RMS wrote: but with the rolls you get an off switch..... I should run some fiber optics up the b pillar from a color shift Christmas light, get the full 12k experience.
drilled out a 5/16th comp fitting with a 1/8th thread for the fan sw cathode. no more messing with it in the upper hose. glad I got the koyo rad.
Fist bath :
Robyn, can you explain a bit more how you got that fan switch to work in your Koyo radiator? I gave up on that idea and decided to put it in the thermostat housing but ideally I would have it where you do. Beautiful car. I'm gonna go to the beginning of this thread and start reading.
I used a 5/16th compression with a 1/8th fitting. I started by drilling out the fitting (in a vice)from the line stop below the taper I used a 64th in larger drill bit as the cathode was too tight @ 5/16th. with the fitting drilled all the way through I slid the cap over the cathode fought with the very tight fitting copper crush sleeve...some steel wool was needed on the cathode.. then I slid the cathode into the fitting and tightened by hand not wanting to crush the cathode I put coolant in the rad and waited for a leak. then I started the car got her to temp with a 18lb rad cap and waited for a leak that never came. now I did do a bad thing.....I used a tap.... the fitting in the rad is 1/8th bsp and the comp fitting I used was 1/8th standard.
two_68_510s wrote:I guess our donkeys are quicker then your sled dogs!
Much appreciated Robyn - that makes a lot of sense. I actually have a 1/8" npt switch (since that's what Koyorad advertises that opening to be) but when I went to put it in it naturally didn't fit. I thought about tapping it but I was worried. Any secrets to avoid getting the tapping shavings in your radiator?
Also do you have any more photos of your E30 seat mounts you made? I just bought a set of E30 sets last weekend and I was thinking of building a set similar to what did but anything I could learn from yours would definetly be helpful.i am mostly trying to figure out how to get proper measurements to get the seats to sit right with the uneven floor.
I have been reading through your thread and the attention to detail on your car is unreal - you are a mad man!
If'n you're short (enough) you can mount the E30 seats directly to the 510 seat risers. My 5'8" wife was plenty happy with her seat mounted such. I, at 6'1" and taller of torso, had to drop the risers 1.25" down to accommodate my mop and still allow the fore/aft adjuster to peek over the front cross brace.
Because when you spend a silly amount of money on a silly, trivial thing that will help you not one jot, you are demonstrating that you have a soul and a heart and that you are the sort of person who has no time for Which? magazine. – Jeremy Clarkson
Thanks Julian. When I saw your Whitebird and sat in it is when I fell in love with those seats. I read your installation instructions many times but was having a hard time envisioning how you sectioned your drivers side bracket. Do you have photos of the bracket?
I am about 6' 1" but I plan on doing some auto cross and track so I want to make sure I have enough headroom to comfortably wear a helmet. When I mocked it up with some wood scraps I had the e30 rails ~1" off the floor and the tracks had to sit behind the 510 cross support so it seemed I would have to take an approach similar to what Robyn did.
Sorry guys, I didn't intend to thread jack here, should I start a separate post?
my brackets are super simple. granted I messed up and some holes need elongating. passenger side worked out fine
I bent up some 1 1/2in wide flat bar(I wanted 1 3/4in) and welded it to a few inches of 2x1 box on the outer and 1x1 on the inner. I then gusseted the bottom side of the rear.( I will need to pull the seats and add a little triangle at the kick( get a little bounce). @ 2in from the floor I did need to bend the lever a small amount.
@ 6.1 and a bit I have plenty of head room, even supporting a fedora (in low with back strait). however I may bend the lever more, make new brackets with 1 1/2 outer and 1/2in inner and 2in flat bar. then tack it together in a car.
two_68_510s wrote:I guess our donkeys are quicker then your sled dogs!
Thank you so much Robyn that is extremley helpful, I really appreciate you taking the time to do that. Do your seats sit pretty flat front to back or are they kicked up in the front?
Great work Robyn! Can't wait to see it rollin' on the road with us - missed you & Mandy today on our little cruise.
Gotta stop by sometime after work - which day is best??
James
The person with the sun in their eyes has the right of way. - my brother
'72 2dr. 510 Turbo
'73 240Z all stock
'71 2dr. 510 stock......for now
'91 Nissan truck *SOLD*
'02 TOYOTA Tacoma
'78 Kawasaki Z1-R
'84 Kawasaki GPZ750 Turbo
'99 Kawasaki ZRX1100
yes sir! flat decked her to him on Thursday night, picked her up on Friday. toe in and camber was set on the rear. I was a spline off center on the box and the link was favoring the drivers side. no turning of tc rods needed. in and out in in a few hours.
we talked a bit about my throttle linkage and decided to keep with what I had come up with. as it would be hard to get a good pull on a cable with the carbs so close to the hood.
left on the list is :
attach garnish with nylon D bolts
set strut drop bump so the springs stay tight
adjust passenger lock mechanism (it too tight)
carpet, inner rocker vinyl, bolt down console
wait for the newly covered rear seat base then install.
poor vacuum signal. manifold will need to be pulled and the balance bar drilled and filled
pour in gas, check for leaks
nut and bolt check
appraisal
insurance
two_68_510s wrote:I guess our donkeys are quicker then your sled dogs!
back in December I got a shipment of rubber goods from Baz @ Datsport. with warmer weather and no wind I was able to get the booth up to 18 and install the door seals
the soft supple rubber added a new dimension to the installation. the old or nos seals I have previously worked with easily popped into the holders with a push and roll. no chance with the good stuff.... almost pulled out the soap and water but managed to efficiently push in the seal with the aid of of a credit card. used the 3m yellow trim glue and a bit of tape. once dry I closed some masking paper in the doors so I could train the seals.
I loved all the goodies that came with my order from Datsport but im sad to say I dont think I will use the key chain...I would be waiting for some time for my keys to do a world tour. I know i will put it on the womans keys
two_68_510s wrote:I guess our donkeys are quicker then your sled dogs!
but with the rolls you get an off switch..... I should run some fiber optics up the b pillar from a color shift Christmas light, get the full 12k experience.
I know i will put it on the womans keys 