the BEST DIY rear cross member?

New posts disabled. Archived technical discussion about the Datsun PL510
yenpit
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Location: Denver Colorado

Postby yenpit » 10 Mar 2007 18:36

Michigan representin'!!!!!! Word.
72 510 4dr
80 720 pickup
LOTS of parts!
2000 Impreza Outback Sport
2002 Forester

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Byron510
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Postby Byron510 » 04 May 2007 22:25

It's been a while since this thread was updated.
Since I last posted, I've been at work on developing the adjustable rear suspension bracket some more. I know there were some interested people out there; I'm just letting you know I'm still on the job.
A few months back, I posted version 1, it had a very serious production flaw due to a lack of communication with cutter, and those were scrap.
Version 2 was finished a month ago, I met up with James and Rob one night to install them on James cross member (see pic), but there was another flaw that came apparent upon assembly; we needed more clearance between the top side of the control arm and the pivot bolt.
Changes were made to the drawing (thanks Rich for pushing this one through), and another set was ordered from the laser cutter.
So, tonight, we are here at Version 3. Richard just dropped off the freshly cut pieces (thanks again Rich). Now I need to modify my bending die/jig and we will be ready to try again.
We're really close, I'll keep you posted.
Byron
Attachments
DSCN6871 (Small).JPG
Here was version 2 ready to try out - looked good, but didn't work!
DSCN6883 (Small).JPG
Here, you can see the problem. The pivot point needed to be moved upwards. The top of the control arm hits the pivot olt long before full adjustment it met.
Last edited by Byron510 on 04 May 2007 22:29, edited 1 time in total.

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Byron510
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Postby Byron510 » 04 May 2007 22:28

Version 2 vs. version 3
Both brackets are the same overall height at the cross member mounting side, hole location was pushed upwards 3/4".
Attachments
DSCN6869 (Small).JPG
Version 2 brackets just for comparision to the below V-3 units.
DSCN7423 (Small).JPG
V-3 brackets with the newly relocated pivot hole, re-curved arc and a few other minor changes to the CNC program.

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slodat
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Postby slodat » 04 May 2007 23:48

WOW! I am very interested in these!!!
'70 510 2 door
chopped '69 521

BACARDI_DWB

Postby BACARDI_DWB » 05 May 2007 07:37

byron those look awesome. wondering if you are going to make a few extra sets when you are done??? definately would pay for a set

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Byron510
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Postby Byron510 » 05 May 2007 17:28

I sure can get some extra sets made; I do know that there is quite a bit of interest. What I don't know is what the cost will be. I have not yet been billed for the last two sets of "test" versions – when I get that bill, I’ll have a good idea of what this will cost you (and me!).
The brackets are made to accommodate the stock 510 rear control arm and stock mounting bolt. All other hardware will be supplied with the brackets. But I do want to mount a set, and make sure they have the full range of adjustment needed in the most extreme (really low) applications. I have a car that is waiting as a volunteer.
I'll keep you all posted.
Byron
Love people and use things,
because the opposite never works.

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zootowndime
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Postby zootowndime » 07 May 2007 13:55

Yep looking good byron, i will definatly take a set. Does anyone have any spare crossmembers they can spare to sell?
Alex King
www.brewedmotors.com

BACARDI_DWB

Postby BACARDI_DWB » 07 May 2007 14:01

Thanks byron. really appreciate it..

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Byron510
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Postby Byron510 » 07 May 2007 23:34

I machined the jig tonight to bend the new, thicker redesigned Version three brackets. I didn't take any photos, but I will post some tomorrow.
McShagger will have this set tested on his car ASAP. If all goes well, and the adjustment is what we are looking for, then we'll have a very good alternative for rear wheel adjustment of camber and toe all in one bracket on our 510's.
Byron
Love people and use things,
because the opposite never works.

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rnorrish
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Postby rnorrish » 07 May 2007 23:53

hmmm... do you think we could have some ready for Canby?

and i got the price today for all the pieces....
richard norrish
'68 'goon resto / '71 ice racer / '72 'goon project / '70 4-door rust pile / '67 520 project
----------------------------------------------------------------------
shardik wrote:My swap will be made of solid gold and it will run on puppy farts.

4doordime
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Postby 4doordime » 08 May 2007 00:16

also very interested in these. Keep us updated.

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Byron510
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Postby Byron510 » 08 May 2007 06:44

Rich, PM me the costs.
I know it's been adding up over the course of this project.
I'd sure like to see a set on James car for Canby, I'll bet they'll be in place, and hopefully I'll have an uninstalled set to bring along to the show so that everyone down south can see them.
Byron
Love people and use things,
because the opposite never works.

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duke
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Postby duke » 08 May 2007 11:09

I was going to make a set myself, but after seeing version 3, I want some! Defineatly put me down for a set.
Duke Schimmer

'72 2-Door 510
"Simplify and add lightness."

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Yellowcar
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Postby Yellowcar » 08 May 2007 14:01

What keeps the adjusters from moving? On a regular slotted crossmember the practice is to tack weld the washer after adjustment, is that what you would do with these too?

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Byron510
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Postby Byron510 » 08 May 2007 19:19

It's up to the person that installs them, really.
If you have a street car that never needs to be constantly adjusted, why not tack them in place so that they never move.
For the racing types, I'm going to supply serrated lock washers that are much better at keeping things in place. It's no guarantee, but better than a plain old lock washer.
FYI, I'll probably tack mine in place after I get it set where I want it.
Byron
Love people and use things,
because the opposite never works.


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