The Bronze - '69er Resto Project and continuing build-up.

[Byron510]

Geez - been a while since I updated my own thread!

The Bronze was put back to EFI this past winter It was fun playing with the carbs. For the first time ever (since I went to EFI in 2005) I had both a master set of jets, a number of choke sizes and a wide band A/F meter - all of which made the chore of setting up a set of carbs properly, just a simple process of trial and error. It was very interesting to watch how under the exact same circumstances, where a jetting change on a main, effects everything else in some way, or a change in the pilot jets would do the same... it was educational to say the least.

Anyways, the Bronze is not going on the road anytime soon, but I drive it at least twice a week... around the yard! However I have been having intermittent ignition issues again. It's starts with a little jump on the tack, and gets to the point where the thing wont run. Again I''m back to corrosion in the connections between the ignition module and the GM coils.
So....
I broke down and bought some genuine AC Delco OEM coils to replace my aftermarket ones that came with the SDS EFI system back in the 90's when it was purchased. The new ones came in the mail on Tuesday at less than 1/4 the cost of the local auto parts store... I don't mind paying a bit more fro local source, but when I get quote $137 for the exact same part that I can get online for $30.... You know I like to also contribute to my own retirement plan in stages - opposed to a lump sum!
The quality of the OEM part is better; the clamping pressure on the push in connectors is definitely stronger, and the plating on the terminals and on the coil posts is also better. Otherwise, they look the same because I can;t see the unit internally.

The rust that was taking place in the internal connection can be seen staining the outside of the old coil here, and on the terminals...

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Anyways, I cleaned up the terminals the best I could, resealed the connection to the igniter box, bolted the new coils back on and numbered them as per the old units. My label machine decal isn't going to hold out like the old numbers did. I'll have to look for said stenciled lettering, maybe the local stationary store.

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It was nice to have the car fire up, crisp and clean again - with a smooth operating tach. She should be ready for the road trip, whenever we next get the chance.

Byron

[510rob]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BSCGt3E3_70

[Byron510]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BSCGt3E3_70

[Byron510]

Purchasing bits there days - a comparison that supprised me....local sometimes does work out better, know your sources and resources!

So on our last little group drive to Penticton a few weeks ago, I did enjoy driving the Bronze

I have a couple things to work on;

- Alt pulley size to be increased to slow the thing down (I smelled burning windings again onthe drive, but it's still working for now)
- Mechanical water temp gauge bit the dust around Hedley - I had the EFI electric sensor on the SDS EFI - so I wasn't flying blind
- oil burning issue isn't fixing itself (damn it!) Block needs a re-do

I couldn't find the direct replacement for the SW mechanical gauge I have (it's 30 years old!), but I did find a reasonably close substitute - PN 82326-72. Online it looked like I could ship it in for anywhere from $130-170 CDN - taxes in - customs fees unknown, UPS/FedEx Ass hole fees, unknown - all depending on the source (Flee bay, Amazon, Speedway Motors, Summit etc). The local sources were interesting; Lordo $176 & T&T Autoparts $119 could get them the same day, suggesting there is a local source. Mopac only carries Autometer. Langley Old Car Center could bring it in through SPeedway for $105 landed in 2 weeks which was the best deal (thanks to Mopac for sending me their direction).All local plus tax only - nice and simple, just go and pick it up!

I just wanted to share with you what I found through various sources. Interesting that T&T Autoparts and Langley Old Car Center could get me the part cheaper through their suppliers than I could directly from SW's only official distrubutors. All you US guys - yes the gauge is $65 US. We just pay through the ass up here for everything.
Oh, and SW has no ossicial distrubutopr in Canada - odd. They do show an Ontario address, but their website doesn't;t look to keen on gauge sales, but rather making billboards stadium signs (?!?).

Long story short, pulled the trigger at T&T Autopartrs, locally, righthere in Maple Ridge, and will replace the gauge next week

I'll get on the alt pulley next week as well - I have a chunk of Aluminum that I'll start widdling down after I pick a target diameter (not sure what that'll be, maybe 30% bigger....?)

And I'll be ready for the drive in a dew weeks time.

Byron

[Byron510]

BTW
Is it agreed that a standard automotive V belt has a 40 degree included angle? Seems there a bit of conflicting information out there, and the worn pulleys I have, as well as the twin, stamped washer design on the new alt really don't help the situation as they are all over the place.

My biggest design error on the current one was not making the groove deep enough. Eventually, through wear, the belt was hitting the bottom of the grove, and in a way, the belt became a bit of a clutch for years. But I never had charging problems - just the odd slippage at startup at night when the lights were on. Actually I'm surprised at how little it wore over the past 8 years when I just put up with the issue.

I put the pulley up in the lathe just before our last drive and did correct the groove depth. B now that the belt has been actually working, and I think I eliminated the "clutch" that was saving the damn alternator all these years! You think you're doing good, and then.....

Anyway, I'll be making the groove deeper this time on the bigger diameter pulley.

Byron

[funwithmonkeys]

Hey Byron, Andy made me a bigger pulley for my alternator. I can send you the measurements if you want. My motor does spin a bit faster but it will give you a good idea where to start.

[bertvorgon]

This is what Dave Christie and I did back in the Solo2 wars, as we kept frying/breaking the alternators. At our engine at max the poor alternator was spinning at 13,000 RPM..NOT GOOD.

Neither of us had a problem after that, now some 30 years later.

It does drop voltage at idle, but other than the BS with the Innovate, that did not like the low voltage at idle, it is fine.

We also slowed the water pump to stop cavitation at our 7-8 thousand rpm mode when really zipping.

[Byron510]

Make a phone call - go pick it up 2 hours later... kind of miss this service lately!

Thanks to T&T Autoparts.

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Apparently not everything is made in China these days...

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As for the pulley - I think it's already smaller than that Keith. I'llmeasure and take a photo.
I also made a smaller crank underdrive pulley like yours as well, I think I took over 1.5" of the diameter to slow everything down. You and I had a conversation about this when I did it years ago, but I think I need to slow the alt down even more....

Although not as low as your 4.62,, with a 4.37 diff - I have enough revs to keep the thing working!

Keep you posted, I'll get back on this next week.

Byron

[MikeY]

Notice it say assembled in Mexico, not made there. I'd bet Chinese parts. Don't get me going on country of origin labeling.

[510rob]

Byron, V-Belt sheave dimensions are all in the Machinery's Handbook. The angle of the groove is a function of the pulley diameter.

[510rob]

bah! here is the other chart...

[Byron510]

Well, I learned yesterday that my new impact gun is really capable, without a whole lot of effort!

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Damn! These things have elevated above toys, power is getting serious!

I ended up getting another new alternator... not sure what to think about this one...

I did further underdrive the Alt another 30%, more to come. Rob, thanks for the information in the Machinery Handbook that was right beside me all along. 36 degrees it was for a 3 1-2” pulley.

Byron

[two_68_510s]

Nice tool, mine is a giant Chinese one, need to upgrade!

[iceD]

There must be an update isn’t there a new engine

iceD

[510rob]

There must be an update isn’t there a new engine

iceD

+1