The 510 Realm

Dropping the engine mounts or adding shims above the moustache bar will help achieve the alignment you need. I added shims above the moustache bar on my ka510 until there was no more stud available for the nuts. Changing the shims inside the crossmember will change parallel misalignment but not change the angular misalignment. Having the shims beneath the pinion will help achieve more angularity at the diff so that is more closely matches the trans angle.

I hope that makes some sense and helps. Good luck.

To really get my 510 where it needs to be, I need to modify the upper engine mount brackets to drop the oil pan since the back of the trans is as high as it can go given the constraints of the trans tunnel.

While playing with driveshaft alignments, I found that my angle finder read different angles depending on which face of the level I used. That definitely added to the confusion and frustration for me.

Good luck. It sounds like you're almost there!

Ok this is a little embarrassing but I was not calculating the operating angles correctly. Found a good online calculator here - http://spicerparts.com/calculators/driv ... calculator. Bottom line is that my operating angles aren't as bad as I originally thought. But it does still show that I need to first raise my transmission higher and will be doing that over the next couple of weeks. Then as suggested I will measure and see if I need to adjust the rear diff at that point.

I get adding washers between the chassis and top of the mustache bar and will try that if needed. But for the shims used for bolting the diff into the crossmember, is anyone not running a pair in the 4 possible locations? Seems like they have to be either in the top or bottom but not neither. Right?

Dean (who is on here) has a KA24 swap in this 510 and I asked him about his shims and he said that they were all below the diff and the mustache bar was mounted normally with no extra spacers. I've driven his car and it is very smooth. He did do his own custom transmission crossmember though so probably not everything where it should be using the transmission adjustability.

Will keep everyone in the loop!

TheHeretic wrote: I get adding washers between the chassis and top of the mustache bar and will try that if needed. But for the shims used for bolting the diff into the crossmember, is anyone not running a pair in the 4 possible locations? Seems like they have to be either in the top or bottom but not neither. Right?

Yes that's right. It doesn't really go together with 2 up and 2 down. Also, it would still require spacing the MB down to really get the angularity.