The 510 Realm

Further down the rabbit hole we go! Our end goal is to have a bolt in crossmember for rack and pinion. Like everything suspension there is no simple answer. The rack has less travel than the steering box and the last thing we want is less steering angle for the same steering input. This will require a custom steering knuckle, which isn't bad but it gives us the opportunity to adjust things. The stock steering knuckle has less than the standard 100% steering angle you would expect. Although we've only checked it with the rack installed. Maybe with the steering box since it "sweeps" may account for some of the missing ackerman we were expecting. Really we are just wondering if anyone has as built their own steering knuckles to adjust things.

isn't this one, albeit from alumuinmi

http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=28558

Thanks Rob!

For testing purposes Jeff, the last couple episodes of the Binki build series they show a contraption to achieve the correct geometry for measurement purposes. Once they found the optimum location in space, then they built the actual steering arm. It is short on this build, you'll see that the length of the steering arm is radially shorter than the one used on our 510's.

Byron

I saw that episode. I was surprised at how much bump they called acceptable.

I have designed and fabricated custom steering knuckles for my A-arm build and I can tell you that you will need to know all the other parameters to determine the correct length and angle for any changes you are contemplating. It is trial and error. Draw it up on CAD and manipulate it through the complete range of motion. Then mock it up. And check. More things will run into each other than you can imagine. It looks like a lot of available real estate until you turn the wheel. And make sure you install steering stops.

When you check your clearances you need to be adjust your ride height side to side to allow you to set specific attitudes to simulate jounce (compression) on the loaded side and rebound on the unloaded side. I have seen a lot of posts where everything is checked with the wheels straight and at ride height.

Steering arm lengths' biggest variable will impact you turns lock to lock on the steering wheel. Angle will impact Ackerman and bump steer (it will impact L2L as well, but long after Ackerman and bump are out of control).

Just my 2 cents. After 45 years, all of our cars are slightly different with different component swaps. There is no easy, quick solution. no magic software. You will have to do your homework for your car.

And the easiest way to have adjustable Ackerman is to have an adjustable drag link with the factory steering. The engineers at Nissan knew what they were doing so unless someone's motor swab interferes with the steering, leave it be. Those different angles that the idler and pitman swing through are to your advantage. A rack will not give you that.

WWAAAYYY Back, I did a complete, full size cardboard mock up of my suspension, I wish I had kept that but, it was a totally visual way to really see what was going on, and, where it was most important.