Whitebird

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icehouse
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Re: Whitebird

Post by icehouse » 23 Sep 2014 15:00

I've never used that method. Since we had a lack of tools (his house) I used a heater hose with a funnel. With the funnel hooked to the fitting where the filter goes I filled it and spun the engine backwards (plugs out to make it easier) and watched the oil get sucked lower and lower in the funnel as the engine spun. After doing this for a while we re installed the filter and cranked the engine over. It never pumped oil.. I really don't see why it wouldn't if the pump was primed.... Does that seem odd to you?
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okayfine
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Re: Whitebird

Post by okayfine » 23 Sep 2014 16:04

It does. If the pump was primed, it should have held the prime as you removed the hose and installed the filter - engines don't lose their prime when you change an oil filter. Was there oil in the sump? Or did the oil you put into the hose and back into the engine just go into the sump and expose the pickup? If the sump was full, I have no explanation. Even if the sump wasn't full, after a little bit you'd have put enough oil in to cover the pick-up tube.
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Re: Whitebird

Post by 510rob » 23 Sep 2014 18:20

okayfine wrote:If I didn't have friends who knew things, where would I be?
me too!

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icehouse
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Re: Whitebird

Post by icehouse » 23 Sep 2014 21:40

okayfine wrote:It does. If the pump was primed, it should have held the prime as you removed the hose and installed the filter - engines don't lose their prime when you change an oil filter. Was there oil in the sump? Or did the oil you put into the hose and back into the engine just go into the sump and expose the pickup? If the sump was full, I have no explanation. Even if the sump wasn't full, after a little bit you'd have put enough oil in to cover the pick-up tube.
Yeah the motor was full. I don't know what the deal was. He pulled the pan and made sure the pickup was there and inspected everything. Even checked for a gasket on the pickup. Still no luck.
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Byron510
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Re: Whitebird

Post by Byron510 » 23 Sep 2014 22:34

icehouse wrote:
okayfine wrote:It does. If the pump was primed, it should have held the prime as you removed the hose and installed the filter - engines don't lose their prime when you change an oil filter. Was there oil in the sump? Or did the oil you put into the hose and back into the engine just go into the sump and expose the pickup? If the sump was full, I have no explanation. Even if the sump wasn't full, after a little bit you'd have put enough oil in to cover the pick-up tube.
Yeah the motor was full. I don't know what the deal was. He pulled the pan and made sure the pickup was there and inspected everything. Even checked for a gasket on the pickup. Still no luck.
Oil pressure gauge working??.....
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Re: Oil Circuit Primer

Post by Three B's Racing » 24 Sep 2014 05:45

[quote="okayfine"]Here's the picture of what I'm using. It's essentially a pressurized bottle, probably similar to what you were using.

Oil goes in the bottle, 10psi pressure gets connected to the fitting with the black handle, oil goes out the clear tube with the green handle. Fitting at the end of the clear tube connects to the oil pressure sensor port (this fitting is actually 1/8NPT, but it's the same first 2-3 threads as 1/8BSP, and it works fine at 10psi).

So, fill the bottle, valve in the pressurized air, valve in the oil to the port. Takes 1-1.5 quarts, and I just listen for the gurgling through the valve cover oil filler.

[quote]

Hot Dang that's a nice setup. When Kelvin Dietz did his SR20DE in his wagon just about the time I was doing mine, he had the same issue as you, No Oil Pressure. Kel removed the oil filter plate and stuck a hose in and poured the oil and it worked great at next start. I guess my engine wasn't sitting very long because I simply pulled the plugs and ran the starter and after a good 10 revolutions oil started spurting out the spray bars NICE!!

I know what City you live in Julian just not what is around and distances. Soda blast the bee och!!!
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81GER
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Re: Whitebird

Post by 81GER » 25 Sep 2014 02:55

Your 510 is looking good Julian good work, i hope all is well :)
1968 DATSUN 510/1600 SEDAN,S15 SR20DE AUTECH + 6SPD + R180

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okayfine
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Re: Whitebird

Post by okayfine » 25 Sep 2014 07:07

Hey Brett, just one more wire...
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okayfine
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One step forward

Post by okayfine » 26 Sep 2014 15:52

One step back.

Finished the wiring today. Engine cranked, but didn't try to start. Occasional backfire. Sounded like timing (even though it shouldn't be an issue here) and brought the engine to TDC and looked at the CAS - WAY off. R&R the CAS and set it up proper.

Engine cranks and now tries to light off, but fails.

Pulled the injector plugs off, measured resistance between the terminals. All measured somewhere in the 11ohm range, so by FSM that's fine. Then did the 9v click test. #2 injector does not click.

I can't see the engine not started because of one dead injector. Misfire, obviously, but it should still light off. Thoughts on other components to check?
Because when you spend a silly amount of money on a silly, trivial thing that will help you not one jot, you are demonstrating that you have a soul and a heart and that you are the sort of person who has no time for Which? magazine. – Jeremy Clarkson

goichi1
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Re: Whitebird

Post by goichi1 » 26 Sep 2014 23:20

DO you have fuel pressure? is the fuel moving through the rail the correct direction? Can you hear the fuel pump running with the key on?

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finn
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Re: Whitebird

Post by finn » 26 Sep 2014 23:35

you checked for vacuum leaks on the throttle body and intake manifold I take it? one step you can perform is to keep the injectors installed but lift the fuel rail off the manifold and turn the key to on and see if there's an injector leak.
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spriso
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Re: Whitebird

Post by spriso » 26 Sep 2014 23:38

Julian,

A few other things to check:

1. Did you hook up the "Start" wire-- I am on the road, so I don't have my schematic in front of me, but typically it is an orange wire that is spliced with the 510 black/yellow "start" wire that goes to the starter solenoid. Many people miss that this should be spliced into the system, otherwise the ECU does not know "hey, ok, we are starting now"...

2. Spark-- manually check that you have spark on all four cylinders. Take the cap off and inspect the rotor as well. We once had a SR that had the timing wheel on the CAS on backwards (hint, the Hitachi logo goes on the outside-- that one took awhile to figure out).

3. If you have spark, and you are sure you have the CAS timed correctly, then all you need is fuel. People hook up the fuel lines backwards all the time (the return lines connects to the fuel pressure regulator (most people connect it to the feed line). Triple check that is correct.

Keep us updated, it will likely be something silly...

Michael
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okayfine
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Re: Whitebird

Post by okayfine » 27 Sep 2014 08:17

Fuel - Fuel pump primes as it should when key is ON. The CAN/AM board fuel pump relay LED lights up when key ON and START, so I assume I have fuel when key is at START. I have fuel flow at the fuel rail, I pulled the supply hose and directed it in a bottle. Fuel gushed when key was ON. I have not verified pressure, however.

AFAIK there are no vacuum leaks. Unneeded vac nipples at the TB have been capped. It isn't something I actually checked as such, however. Still, I've had vac leaks before and still drove the car. This I can't even get started.

START wire (orange) is hooked up. It was one wire I mistakenly trimmed during paring of the ECU harness, but I corrected that yesterday. Continuity measured between the connection at the ignition switch and the ECU plug pin.

SPARK - I have checked for spark at one cylinder to ensure the coil was firing, but not all cylinders. Easy enough to do, so I will do that.

FPR - I have the FWD SR fuel rail on my SR, but the supply from the pump feeds the rail and not the FPR. Will check again.

Just verifying that the ECU LED turns off during key START. The interwebs is surprisingly vague on that point.
Last edited by okayfine on 27 Sep 2014 09:48, edited 1 time in total.
Because when you spend a silly amount of money on a silly, trivial thing that will help you not one jot, you are demonstrating that you have a soul and a heart and that you are the sort of person who has no time for Which? magazine. – Jeremy Clarkson

2DoorJim
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Re: Whitebird

Post by 2DoorJim » 27 Sep 2014 09:35

okayfine wrote: FPR - I have the FWD SR fuel rail on my SR, but the supply from the pump feeds the rail and not the FPR. Will check again.

Julian, you might have confused Michael's comment. What you state you have above, is correct. Pump feeds fuel rail. FPR discharge returns to tank.

Maybe I'm confused, which is normal!

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okayfine
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Re: Whitebird

Post by okayfine » 27 Sep 2014 09:51

Hey Jim,

Just clarifying, really. RWD SRs have the fuel feed to the rail in the middle, but my setup (which Michael is familiar with) has the FWD SR fuel rail, which has the inlet and outlet right next to each other, so it is easier to mix them up in my case.

Verified spark at the end of each plug wire. Removed the fuel rail and turned key to ON, no fuel/no stuck-open injector.
Because when you spend a silly amount of money on a silly, trivial thing that will help you not one jot, you are demonstrating that you have a soul and a heart and that you are the sort of person who has no time for Which? magazine. – Jeremy Clarkson

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