68 CDN going to be all like JDM yo!
Re: 68 CDN going to be all like JDM yo!
just carpet no soundproofing........ I have quiet quiet datsuns
two_68_510s wrote:I guess our donkeys are quicker then your sled dogs!
- TheHeretic
- Supporter
- Posts: 222
- Joined: 20 Nov 2014 13:55
- Location: Pleasant Hill, CA
Re: 68 CDN going to be all like JDM yo!
What is the masking paper for when you closed the doors?
Carpe Diem!
Ryan
Ryan
Re: 68 CDN going to be all like JDM yo!
to train the seal. when first trying to close the door the leading edge of the seal wanted to curl the wrong way (towards the in side of the car) rather than laying flat. I slowly closed the door wile pulling on the paper forcing the seal to be directed the way I wanted it to flow. on many of my 510s the factory seal on the leading edge would be rolled or kinked giving an uneven black line between the door and door opening
two_68_510s wrote:I guess our donkeys are quicker then your sled dogs!
- McShagger510
- Posts: 1821
- Joined: 26 Mar 2004 20:55
- Location: East Van, Canada
Re: 68 CDN going to be all like JDM yo!
RMS wrote:to train the seal.
The person with the sun in their eyes has the right of way. - my brother
'72 2dr. 510 Turbo
'73 240Z all stock
'71 2dr. 510 stock......for now
'91 Nissan truck *SOLD*
'02 TOYOTA Tacoma
'78 Kawasaki Z1-R
'84 Kawasaki GPZ750 Turbo
'99 Kawasaki ZRX1100
'72 2dr. 510 Turbo
'73 240Z all stock
'71 2dr. 510 stock......for now
'91 Nissan truck *SOLD*
'02 TOYOTA Tacoma
'78 Kawasaki Z1-R
'84 Kawasaki GPZ750 Turbo
'99 Kawasaki ZRX1100
Re: 68 CDN going to be all like JDM yo!
chopping the head off that bird and going back to the downdraftMcShagger510 wrote:Longlive the gooseneck!
low pulsing vacuum, pooling gas, heat affected linkage, 1200rpm idle when hot, 800 cold, no drive to fiddle and fart around. ...oh so thats why you guys run fuel injection
two_68_510s wrote:I guess our donkeys are quicker then your sled dogs!
- McShagger510
- Posts: 1821
- Joined: 26 Mar 2004 20:55
- Location: East Van, Canada
Re: 68 CDN going to be all like JDM yo!
Gotta find a set of SUs and polish them up. They'd look great in there!
James
[attachment=0]P1000681.jpg[/attachment]
James
[attachment=0]P1000681.jpg[/attachment]
- Attachments
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- P1000681.jpg (128.09 KiB) Viewed 5222 times
The person with the sun in their eyes has the right of way. - my brother
'72 2dr. 510 Turbo
'73 240Z all stock
'71 2dr. 510 stock......for now
'91 Nissan truck *SOLD*
'02 TOYOTA Tacoma
'78 Kawasaki Z1-R
'84 Kawasaki GPZ750 Turbo
'99 Kawasaki ZRX1100
'72 2dr. 510 Turbo
'73 240Z all stock
'71 2dr. 510 stock......for now
'91 Nissan truck *SOLD*
'02 TOYOTA Tacoma
'78 Kawasaki Z1-R
'84 Kawasaki GPZ750 Turbo
'99 Kawasaki ZRX1100
Re: 68 CDN going to be all like JDM yo!
is that coil suppose to get hot ? ran the car for 20min and I could not keep my hand on the coil for more than a few seconds.bertvorgon wrote: the SUPER COIL
granted it felt a lot cooler than the stupid stainless header
two_68_510s wrote:I guess our donkeys are quicker then your sled dogs!
- bertvorgon
- Supporter
- Posts: 12017
- Joined: 04 Aug 2003 20:45
- Location: White Rock, B.C. Canada
Re: 68 CDN going to be all like JDM yo!
Morning Robyn,
No, the coil should not be that hot, they get warm, I wonder what's up? If anything, carry a spare and run it.....do you have a fire extinguisher?
I grabbed this off the NET, many articles about coils over heating:
"Due to ignition being a HOT subject here on TMF and the coil is one of the main components and people keep asking why is my coil so hot? or I have put in 3 sets of points in 6 months ? Then this may prove a interesting read. Extracts are taken from the Lucas Technica Manual.
An ignition coil, to all intents and purposes, is a transformer and like any transformer has primary and secondary coil, both wound on a soft iron magnetic core.
The primary coil is connected to earth via the points. When the points are closed current passes through the primary coil and the metal core becomes magnetized. As the points open the magnetism in the core collapses and as it does a voltage is induced in the secondary coil. This voltage is fed to the spark plugs via the rotor arm
The level of this induced voltage depends on the ratio of turns of wire on the primary coil to the turns on the secondary coil (in the order of 2,000 to 1). Standard cars have 12-volt coils and Later Cars have a 9-volt coil with a ballast resistor connected in series. These cars have a white from the starter solenoid and a white/pink from the ignition fed resistor
Both coils generate heat under normal operating conditions. Coils are designed such that they dissipate this heat and do not, under normal operation, become unduly hot. However, if they do there is clearly something wrong, begging the question what?
Back to the original question, ‘why does my coil get too hot to touch’?
Coils convert 12-volt DC to approximately 24,000 volts DC and in the process become hot, but not too hot as they are designed such that the heat generated is dissipated via the coil external surface.
Coils overheat simply because the heat generated is not being dissipated – why not?
The answer is simply, that due to an internal fault, such as a short circuit, the current through the primary coil will have increased, consequently the heat generated will have increased.
Referring to a standard 12-volt coil has a resistance of 3.5 ohms and when connected to a 12-volt battery 3.42 amps flow. This in turn produces 41.04 watts of energy. Under these conditions the coil will operate as designed and not overheat.
Now, say, due to a fault the resistance of the primary coil drops to 3 ohms, the current will increase to (12 volts divided by 3 ohms) which equates to 4 amps, resulting in an energy increase to 48 watts (12 volts x 4 amps = 48 watts).
With an increase in energy of almost 17%, the coil surface will not dissipate this extra energy and will therefore get very hot."
No, the coil should not be that hot, they get warm, I wonder what's up? If anything, carry a spare and run it.....do you have a fire extinguisher?
I grabbed this off the NET, many articles about coils over heating:
"Due to ignition being a HOT subject here on TMF and the coil is one of the main components and people keep asking why is my coil so hot? or I have put in 3 sets of points in 6 months ? Then this may prove a interesting read. Extracts are taken from the Lucas Technica Manual.
An ignition coil, to all intents and purposes, is a transformer and like any transformer has primary and secondary coil, both wound on a soft iron magnetic core.
The primary coil is connected to earth via the points. When the points are closed current passes through the primary coil and the metal core becomes magnetized. As the points open the magnetism in the core collapses and as it does a voltage is induced in the secondary coil. This voltage is fed to the spark plugs via the rotor arm
The level of this induced voltage depends on the ratio of turns of wire on the primary coil to the turns on the secondary coil (in the order of 2,000 to 1). Standard cars have 12-volt coils and Later Cars have a 9-volt coil with a ballast resistor connected in series. These cars have a white from the starter solenoid and a white/pink from the ignition fed resistor
Both coils generate heat under normal operating conditions. Coils are designed such that they dissipate this heat and do not, under normal operation, become unduly hot. However, if they do there is clearly something wrong, begging the question what?
Back to the original question, ‘why does my coil get too hot to touch’?
Coils convert 12-volt DC to approximately 24,000 volts DC and in the process become hot, but not too hot as they are designed such that the heat generated is dissipated via the coil external surface.
Coils overheat simply because the heat generated is not being dissipated – why not?
The answer is simply, that due to an internal fault, such as a short circuit, the current through the primary coil will have increased, consequently the heat generated will have increased.
Referring to a standard 12-volt coil has a resistance of 3.5 ohms and when connected to a 12-volt battery 3.42 amps flow. This in turn produces 41.04 watts of energy. Under these conditions the coil will operate as designed and not overheat.
Now, say, due to a fault the resistance of the primary coil drops to 3 ohms, the current will increase to (12 volts divided by 3 ohms) which equates to 4 amps, resulting in an energy increase to 48 watts (12 volts x 4 amps = 48 watts).
With an increase in energy of almost 17%, the coil surface will not dissipate this extra energy and will therefore get very hot."
"Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty" - Peter Egan
Keith Law
1973 2 Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
1971 Vintage 13' BOLER trailer
Keith Law
1973 2 Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
1971 Vintage 13' BOLER trailer
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- Supporter
- Posts: 217
- Joined: 24 May 2013 06:11
- Location: New York
Re: 68 CDN going to be all like JDM yo!
you never installed the 68 garnish? I'm trying to figure out the best way of putting mine on...RMS wrote:
sent her off to be touched by another man.
-Mike
'68 Datsun 510 4DR
'68 Datsun 510 4DR
Re: 68 CDN going to be all like JDM yo!
I have to take a day off work so I can hit up pacific fasteners and buy some nylon D bolts to affix the garnish.
thanks Keith... I have a second super coil, I will swap it in and see if it runs cooler......maybe im just sensitive to temp because of that header I like to touch.
thanks Keith... I have a second super coil, I will swap it in and see if it runs cooler......maybe im just sensitive to temp because of that header I like to touch.
two_68_510s wrote:I guess our donkeys are quicker then your sled dogs!
- bertvorgon
- Supporter
- Posts: 12017
- Joined: 04 Aug 2003 20:45
- Location: White Rock, B.C. Canada
Re: 68 CDN going to be all like JDM yo!
HHHMMMM...metallic paint holding heat in...shoulda left it yellow.....
"Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty" - Peter Egan
Keith Law
1973 2 Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
1971 Vintage 13' BOLER trailer
Keith Law
1973 2 Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
1971 Vintage 13' BOLER trailer
Re: 68 CDN going to be all like JDM yo!
well I will try the unpainted coil tonight ...dam metallics messing things up...
so I took two dcoe bodies cleaned them up and swapped in my only set of matching jets and right away noticed a difference over the old side drafts. the jets are off a 2.4l napz I think shes a little rich @ idle with 50f9 then leans out after 3600 with some popping out the exhaust then really bogs and farts on over run. jets are : 40 pump jet, 145 main on a f15 emulsion tube and 50f9 idle. anyone have a selection of jets in my range ? .060 over L20b u67 with mild California cam
so I took two dcoe bodies cleaned them up and swapped in my only set of matching jets and right away noticed a difference over the old side drafts. the jets are off a 2.4l napz I think shes a little rich @ idle with 50f9 then leans out after 3600 with some popping out the exhaust then really bogs and farts on over run. jets are : 40 pump jet, 145 main on a f15 emulsion tube and 50f9 idle. anyone have a selection of jets in my range ? .060 over L20b u67 with mild California cam
two_68_510s wrote:I guess our donkeys are quicker then your sled dogs!
Re: 68 CDN going to be all like JDM yo!
robyn i have a small box of webber jets, not sure of the sizes off hand.
ding ding dong dong all night long long.
Re: 68 CDN going to be all like JDM yo!
that would be great man! you on afternoons ?
two_68_510s wrote:I guess our donkeys are quicker then your sled dogs!
Re: 68 CDN going to be all like JDM yo!
ok so the super coil is not so super. after many minutes of cranking, wet plugs and fiddling I got the car up to temp. hit the coil with the ir gun and the coil was sitting at a cool 160f . grabbed a coil from a 720 that read: Nissan 12v. wired it in and ...ya it ran.. better..... I could even trigger the timing light off the leads...I guess that timing light wasn't broken
I fiddled and farted around with the carbs, got it pretty smooth with minimal popping on over run. gave up and moved on to the choke cable....
looks like I will have to run a cable or find some cable stays with a pivot ......... what process can be used to attach a braided cable to a solid wire ? braze, silver solder, mechanical ? or I need to find some bmx Ubrake cable stays. the pivoting ones with the C clip.
I also think im losing some mechanical advantage on the linkage when close to closed as the return is slow and week when heat soaked. it takes a finger to get the idle all the way down.
I fiddled and farted around with the carbs, got it pretty smooth with minimal popping on over run. gave up and moved on to the choke cable....
looks like I will have to run a cable or find some cable stays with a pivot ......... what process can be used to attach a braided cable to a solid wire ? braze, silver solder, mechanical ? or I need to find some bmx Ubrake cable stays. the pivoting ones with the C clip.
I also think im losing some mechanical advantage on the linkage when close to closed as the return is slow and week when heat soaked. it takes a finger to get the idle all the way down.
two_68_510s wrote:I guess our donkeys are quicker then your sled dogs!