The 510 Realm

Good questions!

Our steering arms are shorter then the escort arms, which is why we have the .84 correction factor. In my daily I have the old version crossmember with the 2.9 lock to lock with the AE86 rack, in our Enduro racecar we have the 2.4 lock to lock V3 crossmemeber. I was expecting it to feel to fast for the street. I actually love the feel! We picked up a 2.0 lock to lock to try for the next race The 2.4 needs to go in my daily

The reason it links you to the RHD rack is because the escort is front steer where the 510 is rear. So if you put a front steer right hand drive rack in your rear steer left hand drive 510 things work out perfect.

I reached out to the guys at Kiley Clinton and they called me back! Super down to earth dudes! They said the stock replacement (economy choice) is fine for anything that isn't racing in the dirt (we have it in our enduro car). Their racks are designed for dudes going 100mph through the dirt while catching air! haha.

Don't forget to order bushings with the rack. Only the ultra heavy duty ones come with bushings for some reason.

Keep me posted on how it goes fitting it in with the 2.4 block. That's a tall boy! I still think getting a 2.2 block might make the installation a bit easier.

You can always call our text to if you have any questions. 206-913-1466 Jeff

Thanks for the feedback. After I realized the links were ALL wrong, I did wonder if that was intentional.... Of course.

That 2.4 will fit in there if I have to use a crowbar and a hood scoop or trim some (more) off the valve cover. Not going to start re-doing the engine now. The sway bar is the only wild card at this point, but that's the fun part, right?

Just for make you say it, the MSTRD870 rack will be the correct economy rack for my LHD 510 if I want an actual 2.4 ratio when all of your components are installed. Right?

Rack bushings from motorsport-tools.com. They were very responsive to my email request:

Rubber:
https://www.motorsport-tools.com/ford-e ... ushes.html Poly:
https://www.motorsport-tools.com/escort ... sport.html Decided to go with the 2.4/2.0 actual ratio RHD rack. MSTRD816. Always err on the side of "too sporty", as you have found, it rarely disappoints.

That's very true! Now I want to put the 2.0 in my daily....

zKars wrote: ↑24 Aug 2018 08:13 Thanks for the feedback. After I realized the links were ALL wrong, I did wonder if that was intentional.... Of course.

That 2.4 will fit in there if I have to use a crowbar and a hood scoop or trim some (more) off the valve cover. Not going to start re-doing the engine now. The sway bar is the only wild card at this point, but that's the fun part, right?

Just for make you say it, the MSTRD870 rack will be the correct economy rack for my LHD 510 if I want an actual 2.4 ratio when all of your components are installed. Right?

Yes that is the right 2.4 lock to lock rack. The crossmember was made to fit the Kiley Clinton racks, with a shim on one side (included) the economy rack fits. There is a wide rack available you don't want. It's the only one that doesn't work.

We used a NASCAR style bar under the core support on our racecar. There is also a guy in California who makes a traditional bar that fits. I don't know his contact info. Soon we will have the parts available to make the NASCAR bar work.

i have now received my rack and bushings from Motorsport-tools. Rack looks great. I ordered both their poly and rubber bushings. Well the red poly ones fit the rack very well, while the rubber ones, well, not so much. The appear a bit big on the ID. Maybe when clamped in the x member they will tighten up, but I can't see using anything but the poly ones. No play needed or wanted here!

I have also received my crossmember and assorted goodies from James. As has been previously said, this stuff is serious well built goodies. Won't have a chance to do any work on this until OCtober at least, but I'm sure it will be a joy to work with.

Yeah the bushings vs rack fitment isn’t the best on some combos. I think the problem is there are lots of rack variations. I had to put a small sheet metal spacer behind the non steering side when using the stock replacement rack but with the 2.4 heavy duty rack it was a task getting both sides in.

Well here it is March 2019 and I'm finally at the engine install stage. The R&P install went pretty well, and I have the front sump A10 oil pan clearing the new rack with just the expected left side rack bushing mount "dimple" that I had to add to get enough clearance. Depending on where I put the final trans tail height, it will be an easy fit. I built custom engine mount pads that put them in the exact position as the stock ones, that worked well. I decided to use stock L engine isolators for now.

Haven't addressed the sway bar yet. Thinking about trying the SR20 orange line bar from Futofab. It is designed for a front sump thing, right?

But the immediate challenge is exhaust routing. That new steering column ujoint thingy goes right through a very important piece of real estate that the exhaust likes to use. I was using a stock L manifold and just tossing it on here before dinner made my appetite kind of disappear..... The down pipe I so lovingly crafted will need some very serious modification to get pipes past that area. i have one crap shorty header I'm about to put on to see where it points, but I think I already know.

Anyone else find a solution for this with an L series engine? I don't remember this coming up in the thread did it?

I have a friend here with a Emrish header, I'll ask him to bring it over to see.

Maybe I get to make my first custom header.....

zKars wrote: ↑11 Mar 2019 16:51 But the immediate challenge is exhaust routing. That new steering column ujoint thingy goes right through a very important piece of real estate that the exhaust likes to use. I was using a stock L manifold and just tossing it on here before dinner made my appetite kind of disappear..... The down pipe I so lovingly crafted will need some very serious modification to get pipes past that area. i have one crap shorty header I'm about to put on to see where it points, but I think I already know.

Anyone else find a solution for this with an L series engine? I don't remember this coming up in the thread did it?

Maybe I get to make my first custom header.....

Sounds like a good excuse for forced induction. The turbocharger acts as an exhaust relocation device!

JordanTr wrote: ↑12 Mar 2019 09:28

zKars wrote: ↑11 Mar 2019 16:51 But the immediate challenge is exhaust routing. That new steering column ujoint thingy goes right through a very important piece of real estate that the exhaust likes to use. I was using a stock L manifold and just tossing it on here before dinner made my appetite kind of disappear..... The down pipe I so lovingly crafted will need some very serious modification to get pipes past that area. i have one crap shorty header I'm about to put on to see where it points, but I think I already know.

Anyone else find a solution for this with an L series engine? I don't remember this coming up in the thread did it?

Maybe I get to make my first custom header.....

Sounds like a good excuse for forced induction. The turbocharger acts as an exhaust relocation device!

Well first I have to get the Jenvy Heritage throttle bodies installed and working NA, THEN I can buy their plenum and force feed the thing. Mind you the 10:1 compression is going to be a bit tricky to deal with....

Nothing Avgas does not cure..heh..heh....100LL does wonders.

How many airports do you go by on your way to Knox?

Me and Sam did two rack conversions with L series. By far the hardest engine to install it on We just beat a big dent in a short tube header, moved the motor back as far as it would go and leaned it to the other side.

Or run E85. When we ran Avgas on Dave's turbo car originally it was over 11.0 to 1 compression. that mixed with a turbo and Avgas!!! Damn good combo!

I know I know, custom parts make custom work necessary. Just curious what others may have done.

Hmmmm. Clamp header in BIG vise on heavy bench, insert 6 foot large pipe in collector, and PULL (in right direction). Create clearance as needed with ball peen. Grind 'just a little" off the steering u-joint flange so it rotates freely. Got it.

We'll work on the turbo solutions next year.

Alright we got the exhaust all flanged up without having to hammer or dent anything. It did take some fancy footwork.

First I took a shorty header I had laying around and made it even shorty-er. The last two inches of the individual pipes are straight just before they enter the collector, so CHOP and those two inches disappeared to effectively raise the outlet.

With that done, I could then add a 2.5" mandrel bend 90'ish and get over and past the steering shaft and u-joint, then another 90-ish elbow down to a v-band. Below the v-band it changes into 2" all the way back. I was also able to add a resonator this time (there is another thread about me whining about my thing being too loud). I found a 2" ID resonator that has a mear 3.5" OD, about 20" long. Mopac had two of them sitting on the shelf. It' tucked up real tight about a a sheet of paper away from the drive shaft and floor. I may have to add a couple of hangers to ensure it stays put and doesn't rattle.

Pics to show what happened over the last couple of days.

Could you do me a favor?
Could you post a photo, same version as the first pic showing the steering shaft under the exhaust - only pan further back? I'd love to get a broader picture of the whole situation

Thanks Jim.

Byron