N/A FJ20 Build

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defdes
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Re: N/A FJ20 Build

Post by defdes »

Spent most of the day trying to figure out why I had no spark...looks like the crank sensor has up and died on me.
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defdes
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Re: N/A FJ20 Build

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Byron wins! Detonation it was.
It turns out that when I mounted the 60 tooth sender on the balancer that I put the sensor 1 1/2 teeth off thereby retarding the ignition timing. When I set my timing at 34 (already about 6* too advanced for the motor) I was probably running closer to 42*. Ouch. I am happy that the results were not a lot worse. Got it all dialed in right now and it purrs like a happy cat.

Anyway, on to the next issue. Does anyone know anything about these front struts? I searched Nissan Comp and the web and found nothing. Inserts are way too soft and I wanted to order some others.
Part # 54303 P6500
1 5 20
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okayfine
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Re: N/A FJ20 Build

Post by okayfine »

Should be the ZX strut based on the PN.
Because when you spend a silly amount of money on a silly, trivial thing that will help you not one jot, you are demonstrating that you have a soul and a heart and that you are the sort of person who has no time for Which? magazine. – Jeremy Clarkson
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defdes
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Re: N/A FJ20 Build

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Seems like you've chimed in on this before, Julian: http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.ph ... 1&start=15
Thanks. My initial search did not turn that up.
Is that a Nissan strut BY Tokico, or the other way around? The strut has the Nissan emblem on it.
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okayfine
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Re: N/A FJ20 Build

Post by okayfine »

Tokico probably supplied the strut assembly to Datsun, as Hitachi supplied the diff. Couldn't imagine a different reason for Tokico to be imprinted on the housing. Good thing is there's plenty of inserts for those. I ran a set of Tokico blue/5-ways in my KA510 and liked them.
Because when you spend a silly amount of money on a silly, trivial thing that will help you not one jot, you are demonstrating that you have a soul and a heart and that you are the sort of person who has no time for Which? magazine. – Jeremy Clarkson
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defdes
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Re: N/A FJ20 Build

Post by defdes »

This car got the short shrift when I bought my race car save for fluid changes etc.. Now that it's sold, I have some catching up to do to make it as nice as the track car.
I had a loose rear wheel which felt like bad bearings, I replaced the bearings a few (probably like 6) years ago but reused the locknut on the inside of the spindle. Thinking that was it, I got new ones and retorqued with no change. Turned out it was this:
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I had bought a spare set of rear swing arms from the Eagle Rock Swap Meet for the race car, fortunately the stubs were good, so I swapped one in from there and changed the bearings(Timken RW-101).
Can these spindles be reworked to be usable again, or when they're gone they're gone?
While I was at it I ordered new Porterfield R4-S shoes (359).
New springs are Eibach 250# to match the front rate and QA1 50946
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Continuing with the rear, I did Byron's solid mount trick for the rear crossmember, removed the padded washer between it and the body and inverted the cone shaped washer with the thick aluminum washer behind it. It requires enough torque to deform the top of the ball a bit to get it to touch the aluminum washer, I added another washer on top just for strength.
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defdes
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Re: N/A FJ20 Build

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Changed the mustache bar bushings:
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The bottom of the car didn't used to be so dirty but I had it oil under coated when I moved to Vermont. Half of my driving is on dirt roads too...more if I can help it.


A few pages back in this post, I suffered a front sump drama and had to raise the motor about 5/8" in order to avoid that happening again. What I didn't do, was shim up the gear box so I had some really bad drive line angularity. Not any more, it's now within about 2*:
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To the front, new bearings (Timken Set 6 inner and Set 2 outer for the ZX struts seal is 1188-S), KYB AGX cartridges, SP slotted rotors, Porterfield R4-S pads and Balkamp wheel studs 6412785 and steering rods from Troy.
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Last edited by defdes on 28 Feb 2014 16:56, edited 1 time in total.
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defdes
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Re: N/A FJ20 Build

Post by defdes »

I was weeping a bit of fuel in chambers of the Mikunis so I reinstalled a fuel pressure gauge to see if that was the culprit.
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So here's how she sits now, just need to bleed the brakes and top off some tranny fluid that leaked out when I pulled out the drive shaft. Still have to order my new windshield from Pilkington then park it till the snow melts some time in June!
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Byron510
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Re: N/A FJ20 Build

Post by Byron510 »

I really like your. Are and How you've built it. Glad it's getting the attention it deserves.

I've looked at damaged stub shafts in the past. Anything is fixable, but is it worth it?
I am leary about applying heat to a standard shaft, as they are heat treated. I apply a method called cold spray welding on the smaller turbocharger shafts at work (1500-5000hp range). This method has a maximum shaft temperature of 260 City. It may be employed here, and then the stub shaft bearing journal(s). An be machined and ground to the correct time size again.

The second back yard method is to use shaft and bearing locktite. My eyeballs micrometer doesn't show very much deviation in that journal. If this is true and there is a bit of the shaft that will hold the bearings concentric with each other, this locktite product will fill the voids and fully support the bearing on the shaft. It might be an option in this case.

Byron
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because the opposite never works.
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defdes
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Re: N/A FJ20 Build

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Thanks Byron, for the acknowledgement and the information. The scoring on that part can be felt with your fingernail, but it is isolated, more or less, to one side. Seems like what you recommended with the loctite should work the trick. It will live to roll another day and be put in the "keeper" box tomorrow.
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Re: N/A FJ20 Build

Post by Three B's Racing »

Hey John

So you thinkin Summit Point this year? I'll be heading out May 14th at midnight driving through to Qwik510s house in MD hanging there until Thursday morning then Dave, Keith and I will head to Summit Point from there. But we will both be caravanning back Sunday morning possibly along with Chris of Maine and Dave Patten. Come on it's been many years and you haven't tagged along yet!!!

Lou
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defdes
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Re: N/A FJ20 Build

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Nah Lou, show's aren't my thing. But I'll definitely make it over to your parts during the summer. I'll probably need to pick up some bits from Dave at some point.

I had been getting back pressure popping out of the slip joint to my header, the U-Bolts (2) weren't sealing it fully. I bought this V band clamp about 4 years ago to replace them.
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Won't know until The Thaw whether it worked or not.
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defdes
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Re: N/A FJ20 Build

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Anyone know who originally made this adjustable cross member? I would imagine someone in SoCal, DP Racing, Tom Neely? I have seen only one mention of one over the years and it had to do with where to find the shims not who designed it. Shims are slid behind the inboard mounting point of the swing arm to adjust toe.
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defdes
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Re: N/A FJ20 Build

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I might be one of the only people who carry a full sized spare, but I was tired of it bumping around in the trunk, now all I need is a compact jack.
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Three B's Racing
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Re: N/A FJ20 Build

Post by Three B's Racing »

defdes wrote:Nah Lou, show's aren't my thing. But I'll definitely make it over to your parts during the summer. I'll probably need to pick up some bits from Dave at some point.

What show??? It's during the Jefferson 500 race, it isn't a car show not even close just a bunch of 510 guys hanging out for a weekend of racing and camping and every little other thing that comes along.
"Lastnight the wife said oh boy when your dead you can't take nothing with you but your soul oh "Think"
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