N/A FJ20 Build

[duke]

I would go with what Rich said. The Z-series is oriented in the same manner as the FJ. You might also try a KA tranny, as they also have the same orientation.

[defdes]

I just got off the phone with Troy Ermish who builds quite a few of these. He said to go for the KA box. Anyone have one local SoCal?

[510rob]

I know the transmission from a S13 240SX KA24E 12-valve will work

[defdes]

I know the transmission from a S13 240SX KA24E 12-valve will work

You know the years?

[jason]

That should be the 1989 to 1990 model years for the S13 KA24E Brian.

[icehouse]

Is there any difference from the single to the double? I've never really had any problem but I've never paid much attention.

I want to SEE the FJ in the car I'm looking at a turbo FJ soon We can be FJ buddies

[defdes]

Awww, we're buddies anyway, drawn together by something more powerful than ever meeting face to face.
What, seeing it half way in the car wasn't enough for you?....me neither.
My wife is away this whole long weekend, and I had big plans to get this thing all in (minus header) by end of day tomorrow. It'll have to wait till next weekend I guess.

[icehouse]

FFFWWW I was hoping we where buddies The FJ is going in your orange car right? I can't wait to see the pics You will have to take a vid of it running! I love the sound of a NA FJ! I would post a vid of a buddy but I don't want to steel the thread with none related stuff

[defdes]

Post way it's on tangent....i'd like to hear it too not having heard many.
Yes, the orange car it is:

[defdes]

Here is the FJ/1600 distributor mod needed. Stock FJ on left, single point L series w/ Pertronix on right.
The drive gears need to to be swapped out. Unfortunately, the gudgeon pin on each gear dont line up with the holes on the distributor shaft of the other. Note where distributor oriention "dot" (showing) is on the FJ unit (facing you when rotor is pointed at #1) orient the gear the same way on the L series, rotate rotor to #1, and drill.
Also, check the distributor cap you need to run when running side drafts, inputs are on side as to clear bottom of manifod.

[icehouse]

What header are you going to run? O and this is my really good buddy's 510 with a carbed FJ, its by far the fastest non turbo car I've ridden in.

P.S. no rev limiter he just rev's it till it won't go anymore over 8k if I remember correctly.

http://ie.youtube.com/watch?v=p4coCNXtH3I


Don't quote me on this but I remember him saying something about the A series distributor, have you ever heard of that? I will text him and find out

[defdes]

Like the sound of that.
I thought that too, and I have a number of them, but they are a smaller diameter and cant use the wierd cap posted above. I havent had the whole thing put together yet, just mocked up on the stand, so I cant say either way which'll fit. But the A series and the FJ have the same drive gear, that I know. I just thought this would be easier since I had the correct Pertronix for the L diz.
As far as headers, it will be a DIY, possible modding an L20b, if not, from scratch.

[defdes]

So the install goes on...and on...
I tracked down a KA24DE gear box last week aftyer talking to Troy Ermish, he said among other things, that I might need to modify my Dave Carrol cross member. So I get the gear box in position, cut about 1 1/2" more out of my tranny tunnel to accomodate the extra length for the shifter, and jack it up into place. I measure from the edge of the bell housing to the motor mounts on the newly flipped front cross member, and from the back of the block to the centerline of the engine mount bolt holes to figure where the gear box needs to be. I am maxed out on my slotted holes on the tranny cross member, and I still need to slide it back towards the rear of the car 1/4".
Easy enough:

I cut a bit more out of the tunnel, and mount the tranny. Alll is well so far. I figured that was all Troy was refering to in terms of mods.
I hang the motor this morning for the second time, and there is no way that the radiator will fit in front, the motor/gearbox need to slide back another 2". I drop the crossmember again, cut more out of the tranny tunnel, and slide the motor back where it needs to be. Now the tranny crossmember is way out of usable range. I thought I remembered that you could flip these around as an adjustment for the longer transmissions. Nope, doesnt work. But that didnt stop me from trying for the better part of an hour. I pull the crossmember off again to cut the ears off, I bolt the ears to the bottom of the car, and the center section to the tranny. Nothing is lining up, I have overlap on one side, and a 3/8" gap on the other. After allot of futzing, I get to where I think is okay. I then look at the angle that the motor is sitting at and I dont like it visually. Since I am tied down to nothing at the moment, I take a little of the "tilt" out of the motor, which will now require customizing one side of the tranny mount to accomodate the slight twist of the tranny. This took ALL DAY, and I am only half done...but at least now I think I know what I am doing. I think I should also run a string down the center line of the differential to the motor to make sure I have everything properly aligned. I am SO SLOW doing this kind of work, but AT LEAST it takes me a really long time to get things done. Thankfully I am not working tomorrow so can hopefuly get this taken care of before the next rain.

[icehouse]

Dude we have the same problem sometimes with the Dave Carrol crossmember! I got my fingers crossed for the one for my 68

[rnorrish]

is it a problem with the KA24DE transmissions?