Suspension Overhaul

[rnorrish]

blech.

the trick to dropping just the diff is too put the jack stands under the car floor (right at the strong point, at the floor's up-kick at the outside edge) so as to let the sub-frame drop and twist down.
this gives just enough clearance usually to clear the spare tire well.

my procedure:
undo the drive shaft and half-shafts from the diff.
remove the 2 nuts and washers for the mustache bar to body connection, then
undo/remove the 2 fasteners to the diff cover.
remove the 4 long bolts and horse shoe spacers for the diff. (only possible if installed from the bottom, up in the initial assembly)
push the diff as far foward as possible and use a prybar to remove the mustache bar, prying it over the studs and then down. (not required if using bolts)
then remove the diff.
tada!

I wasn't able to the last time I did it, some time ago. I couldn't remove the mustache bar becuase of the gas tank and couldn't pull the diff with the bar attached.

Julian, if the gas tank is in the way.... buddy, you're doing it ALL wrong!

[Byron510]

Rich, I would agree that your method is the easy one. The key is not putting the jack stands ON the X member.
However, my R190 won't come out with this method. Although I don't have to drop the whole X member, I do have to loose the nuts on the X member studs all the way to the bottom to get the diff out. However, the R160 and R180 are no issue at all. Plus the Bronze has no spare tire well, which is a blessing in the case of changing the diff! (and mounting an exhaust – sucks ‘cause I never carry a spare ).

But to stay on topic, you don’t even need to make a Savage washer to do the trick of making the rear X member more solid. Switching the stock washers around to a different combination will do the same trick.
First drop each side the X-member enough to remove the upper washer all together.
Then mount X member against the body on the bottom side by first using the thick, small diameter washer, then invert the large cup washer, so that it presses against the X-member directly, then install the lock washer and self locking nut (preferably a new one, which can be had at most motor cycle shops – Honda uses this size and pitch on many of their products). Make it all gootintite! And you have a sold rear X-member and a 510 that won’t “rear steer”.

Byron

[Jing]

Just bought the full gc setup and some tokico inserts. Found some 280zx front struts too. Gonna go with the 280zx brake calipers. Also got the experimental engineerings t/c rod kit like okayfine has sudjested and gonna get ST sway bars. Stuff comes in a week and hopefully I can run it over to my friends shop to cut and weld things together. That trick to stiffen up the rear xmember sounds really cool. I'll talk to my friend about the washer trick maybe he can help me with that along with expanding the exhaust hole and slotting the rear. Are there any other trick I should do while changing out my suspension. Thanks for all the info. I understand you guys must be really irritated with my questions because you must get it akabillion times a day but I seriously appreciate you guys helping me out. Even Okayfines tough love but insightful thoughts are really helpful .

[Byron510]

Thanks for all the info. I understand you guys must be really irritated with my questions because you must get it akabillion times a day but I seriously appreciate you guys helping me out. Even Okayfines tough love but insightful thoughts are really helpful .

Dude, that's why we spend time on this forum - it's all about the community - glad you have found a way.
Just start a thread on your project and keep us updated; then when you get the feel fro what you are doing you too can be giving advice.

Byron

[Jing]

Yeah I read your post also on using maxima or 200sx struts for the front because of the shitty 280zx design, but free struts from a friend? How can I pass that up. I'll try to get pictures up soon and create a build thread to keep people updated and get feedback.

[heirfaus]

I don't think anyone is hating on your questions. It's just tiring to get the flaky newbs that are here one day and gone the next asking random plain Jane questions about cars they never intend to actually work on, or don't even own yet. It's refreshing to get a member like you asking questions and then actually using the info!! Good luck on getting it set up.

One more note just in case you didn't know. You need to weld in a pipe when you cut the hole in you Xmember larger. This is a structural piece and needs to be reinforced. I, just like many have, used a 4 inch hole saw and welded in some pipe from an exhaust shop that does big diesel exhaust. Works out very nicely and will accommodate ANY exhaust size you will ever need.

[Byron510]

First drop each side the X-member enough to remove the upper washer all together.
Then mount X member against the body on the bottom side by first using the thick, small diameter washer, then invert the large cup washer, so that it presses against the X-member directly, then install the lock washer and self locking nut (preferably a new one, which can be had at most motor cycle shops – Honda uses this size and pitch on many of their products). Make it all gootintite! And you have a sold rear X-member and a 510 that won’t “rear steer”.

Byron

OK - I had to revive this topic for a friend who needed a visual - so here we go;
Above explanation put into visual que....

Byron

[defdes]

Wow, excellent timing on this. I realized (about 3 years ago), that this mod was never done to my car by the PO who set up the suspension. I have a set of the poly bushings but this looks a lot easier.
Should I go the other route, do the rubber bushings need to be burned out a la rear control arms, or could the be pulled/pushed out using a bearing puller of some sort?

[Byron510]

I just don't see the need to replace the bushings at all - unless they have completely disintegrated, which is not likely.
This model has another benefit, it moved the X member upwards slightly, assisting in correcting geometry somewhat.

Byron

[defdes]

I was noticing that too about the poly bushings, it looks like they would drop the X member down about 3/8".

[bertvorgon]

I never replaced my rubber in the subframe, just did the washer mode, Andy made up a special one. As Byron said, that helps with drive shaft angularity, depending on what else you have done.

this mod LOCKS the subframe in place, mine has never moved.