1972 510 2dr --STRESS RELIEF--

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proflex
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Re: 1972 510 2dr --STRESS RELIEF--

Post by proflex » 24 Oct 2010 21:38

After my nice break away from working on the 510 I decided to start going at it again. Welded in some smaller patches in the corners of the rear floor and sill areas. Cleaned up the rear floors and gave some smaller areas some rust-mort. Bent up the sill pieces at the roofing place down the road from work. My hand brake was too small so Mark {thanks Mark} let me use their old 15 foot+ brake to do the job. I did change up the very bottom of the sills so they will cover/hide the seam at the bottom of the sill.
Thanks to the rear window seal leaking water on the right side I had to cut out an area of rot that was hidden under the tar board under the right rear seat area. Had some fun today :roll: hand making this boomerang shaped piece and then rough fitting it into place. I rough fitted the sills last week so I probably will have the sills and all the inside passenger area buttoned up the next time I do some more welding. Just filled up the argon and put a new large spool of wire into the welder so I’m ready to show this thing no mercy. Die rust die............................. :twisted:

Chad
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sills rough fitted in...
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IMG_1183.JPG
no more ugly lower sill seam...
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proflex
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Re: 1972 510 2dr --STRESS RELIEF--

Post by proflex » 24 Oct 2010 21:42

:)
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proflex
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Re: 1972 510 2dr --STRESS RELIEF--

Post by proflex » 10 Nov 2010 23:24

Some pics of some more work done in the last couple of weeks. Floor mounted handbrake and some more welding coming in the next week. :)
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Inner sides of panels and sills prepped for welding.
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Front sills welded in.
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proflex
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Re: 1972 510 2dr --STRESS RELIEF--

Post by proflex » 18 Nov 2010 23:22

Did some more work to the car this week.----- Drove into Van. on Monday to pick up some 510 parts and then stopped in to have a look at Butters. {Cars looking good Mike 8) } Cleaned off the factory contact glue from inside the car with some gas and a lot of scrubbing. Only took 4 hours. :x Rustmorted some more areas. Started on the metal work in the trunk area. Marked out the rear battery box location. Sand blasted some small areas in trunk and rear of the car. What a mess. Welded in the front and rear lower 1/4s. Made up the parts for the hand brake and started the install. I’m hoping to have the ebrake finished by tomorrow so I will try and have some pics up this weekend.

Chad
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IMG_1287.JPG
Some panels from Datsport will help me save some time. Thanks Byron
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butters68
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Re: 1972 510 2dr --STRESS RELIEF--

Post by butters68 » 20 Nov 2010 19:05

is she ready for paint yet. :P
ding ding dong dong all night long long.

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proflex
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Re: 1972 510 2dr --STRESS RELIEF--

Post by proflex » 20 Nov 2010 19:14

Finished the floor mounted hand brake yesterday. I wanted to change the hand brake location from the dash to the floor tunnel which would improve its location as well as freeing up the dash mounted handle for something else I have planned for the car. I started by looking for an 80-83 200sx setup that Byron and some other forum members had recommended. Having no luck finding one locally, I started looking through cars at the wrecker and found a handle like the 200sx in a Nissan Micra {82-91 k10}. Interestingly, it had a cable on it that looked like the one used in the Datsport kit, but was too short. Having a handle that would work now, I next tried locally to order the cable for a 200sx, as well as a 78-81 510 {has a similar cable} but again had no luck. I was about to order a cable from the USA when I came across a Nissan with the proper handle, a cable that looked just like the one in the Datsport kit, and this time luckily was the proper length. My long search through parts books and cars at the wrecker for a setup that would work had finally paid off. :D

Installation-
Installation was fairly straight forward. I read through the Ausy online instructions and then proceeded to slot the floor in the proper location for the cable. Next the flat lower mount on the cable housing needed to be bent up to fit the contour of the floor/tunnel where it passes through the new slot in the floor. With the cable hooked up using a spare clevis off a 510 rear cable end, the cable was adjusted to the right location in the slot and the two holes drilled to mount it to the floor. I wanted the handle to be solid so I made up some plates, one for under the handle and one with four captive nuts for the underside of the tunnel. Next the handle was positioned on top of the tunnel, a few more holes, and some stainless hardware, and everything was working great.

Fine Tuning Setup
The leverage ratio of this set up seems to be ok. There may be a little too much handle movement to achieve full e brake application, so after the car is reassembled, and has had the brakes gone through I will recheck it again. If needed I can change the ratio by moving the location were the rear cables are mounted to the center lever assembly {lever under the car}. Just drill a new hole in the lever {closer to the end were the front cable is connected} and then move the rear cables over to this new connection point/hole. This will make the e brake handle pull more cable for a given amount of handle movement, make it seem less spongy, and will make it have less movement to achieve full ebrake application.
Note --- If you move this new mounting hole to much the handle may become too stiff and posably not have enough power/leverage ratio to hold the ebrake on strong enough. Finding the right spot on the lever to put the new hole will be the key to a good working setup.

So with this small project done I have finally been able to doing some work to the 510 that I enjoy doing, modifications and fabricating parts. Way more fun than banging on sheet metal all day.

Chad
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butters68
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Re: 1972 510 2dr --STRESS RELIEF--

Post by butters68 » 20 Nov 2010 19:20

so does that hook up to the stock rear set up ?do you think that would fix my set up?
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McShagger510
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Re: 1972 510 2dr --STRESS RELIEF--

Post by McShagger510 » 20 Nov 2010 23:25

Good job dude! Luvin' dis build.

James
The person with the sun in their eyes has the right of way. - my brother

'72 2dr. 510 Turbo
'73 240Z all stock
'71 2dr. 510 stock......for now
'91 Nissan truck
'78 Kawasaki Z1-R
'84 Kawasaki GPZ750 Turbo
'99 Kawasaki ZRX1100

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Byron510
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Re: 1972 510 2dr --STRESS RELIEF--

Post by Byron510 » 21 Nov 2010 07:13

proflex wrote: I came across a Nissan with the proper handle, a cable that looked just like the one in the Datsport kit, and this time luckily was the proper length. Chad
So I'm curious - what car did you find this cable in?

Nice mounting job. I've done a very similar install using the 200SX hand brake a few times. It's nice to have all the cables connect without some micky mouse intermediate pieces.

Car looks like it's coming along good. Did you make those rear 1/4 patch panels yourself? They looked good in the photos.

I'm off to work on my brothers 510 again this morning....

Byron
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proflex
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Re: 1972 510 2dr --STRESS RELIEF--

Post by proflex » 21 Nov 2010 23:09

butters68 wrote:so does that hook up to the stock rear set up ?do you think that would fix my set up?
Yes, it replaces everything up to the lever under the car and uses the rest of the stock rear setup Mike. I would think that finding a front cable for butters would be much less work for you though.
McShagger510 wrote:Good job dude! Luvin' dis build.

James
Thanks.... :)
Byron510 wrote:So I'm curious - what car did you find this cable in?

Nice mounting job. I've done a very similar install using the 200SX hand brake a few times. It's nice to have all the cables connect without some micky mouse intermediate pieces.

Car looks like it's coming along good. Did you make those rear 1/4 patch panels yourself? They looked good in the photos

The handle and cable are out of a 1982 Nissan Sentra = {B11 1982-1986 Nissan Sentra}... you can also use a handle out of a Nissan Micra {the handles are identical and there is tons of them in the wreckers} by removing the short cable and replacing it with the Sentra cable.

Like I mentioned in the one pic the rear ¼ patch panels are from Datsport. Byron was kind enough to order some of these for me which he added to his rather large order from Datsport. The front lower 1/4s I made up myself.

It’s getting cool in the garage now that winter’s started, had to add some more heat with an extra space heater, but I did manage this weekend to make up some side pieces for the inside of the trunk as well as a sweet looking battery box. The sheet metal is close to being done. Just a little more work to some smaller areas, building out the front fenders at the bottom to blend into the sills, and weld up the trunk, inner fenders, as well as about a hundred small bolt holes.

Chad
Last edited by proflex on 27 Mar 2012 16:30, edited 1 time in total.
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proflex
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Re: 1972 510 2dr --STRESS RELIEF--

Post by proflex » 01 Dec 2010 23:14

This last Sunday I spent 4 hours grinding and smoothing out some welds on the car. The ¼ patches came out looking pretty good. I’ve been putting a small step with the bead roller on some of the edges of the patch panels to allow both panel surfaces to be flush with each other when using an overlapping connection. Seems to be worth the extra step.
Received my flares in the mail last week :) – now I can finally finish off the 1/4 panels and wheel wells. I’ve started trimming things up for the rear flares but I’m having trouble deciding how I’m going to reattach the ¼ panels to the inner fenders after they are clearanced.
So I finally need some help from you guys. I’m hoping some of you with cars that were maybe flared back in the 80s could give me a hand and tell me how your inner fenders were done. I did make up a pic of what I’m thinking are my options so far, but I’m not too sure in what direction I should go, or if I have missed a better way of doing this.
= A B & C ? Or maybe some other way? Things could be spot welded or plug welded every half inch or so or maybe even fully welded in? Seam sealer could be used to seal things up after words? I was also thinking panel bonding adhesive could maybe be used in these areas. Just too many options at this point. :?

Chad
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IMG_1449.JPG
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IMG_1484.JPG
Front weld smoothed out. 1/4 trimmed up for flare job. Still need to take a little more off for more tire clearance.
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IMG_1465.JPG
new flares
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thisismatt
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Re: 1972 510 2dr --STRESS RELIEF--

Post by thisismatt » 02 Dec 2010 19:02

Why not sheet metal the gap completely? I'm not sure I fully understand your drawing...how are you thinking of filling the gaping hole? On my never-ending project I've cut out the wheel well to that middle seam, then done a tub of sheetmetal running horizontally from that seam towards the exterior, then straight down to the exterior lip edge. In your case you could perhaps cut out more of the exterior depending on how your flares fit and how much suspension travel into the wheel wells you will have, depending on wheel & tire size of course. It's odd how deep (tall?) the wheel wells are considering how tall of a wheel/tire combo you'd need to actually hit the top before the control arm bottoms out on the body. Here's a pic (needs more love):

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proflex
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Re: 1972 510 2dr --STRESS RELIEF--

Post by proflex » 02 Dec 2010 22:10

Thisismatt I was going to fill this area of the inner fender with sheet metal similar to what you have done in your pic. I’m going to trim a little more off the inner fender so it will be about an inch from the middle pinch seam. The part I’m going to make will be connected to this 1 inch of inner fender and run straight out to the ¼ panel {similar to yours} and it will be connected to the ¼ panel about ¾ of an inch or so above the trimmed wheel opening. This will leave enough room for the tire to travel up and in behind the ¼ panel.
The main question I’m asking is what would be the best way to connect this made up piece to the ¼ panel. I’m thinking probably B or C in my pic. A would be easier to do though.
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indy510
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Re: 1972 510 2dr --STRESS RELIEF--

Post by indy510 » 02 Dec 2010 22:18

.
Before you do anything............ I would check for tire clearance at full drop ........ it looks like you might want to cut more if you ever plan to run bigger tires/wheels

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proflex
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Re: 1972 510 2dr --STRESS RELIEF--

Post by proflex » 02 Dec 2010 22:34

indy510 wrote:.
Before you do anything............ I would check for tire clearance at full drop ........ it looks like you might want to cut more if you ever plan to run bigger tires/wheels
Yes, I did that last night and the wheel opening does need to be opened up some more. My flares are going on just below the body line so I'm going to clearance the wheel opening to 20mm below the body line and around etc... The tire will be hitting the flare first anyways past this measurement.
Last edited by proflex on 02 Dec 2010 22:51, edited 1 time in total.
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