1972 510 2dr --STRESS RELIEF--

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proflex
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Re: 1972 510 2dr --STRESS RELIEF--

Post by proflex » 06 Sep 2010 11:29

defdes wrote:How are those round depressions made a the intersection of the "X"?
tycot1 wrote:a press? maybe? ??? looks very nice.
Thanks...

Tycot1 is right you do need a press but everything else is easily made. You can make a stamp and die on a lathe for this or try the setup below that I used. I would have made something on our old lathe at work but for doing only two depressions it did the job. {A made up stamp and die would be more self centering and a better tool.}
1- Bottom die. Find a flat ring of metal that has an inside diameter of the top part of the depression to be stamped. This flat ring must also be the same depth as your stamping. {I used a speed sensor ring off a rear dif. axle but something like a cut down ring from a bearing would work as well.}
2- Top stamp. Find/make a circle of metal { round stock} with a flat bottom and top {hockey puck shaped} the size of the bottom of the stamping. Again the same depth as your stamping. If you want more of a funnel shape to the sides of your stamped depression go smaller on this piece.
3- Center punch the area on your sheet metal. Mount everything in press as follows starting at the bottom. –large flat plate- the large ring [centered under your center punch mark}-sheet metal – smaller stamp {centered over your mark} and another flat plate or block at least 2x as large as the large ring. Press everything just a little bit and check if everything looks to be centered {very hard to do} Adjust if needed.
4- Press away.

TIPS =stamp hole before bead rolling!
= experiment with different size rings etc... on scrap metal until you get good at it and know how your setup is going to work.
=Use sunroof rim sealer/ tar/? to glue/hold large ring centered under sheet metal.
=shim around lower ring under sheet metal if metal wants to deform too badly.
*= to make flared speed holes just drill large hole first and press top die or large socket through hole using a beeper lower ring on the bottom.

Chad
Last edited by proflex on 27 Mar 2012 16:15, edited 1 time in total.
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proflex
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Re: 1972 510 2dr --STRESS RELIEF--

Post by proflex » 12 Sep 2010 17:14

Made a day of it yesterday and drove into Van and stopped in at princess auto and then Specialty Engineering to ask about some of the parts that I’m going to need later on for my 510. Had a nice talk with Tracey and a quick tour of the new shop. Very nice shop = clean and setup very well. While I was here I did meet Keith who was working on his 510 out back. I remember Keith having this same car at some of the AutoX they used to have at our Sears parking lot back in the mid 80s. My friends and I used to love watching these Autox and afterword would walk the pits looking at all the cool cars. I always noticed Keith’s car because it looked similar to mine with its bright red paint and body parts from Specialty. Being only 17 at the time I used to drool over his engine bay wishing for the day I would be able to have {afford} all the cool parts and gadgets that he had on his car. My hat goes off to you Keith for keeping/maintaining this beautiful car for all these years and never selling it.

I did meet Keith again later on to pick up one of the new Pilkington windshields. Boxed it up and headed home after Keith showed me around his work place. I did check it out after I got it home {safely} and then boxed it up better for storage. I’m glad to have a good windshield that will hopefully stand up to rock chips and not haze over like the cheep offshore stuff. Having my licence to do Auto inspections I like that this glass is also stamped DOT, it also gives an indication as to the quality of these windshields.{I’m hoping}

I did trim the floor parts to slip into place this week. Just need to prep/ welding them in.
I’m having trouble finding bolts that I like for the top four fender bolt. I’m looking for a stainless bolt with a large flat {rounded?} head. I have not found anything that has a wide enough head in the smaller size bolts. I need to weld some nuts onto the top fender mount area but I’m holding off until I find some bolt. Maybe you guys have some suggestions for these bolts? :?:

Chad
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hang_510
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Re: 1972 510 2dr --STRESS RELIEF--

Post by hang_510 » 13 Sep 2010 09:42

proflex wrote: Have you tried looking for a donor car for the parts you need or maybe try posting up a wanted ad.

I get way more enjoyment out of working on a build learning how to make and fix things myself, rather than paying someone to do the work.
wasted ~2mos waiting to get it... and it arrived sounding like a maraca :evil:
poured out enough rust chunks to cover a 8.5X11 sheet of paper. :roll:

i would pay once, and learn something. ive already learned i suck at bodywork.

its not even gonna be noticeable once the fenders on, but i havent attempted a home repair...yet.
byron wrote:I'd be all over that like a fat kid on a smartie.
okayfine wrote:Sense doesn't always have everything to do with it, and I speak from experience.

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510Freak
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Re: 1972 510 2dr --STRESS RELIEF--

Post by 510Freak » 14 Sep 2010 19:23

Car looks like it in very capable hands 8)

This one came from Nanaimo area? yeh?
It is from the Cumberland(Courtenay) area,It had a new 1/4 put on one side, a girl used to drive it in Ladysmith all the time. 8)
.

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proflex
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Re: 1972 510 2dr --STRESS RELIEF--

Post by proflex » 14 Sep 2010 23:09

510Freak wrote:Car looks like it in very capable hands 8)

This one came from Nanaimo area? yeh?
It is from the Cumberland(Courtenay) area,It had a new 1/4 put on one side, a girl used to drive it in Ladysmith all the time. 8)
Thanks,

Sounds like the same car.

The left side lower ¼ {below the white trim} had been partially resprayed to try and cover up the repair to the wheel well lip. When I first saw this I too thought that part of the ¼ might have been replaced. Fortunately after spending some time looking at the car very closely , it turns out that the left wheel lip had been repaired { very poorly I might add} with a crappy respray over only part of the ¼ panel. Both 1/4s are still the original factory panels. Very easy to tell after the car was disassembled and the insides of the panels could be seen. They still have the proper factory spot welds and fitment running around entire panels \ proper factory inner panel spray/ sealers / etc... etc... with no signs of ever being replaced. :) Good but this still leaves me with the problem of fixing the wheel lip and some lower rust. :(

To fix the rust in this area I can make the front lower ¼ sill area as well as replace the lower rear ¼ areas with the patch panels that are coming with the rest of Byron’s big Datsport order. The big problem will be fixing this L/wheel lip. If a solution is not found after I strip this area I will have to flare the car which will remove all of the problem area in this lip. = {grafted metal flares / BRE flares / Carbon fibre bolt on} I will try to save it first but it may go either way at this point in time. :|

Chad
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Re: 1972 510 2dr --STRESS RELIEF--

Post by hang_510 » 15 Sep 2010 11:44

proflex wrote:If a solution is not found after I strip this area I will have to flare the car which will remove all of the problem area in this lip. = {grafted metal flares / BRE flares / Carbon fibre bolt on} I will try to save it first but it may go either way at this point in time. :|

Chad
i have a fender w/a solid lip, ive used it for practice welding...
byron wrote:I'd be all over that like a fat kid on a smartie.
okayfine wrote:Sense doesn't always have everything to do with it, and I speak from experience.

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Re: 1972 510 2dr --STRESS RELIEF--

Post by proflex » 25 Sep 2010 17:56

No more Freddy Flintstone floorboards. :lol: Front floors are finally welded in. I still need to clean some areas up a little more with a flap disc but they’re good enough for now. Seams etc... need to be seam sealed and smoothed out also, but that will be left for the bodywork stage. I did give the bare metal a dusting of etching primer for the time being to help keep the rust away.

Sills, rear lower 1/4s and trunk/battery box will be next on my list. I think I’m just over the hump on the sheet metal work, thank God. Its taking longer than I thought it would. Maybe I’m being too picky about taking the rust out and then changing some things around a little.

Put the beetle away into its winter storage area this week so I had to move my extra suspension parts out of the way to make room. I started to break them up and pick out the nicest pieces so they can be cleaned before the suspension mods begin.
I know you guys like pictures so I will add some tonight, but I have to go for dinner at the in-laws first. :|

Chad
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proflex
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Re: 1972 510 2dr --STRESS RELIEF--

Post by proflex » 25 Sep 2010 21:15

:)
Attachments
IMG_0995-2.JPG
wheel well and inner sill parts already welded in
IMG_1089 1.JPG
L floor ...... after welding, grinding , flap dics and then primer
IMG_1076-2.JPG
floors finished .....................
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jason
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Re: 1972 510 2dr --STRESS RELIEF--

Post by jason » 25 Sep 2010 21:42

Nice work!
Jason

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butters68
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Re: 1972 510 2dr --STRESS RELIEF--

Post by butters68 » 25 Sep 2010 22:13

looks good . 8)
ding ding dong dong all night long long.

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proflex
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Re: 1972 510 2dr --STRESS RELIEF--

Post by proflex » 26 Sep 2010 21:09

Thanks guys . :)

Chad

PS ---Jason I gave Byron the parts you needed. I hope they work out for you.
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Re: 1972 510 2dr --STRESS RELIEF--

Post by jason » 26 Sep 2010 21:43

Thanks Chad, muchly appreciated, I hope to put a new hood on the car next week!
Jason

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Re: 1972 510 2dr --STRESS RELIEF--

Post by proflex » 04 Oct 2010 22:21

Worked on the suspension a little this last week. Removed the springs and bumpers on left side to get some suspension starting point measurements. Tire {195/60 13} has only 55 mm of room left {60mm if trimmed up some} at the inner fender/strut area at full travel with stock suspension/no bump stop. With a 280zx insert {strut length to match} , lower in height camber plates, and a bit taller/wider tire it looks like this 55mm would be all used up and then some. Why do some guys use inserts/strut shorter than the 280zx inserts if there is no more usable area for wheel travel? Maybe my measurements are off? Either way the 280 inserts look like my best option at this point in time.

I have this week off so I’m planning on doing some Coho fishing and maybe work on the car some more. I’m also going to try and check the rates of some of my spare springs. Just out of curiosity I’m also going to check the rate of the stock springs in the spring checker/press. I will post the numbers later if you guys would like to know what I come up with.

Chad
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Re: 1972 510 2dr --STRESS RELIEF--

Post by thisismatt » 04 Oct 2010 22:33

People do run much shorter sidewall tires, so that plays into it. Dial in some more caster and that will increase your actual strut travel a little as well. Then depending on top hat/camber plate location, that might push the upper strut mounting location downward some.
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proflex
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Re: 1972 510 2dr --STRESS RELIEF--

Post by proflex » 10 Oct 2010 14:47

thisismatt wrote:People do run much shorter sidewall tires, so that plays into it. Dial in some more caster and that will increase your actual strut travel a little as well. Then depending on top hat/camber plate location, that might push the upper strut mounting location downward some.
Make sense, I guess it all depends on the parts used in the suspension and wheel package.

Enjoyed my time off from work this week and only worked on the 510 a little yesterday. {Needed a break from the car.} Made up some smaller sheet metal parts, marked out the metal for the sills and sent out some emails inquiring about some flares for the car.
I had earlier stripped the paint and filler on the left rear wheel lip to see what I was up against and found the lower part of the lip had been replaced with new metal scabbed into place and then covered with filler. :( I finally decided this week that removing the lip and inner fender and then flaring is my best option. I can run the rims and tires I want {with proper camber settings} and get rid of the damage and any rust inside the lips all at once.
Checked my spare rear springs this week and found that they are only a little stiffer then the stock springs. I also checked the spring rate of the stock springs just for fun. I will post my results in the suspension section later on.

Chad
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IMG_1165 (5).JPG
Spring rate tester
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