Postby defdes » 12 Oct 2006 21:15

Well that settles it then. I have the larger one on top. Thanks fotr that, you should put those part #'s (large and small) on the "Part Number Thread"....

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bertvorgon
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Postby bertvorgon » 12 Oct 2006 21:27

Ok, take your protractor, and put it on the tail shaft of the transmission, so that is on the outer edge of where the yoke slides in. This will give you an angle, record that. Then, put your protractor on the pinion where the flange is mounted for the driveshaft to bolt onto, this will give you an angle. You want them to be within 1/2 to 1 degree of each other. This is where your either adjust the diff, spacers/washers, or see what you can do with the trans mount. Not sure if I made that clear, let me know.
"Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty" - Peter Egan

1973 2Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
1968 Vintage 3HP Mini Bike
1971 Vintage 13' BOLER trailer

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hang_510
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Postby hang_510 » 13 Oct 2006 09:52

^does that driveshaft anglularity apply to a rigid axle as well?
most of my noise is from a bad u-joint (i hope)
byron wrote:I'd be all over that like a fat kid on a smartie.

okayfine wrote:Sense doesn't always have everything to do with it, and I speak from experience.

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defdes
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Postby defdes » 13 Oct 2006 10:02

I get a "wobble" that goes up the gear shift knob at about 3000 rpms in most gears. I have had the same drive shaft and gear box combo in my race car and it was fine, so maybe there is an alignment problem in my street car....


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