Opinion - Rear Camber/Toe Mods

Suspension, including wheel, tire and brake.
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abisel
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Opinion - Rear Camber/Toe Mods

Postby abisel » 23 Mar 2016 12:29

There are a couple mods to the rear cross member to give camber/toe adjustments. Which is preferred? Which is easier to keep adjustments? Which holds up best?

This one:
Image
Image

Or this version:
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Or this version:
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defdes
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Re: Opinion - Rear Camber/Toe Mods

Postby defdes » 23 Mar 2016 12:37

Go option #2....it is as good or better than the others and because member Byron here makes them.

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toylet
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Re: Opinion - Rear Camber/Toe Mods

Postby toylet » 23 Mar 2016 16:58

Option 1 is the best and cost the most

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icehouse
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Re: Opinion - Rear Camber/Toe Mods

Postby icehouse » 23 Mar 2016 17:21

Yep I've used Byron's brackets on a few of my cars and love them. I was actually just adjusting them last weekend on my tan car. Took my car to my bro's work and was able to adjust the toe and camber perfect!
I liked Hainz better...... Can we trade back?

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icehouse
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Re: Opinion - Rear Camber/Toe Mods

Postby icehouse » 23 Mar 2016 17:26

Image
I liked Hainz better...... Can we trade back?

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okayfine
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Re: Opinion - Rear Camber/Toe Mods

Postby okayfine » 24 Mar 2016 06:03

A couple other options the OP didn't mention, including the Penultimate, and slotting. Here at The Realm, Byron's brackets are probably "preferred," but that's from the slightly biased POV that Byron lives here. I haven't heard of any issues keeping adjustments on any version, even slotted, but those versions with jack screws for adjustments would be easiest to dial in.

Depends on what you're after, what your budget is, how much work you're doing yourself. Also depends on what sort of control arm bushings you want to run. If you're just correcting toe/camber on a moderately-lowered 510, nothing wrong with slotting.
Because when you spend a silly amount of money on a silly, trivial thing that will help you not one jot, you are demonstrating that you have a soul and a heart and that you are the sort of person who has no time for Which? magazine. – Jeremy Clarkson

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icehouse
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Re: Opinion - Rear Camber/Toe Mods

Postby icehouse » 24 Mar 2016 08:30

All the other true options require grinding off both original trailing arm mounts. FUCK THAT!! I mean who wants to risk lighting their red sweater on fire twice as many times!!! :)
I liked Hainz better...... Can we trade back?

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JordanTr
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Re: Opinion - Rear Camber/Toe Mods

Postby JordanTr » 24 Mar 2016 12:43

Oh Jeff....I concur that grinding the ears off sucks!

I went with Datsport for the ease of adjustment. It is very easy to adjust. I run out of camber adjustment on one side due to unknown issues(bent control arm, installation, ?). Byron's brackets look like they have a lot more adjustability built in.
Jordan | '72 2 door KA project | '94 240sx RB26DETT | '97 Silvia RB25DET | '90 Audi 90 Quattro 20V (DD)

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Byron510
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Re: Opinion - Rear Camber/Toe Mods

Postby Byron510 » 24 Mar 2016 13:36

I agree that removing the ears is not fun. I find that a small cutting torch tip works very well - with a steady hand. Then clean up with a hard and blending disc. Installation is 2-4 hours depending on skill and access, certainly the quickest of the three set ups.

I have installed Datsports kits as well, and they are nice - Baz and I talk freely about his kit, Baz is a great guy if you can pin him down.

however I designed my bracket set with ease of installation fully in mind. they are available in the US or Canada directly from myself or Dave at FutoFab. And if you have any questions at all, certainly contact me. I'll be happy to assist.

Byron
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abisel
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Re: Opinion - Rear Camber/Toe Mods

Postby abisel » 24 Mar 2016 14:40

Good stuff.

I plan to use stock bushings in the trailing arms and the car will be mostly a street car with an occasional autocross. So that being said, the rear camber will most likely be no more than 1 deg negative and a total toe in of 1/8". The front is now adjustable because of Futofab's LCA and TC rods and I plan to put in 1 deg neg camber, 2.5 deg positive caster and a total of 1/8" toe out.

The car is suffering from POS (previous owner syndrome) where he/she cut a coil or so off the springs to lower the car. Now when you go over bumps there is a clunking sound because the springs are no longer under compression whenever the suspension flexes or is at full droop. Especially the front springs which are free to rotate and can move up/down about a 1/2" when at full droop. I haven't checked the rear springs, but I suspect the same. I have a set of Stage II (I believe) Mullholand yellow springs that I need to put on the car. Then I will know.

So far, I do like the ease of adjustment in option 1 with the jack screws. Although the cams of option 3 also allow for ease of adjustment. My 4Runner uses cams for adjustment and they stay put after they are set.

Byron's set do look like they offer more adjustment than the others. Have you thought of adding jack screws/cams to your design to make it easier to adjust and keep adjustment? Seems that when you loosen the nuts, they will move when you don't want them to move.

More opinions please.
Last edited by abisel on 24 Mar 2016 16:08, edited 2 times in total.

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bertvorgon
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Re: Opinion - Rear Camber/Toe Mods

Postby bertvorgon » 24 Mar 2016 14:49

I hope you mean TOE-IN on the rear!!!

Rear toe OUT is what we are trying to avoid.

You do not want the springs rattling at all, as the spring rate is thus a moot point.
"Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty" - Peter Egan

1973 2Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
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abisel
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Re: Opinion - Rear Camber/Toe Mods

Postby abisel » 24 Mar 2016 16:07

^^^ yes, I got the in/out turned around.

"No time for the old in-out, Love, I've just come to read the meter."

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Re: Opinion - Rear Camber/Toe Mods

Postby bertvorgon » 25 Mar 2016 10:29

You may want to re-visit the castor setting. 2.5 is not very much and while the steering will be very easy, it will not do much for cornering and higher speed stability.

Most of us run 5 degrees for our street setting. 6 is awesome for slaloms.

More castor INDUCES more negative camber in tighter turns, which then helps the front outside tire bite more.

Just some thoughts.
"Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty" - Peter Egan

1973 2Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
1968 Vintage 3HP Mini Bike
1971 Vintage 13' BOLER trailer

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icehouse
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Re: Opinion - Rear Camber/Toe Mods

Postby icehouse » 26 Mar 2016 09:05

My castor is at 3 degrees right now. I want more!
I liked Hainz better...... Can we trade back?

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abisel
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Re: Opinion - Rear Camber/Toe Mods

Postby abisel » 26 Mar 2016 09:36

I'm going in for front alignment in an hour and will set things to:
Caster +3.25; Camber -1.0; toe out 0.04".
Just for starters.


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