1972 1600SSS from New Zealand

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510rob
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Re: 1972 1600SSS from New Zealand

Postby 510rob » 29 Aug 2017 12:22

Oh sheesh, that's a good idea that seems so simple once someone suggests it.

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broke
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Re: 1972 1600SSS from New Zealand

Postby broke » 29 Aug 2017 14:25

510rob wrote:Oh sheesh, that's a good idea that seems so simple once someone suggests it.


All my life I have just assumed you couldn't bend tungsten without snapping it... then I find out you can as long as you heat it :shock:

Yeah I do have a gas lens, I tried a super long stick-out on another project and was getting some porosity, although having said that I think in this case the shape of the crossmember might make a nice little "trench" to hold the gas. I'll give it a go on the other side.
The IDx 10 concept is based on the 510 in the same way that the urinating I was doing last night was based on a 30 yr old single-malt scotch.
-McWicked

510rob
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Re: 1972 1600SSS from New Zealand

Postby 510rob » 29 Aug 2017 21:27

I feel the same way! Duke wins the internet today for his post about bending tungsten.

Another thing to be aware of are double long gas nozzles for TIG. They are helpful to have on hand for those once-in-a-blue-moon cases where they solve an access problem...

http://www.weldingcity.com/tig-torch-pa ... a-cup.html

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broke
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Re: 1972 1600SSS from New Zealand

Postby broke » 12 Oct 2017 13:49

Crossmember still ongoing. I wanted to finish the gearbox stuff (or at least the fab side of it) so here we are.

Got the mandrel back from machining (I don't have a 4-jaw so I can't hold it true enough for this job on my lathe), broke all the old tacks, checked and measured then started going for it.

This was really difficult, not just because it's cast but I really struggled to get everything warm enough and to keep it warm enough to ward off cracks. Instead of fully welding the outside and then taking it off the jog and fully welding the inside like I had planned I had to do a few short runs on the outside to keep it aligned, then remove and fully weld the inside.

This was necessary because the L16 block was acting as a very effective heatsink and rapidly cooling the bell housing.

After that I had to die grind out all the outside welds that had cracked right down the middle, preheat and then bolt it up to the jig and begin rewelding the outside as fast as possible before it cooled. It seemed to go ok, I only got 1 crack and was able to reweld it.

Now I just need to clear some bench space and win lotto so I can afford the remaining bits to put it together.

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Overall I'm very happy with how it turned out at this stage. I'm currently wrecking a 70 Deluxe, the engine's locked up so when I pull it out I'll fit the bellhousing and input shaft up and check the clutch range of motion so I can make any adjustments I need (I sold the crank out of the block I used as the jig).
The IDx 10 concept is based on the 510 in the same way that the urinating I was doing last night was based on a 30 yr old single-malt scotch.
-McWicked


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