flux tasting?
is the iron hot?
Chris' 72 Project
I just realized, I wonder if I am doing it right.....I mean I am outting them all in the right spot, but with what I'm using. I went to radio shack and bought a 30 watt gun and some .032 60/40 light duty Rosin Core Solder......I havea feeling there will be a post by you Rod telling me this is all wrong.
No, that pic is just me putting the crystal on the board.........oh yeah,I found out the hard way that you want to put the pieces in the right place the first time. I don't know how I did it, but I managed to put one in the wrong spot, let me tell you for someone without solder skills to spare it was a son of a bitch to get back out and in its correct spot
No, that pic is just me putting the crystal on the board.........oh yeah,I found out the hard way that you want to put the pieces in the right place the first time. I don't know how I did it, but I managed to put one in the wrong spot, let me tell you for someone without solder skills to spare it was a son of a bitch to get back out and in its correct spot
From the sounds of it, you have enough equipment to do a good job; just make sure you have a full jug of patience while you are assembling the thing. If you are tired, hungry, have to pee, or whatever, stop and address whatever it is that might divert your attention away from doing a perfect job. (of course, this goes for most things in life!)
Don't open the little baggies of parts until you are ready to put them in. Keep the workspace (kitchen table?) clean and uncluttered so parts don't get lost or misplaced.
Don't think you are going to build it in one sitting! Pace yourself and give yourself a little goal for each sitting with the board. When you've reached your little goal for the sitting, go back and inspect your solder jobs to make sure they are all of good quality.
Tips on soldering!... Don't apply very much pressure from the iron's tip to the circuit board because the copper traces are only held onto the fiberglass backing with a little bit of glue (there's probably enough weight in that iron that you don't need anymore force than it's resting weight) - overheating the circuit board will float the traces off the board and cause problems (it can be fixed, but it is just more work, that's all). Think of soldering like welding - you wouldn't weld a dirty piece of metal, and you wouldn't use a dirty welding tip to do good work, so with that in mind, before you use the soldering iron, wipe off the tip to clean it, dab a minute amount of solder onto it, then rest the tip onto the pad/lead to be soldered. If you want to clean the board before you build it, use 100% alcohol or something like that. Once the area is up to temp (about half a second), apply some solder to the junction where the iron's tip meets the pad and lead. The solder should wick into the joint nicely if everything is clean and up to temperature. Pull the iron away with a quick and deliberate (but not spastic)motion, let it cool and it's done! On to the next 400 joints to be soldered! No problem...
Don't open the little baggies of parts until you are ready to put them in. Keep the workspace (kitchen table?) clean and uncluttered so parts don't get lost or misplaced.
Don't think you are going to build it in one sitting! Pace yourself and give yourself a little goal for each sitting with the board. When you've reached your little goal for the sitting, go back and inspect your solder jobs to make sure they are all of good quality.
Tips on soldering!... Don't apply very much pressure from the iron's tip to the circuit board because the copper traces are only held onto the fiberglass backing with a little bit of glue (there's probably enough weight in that iron that you don't need anymore force than it's resting weight) - overheating the circuit board will float the traces off the board and cause problems (it can be fixed, but it is just more work, that's all). Think of soldering like welding - you wouldn't weld a dirty piece of metal, and you wouldn't use a dirty welding tip to do good work, so with that in mind, before you use the soldering iron, wipe off the tip to clean it, dab a minute amount of solder onto it, then rest the tip onto the pad/lead to be soldered. If you want to clean the board before you build it, use 100% alcohol or something like that. Once the area is up to temp (about half a second), apply some solder to the junction where the iron's tip meets the pad and lead. The solder should wick into the joint nicely if everything is clean and up to temperature. Pull the iron away with a quick and deliberate (but not spastic)motion, let it cool and it's done! On to the next 400 joints to be soldered! No problem...
I just checked out the head that I have that I am using for fuel injection.
It's one of four extra heads I have just laying around. It already has the EFI notches ground into it and the holes tapped for the manifold, this is why I am using it.
It's an A87 Closed Chamber with 1.65 intake valves and 1.38 exhaust valves. It only has 1.25 intake runners though. I want to bump them up to 1.5. I was talking to a machine shop guys and said it was like 200-400 USD depending on how long it takes. I can do it myself. He said use a drimel bit and some oil so the aluminum does not build up in the bit. My only question is, are there any points I need to consider before I start cutting it up with the bit.
It's one of four extra heads I have just laying around. It already has the EFI notches ground into it and the holes tapped for the manifold, this is why I am using it.
It's an A87 Closed Chamber with 1.65 intake valves and 1.38 exhaust valves. It only has 1.25 intake runners though. I want to bump them up to 1.5. I was talking to a machine shop guys and said it was like 200-400 USD depending on how long it takes. I can do it myself. He said use a drimel bit and some oil so the aluminum does not build up in the bit. My only question is, are there any points I need to consider before I start cutting it up with the bit.
"An intercooler...has never been, nor should ever be, considered icing on the cake. A proper intercooler is more cake."
Corky Bell, Maximum Boost
"one of the little things that add up"
-defdes
Corky Bell, Maximum Boost
"one of the little things that add up"
-defdes
Rob help, or any other MegaSquirt gurus!!!
So as you can see in the photo, we've got lights. The injector light is flashing, and increases when I increase the injector dial on the stimulator. And the fast idle light is on and turns off when I turn the clt dial up. So it seems to be working ok, BUT I can't see aything on MegaTune. I downloaded version 2.5, the newest version, and when it starts up it says the I have selected Com 1 and there is no response. What does that mean and how do I fix it?
Oh yeah, it is hooked up through a 9 pin connector on the side of MegaSquirt and a USB on the other end of the cable
So as you can see in the photo, we've got lights. The injector light is flashing, and increases when I increase the injector dial on the stimulator. And the fast idle light is on and turns off when I turn the clt dial up. So it seems to be working ok, BUT I can't see aything on MegaTune. I downloaded version 2.5, the newest version, and when it starts up it says the I have selected Com 1 and there is no response. What does that mean and how do I fix it?
Oh yeah, it is hooked up through a 9 pin connector on the side of MegaSquirt and a USB on the other end of the cable
- Attachments
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"An intercooler...has never been, nor should ever be, considered icing on the cake. A proper intercooler is more cake."
Corky Bell, Maximum Boost
"one of the little things that add up"
-defdes
Corky Bell, Maximum Boost
"one of the little things that add up"
-defdes
The problem might be due to the USB-to-RS232 adapter itself. A lot of people have had problems with various adapters not reliably working with MS, due to variance in methods used by the various adapter manufacturers.
Based on that notion, is there any way you can try your MS setup on a regular old computer with a regular old RS232 port? That would really be the best way to proceed as it would help to add some valuble info to the situation.
(
Here is a link to the MS thread about USB to serial converters...
http://www.msefi.com/viewtopic.php?t=34 ... al&start=0
One known good USB to serial converter is this unit (it's the same one DIY-Jerry sells, so if you are going to get one, it might be easier to just order it from him)
http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/ ... &CatId=464
)
Based on that notion, is there any way you can try your MS setup on a regular old computer with a regular old RS232 port? That would really be the best way to proceed as it would help to add some valuble info to the situation.
(
Here is a link to the MS thread about USB to serial converters...
http://www.msefi.com/viewtopic.php?t=34 ... al&start=0
One known good USB to serial converter is this unit (it's the same one DIY-Jerry sells, so if you are going to get one, it might be easier to just order it from him)
http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/ ... &CatId=464
)
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bertvorgon
- Supporter
- Posts: 12017
- Joined: 04 Aug 2003 20:45
- Location: White Rock, B.C. Canada
Thanks for the help Rehs, I finally got it hooked up and working. The interface for megatune is Awesome!!!! I love using the stimulator and watching all the changes. And the best part is, is that I actually understand all the guages and lights. This is going to be sooooooo powerful for tuning!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
"An intercooler...has never been, nor should ever be, considered icing on the cake. A proper intercooler is more cake."
Corky Bell, Maximum Boost
"one of the little things that add up"
-defdes
Corky Bell, Maximum Boost
"one of the little things that add up"
-defdes
I was 5 years at a small corporate integration/consultant house and a System/Network administrator at Vancouver Film School for a year. Over saturated industry, and VFS made me jaded, so I became a mechanic... errr wannabe mechanic. 
Oh wait! You mean megasquirt! lol I thought you meant Microsoft the whole time, as that was the problem. MS...
Oh wait! You mean megasquirt! lol I thought you meant Microsoft the whole time, as that was the problem. MS...
Does anyone know what the Fuel Pressure Regulator is from. I saw it at Canby on the EFI'd L18 green 510, but not sure who owned it.
I really need to know what is is or what it's from.
I really need to know what is is or what it's from.
Last edited by heirfaus on 20 Aug 2007 15:20, edited 1 time in total.
"An intercooler...has never been, nor should ever be, considered icing on the cake. A proper intercooler is more cake."
Corky Bell, Maximum Boost
"one of the little things that add up"
-defdes
Corky Bell, Maximum Boost
"one of the little things that add up"
-defdes
