Crossmember Bushings

[FrameDamage]

I'm looking to tighten up the handling on mt 69 dime. The suspension bushings are pretty shot all around, but especially the crossmember bushings in the rear. I'm looking to replace them, hopefully with rubber, and I'm having trouble finding any. I'm curious what others have done for this. Any leads would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

[FrameDamage]

I can fit my fingers in gap

[RMS]

I always just flip that washer, then shim the divot with washers till flush, reinstall nut, end up short a thread..... never had a failure

[Three B's Racing]

I'd go with the units from Whiteline..

http://www.whitelinesuspensionparts.com/

[okayfine]

Are the crossmember bushings shot? That single picture shows one in pretty fair condition. Of course, it doesn't show much at all. IF they're solid and not split/torn, there's this:

Volume 5 Issue 4 - Improved rear crossmember washers - A simple modification that gives your 510 the best of both worlds: Improved rear crossmember control without the harshness of poly bushings.

Byron has a slightly different version he uses.

[FrameDamage]

Are the crossmember bushings shot? That single picture shows one in pretty fair condition. Of course, it doesn't show much at all. IF they're solid and not split/torn, there's this:

Volume 5 Issue 4 - Improved rear crossmember washers - A simple modification that gives your 510 the best of both worlds: Improved rear crossmember control without the harshness of poly bushings.

Byron has a slightly different version he uses.

Part of what makes me think they're shot is the haynes manual I've got, says if there is more than a 4 mm gap between the washer and the bushing, the bushing should be replaced. The gap is about half an inch now. Also, the rest of the car is pretty far gone (it was stored INSIDE a pile of mud). I'll definitely give the mod a try though, looks easy and cheap.

Thanks!

[SteveEdmonton]

Many of us have used these "Savage Washers" and been really happy with them. I did the mod on my car a year ago and added poly bushings to the control arms at the same time. Between those two changes, I've been delighted with how much tighter (and more predictable) the back end is.

[FrameDamage]

Many of us have used these "Savage Washers" and been really happy with them. I did the mod on my car a year ago and added poly bushings to the control arms at the same time. Between those two changes, I've been delighted with how much tighter (and more predictable) the back end is.

Haha, predictable would be nice... as it is now the back of my car does a lot of unintended steering. Makes driving more exciting than I'd like.
I've heard people say poly bushings are a great upgrade, and I've heard of people who avoid them like the plague. Have you had any issues with poly?
Ultimately I'd like to refresh all the suspension.

[bertvorgon]

Savage washers work just fine, did mine like that 30+ years ago, nothing has moved.

Rear steer in your 510, read back through the handling thread if you have not already..main issue is toe change at the back. YOU NEED TO RUN SOME REAR TOE IN..PERIOD

[SteveEdmonton]

I've heard people say poly bushings are a great upgrade, and I've heard of people who avoid them like the plague. Have you had any issues with poly?

I put poly suspension bushings throughout my MGB-GT close to 10 years ago and couldn't get over how much tighter and more precise the handling was. Compared to worn-out rubber, the improvement was dramatic. And it still handles that way, years later. The poly doesn't erode the way rubber does, so the upgrade is pretty much permanent.

The big downside in my MG is that the poly bushings have a lot less "give" than rubber does. And the MG suspension really seems harsh without that "give." As I'm sure you know, it's a pretty crude suspension compared to our 510 setup-- never mind comparing it with anything that's truly modern! So I'm aware all the time in the MG of that cost. It's pretty jouncy.

In my 510, though, I haven't experienced any of that same unfortunate harshness with poly bushings. Obviously it's a matter of individual preference, but I really like the 510 setup with poly "all around." The only bushings I haven't replaced with poly are these crossmember bushings you're talking about. And that's because the Savage Washer mod was so easy and successful.

The only caution is this: If you think you might want to lower the rear at some point by using "Byron's Brackets," you'll have to put rubber bushings back into the control arms. The design of those brackets depends on a bit of give in the bushings, which the poly simply doesn't provide. Either the control arms will bind (not good!) or the poly will grind itself to pieces in short order. If you're planning to run a stock rear end setup, though, I think you'll find that poly bushings in the control arms are great.

For my car, I planned for the future as well by tracking down a set of rubber bushings for the control arms. I'm holding onto them in hopes that I might install Byron's brackets in a couple of years, once a bunch of other upgrades are done. I'm not sure the rubber ones are "always" available from Nissan, but they were at least sporadically available a few times over the last couple of years. Check with Chad at Chico Nissan if your local dealer can't or won't help.

[okayfine]

Echoing Steve's comments, poly is to be avoided in the front and lower control arms if you're not using the stock geometry. If you add caster in the front or slot the rear crossmember, poly will bind.

To the OP, I'm not sure what the Haynes manual is talking about. Your picture looks like they all have looked that I've seen. That cupped washer, as is, contacts the steel inner sleeve of the bushing, which contacts the body mount. If the bushing is deteriorated, it'll be cracked and/or pulled away from the crossmember or the inner sleeve. Otherwise it's fine. And the Savage Washer mod actually compresses the rubber bushing anyway...

[defdes]

I have a set of the rear cross member poly bushings unopened if you are interested.