Stu's 1972 4 Door

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Stu
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Posts: 70
Joined: 02 Oct 2019 19:32
Location: Vancouver, WA USA

Hood Release clean-up

Post by Stu » 22 Jun 2020 20:08

My hood release handle was sticky, bent, and slightly rusty. Also, over time, the cable sleeve seemed to have moved and the cable was dragging on the end mount/brackets.

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I straightened the handle, drilled out the rivet, taped up the end of the cable, and bead blasted the assy.

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Coat of paint and reattached the cable retention ends

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Lubricated and ready to someday go back into the car

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Stu

72 4-door 510
Factory Five Racing Cobra
2005 Mini Cooper S
91 Ford F250 4x4 extended cab

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eastbaysolo_73
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Posts: 525
Joined: 18 May 2014 09:28
Location: Northern California

Re: Stu's 1972 4 Door

Post by eastbaysolo_73 » 23 Jun 2020 10:35

Nice work!
1970 2 door sr20det cookie cutter build
My build thread
http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=30772
Nor Cal Meng !

RONSLYCHUK
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Posts: 555
Joined: 12 Sep 2004 19:42
Location: Abbotsford B.C.

Re: Stu's 1972 4 Door

Post by RONSLYCHUK » 23 Jun 2020 10:50

Awesomeness!

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JordanTr
Posts: 943
Joined: 20 Feb 2013 22:27
Location: Langley, BC, Canada

Re: Stu's 1972 4 Door

Post by JordanTr » 23 Jun 2020 17:05

Love the updates on this thread. This will be a very awesome car once completed.
I’m glad to see I’m not the only one that takes the difficult route!
'72 2 door KA project | S14 RB26DETT (sold)| S14 RB25DET | '90 Audi 90Q20V (sold)

Stu
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Posts: 70
Joined: 02 Oct 2019 19:32
Location: Vancouver, WA USA

Engine bay prep

Post by Stu » 28 Jun 2020 21:48

Thanks for the complements. Trying to make the car fun to drive and last a while.

Since I have the engine bay all cleared out, and I like tiny sheet metal cuts on my fingers and sanding tiny crevices, now is the time to clean up all of the 52 extra holes that a 510 engine bay seems to have in it. Prepping an engine bay is a total pain in the ass and I don't wish it on my worst enemy.

Must have tools are a 2" orbital/dual-action sander and an angle grinder with flap disks. The ones from Harbor Freight work well and are not too expensive. A full sized D/A sander is great to have too and will make the regular bodywork way faster too.

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Using a plug kit from Bob Drake (HR-1580: https://www.bobdrake.com/FordItem.aspx?Item=HR-1580) I welded up the holes in the firewall, the strut towers, and inner fenders. At one time the car also had AC that I am not putting back in so there were big holes for that too. I also removed all of the sheet metal tabs used to hold wires and such since I plan on rerouting most of the wires and brake lines.

Since the battery won't fit with the SR20, I cut out the spot welds for the battery tray, sliced the 'dimple' and used my air hammer and dolly to reshape the inner fender well. If you don't slice the dimple, the metal does not have anywhere to go when you try and flatten it out.

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Once everything was all welded and ground down, I applied thin coats of filler to smooth stuff out. I'm not trying to get a show car engine bay, especially since you can't see 80% of the firewall once the engine is installed. I'm going with a lighter color, so my bodywork sins will not be as evident either.

A previous owner had painted a dark green over the stock frog green and did a crap job by not masking anything or scuffing the original paint. Therefor I have to take all of the dark green off or my new paint will not have a good base to stick to.

In an attempt to try and keep water out of the seams, I used SEM seam sealer on all the seams. In the inside of the strut towers, I used regular thickness/body and on most of the seams in the engine bay, I used self leveling so it would flow more and smooth out. I also ran my finger along each seam to try and get them smooth. The self leveling stuff 'runs', so be aware if you are planning on using it, but it does look nice in the seams especially if you run a finger over it

The underside of the strut towers are not pretty, but I may smooth them a bit before putting on undercoating. Yes, I know my welds are not beautiful, but on the 'non visible' side, I don't grind them perfectly smooth because the sheet metal is soooooo thin, I end up grinding back through, so I knock them down and leave well enough alone.

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I still need to do a bit more sanding before I spray epoxy sealer and then sandable primer.
Stu

72 4-door 510
Factory Five Racing Cobra
2005 Mini Cooper S
91 Ford F250 4x4 extended cab

iceman510
Posts: 133
Joined: 27 Jul 2015 19:05
Location: Howell, MI

Re: Stu's 1972 4 Door

Post by iceman510 » 01 Jul 2020 06:40

Thanks for the tip on the little flap discs. I didn't realize they came in that size.

I need to do this job on one of my cars and these will come in handy.

Stu
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Posts: 70
Joined: 02 Oct 2019 19:32
Location: Vancouver, WA USA

Engine bay prep pt. 2

Post by Stu » 06 Jul 2020 22:03

Not ready to paint yet but want to get it all sealed up.

I had about a half quart of PPG DP90 epoxy sealer left over from another project, so decided to use it for the engine compartment. Since I was not in a booth where I could put up some paper to get the pattern optimized, it went on a bit more textured than I like.

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I then used about 1/2 qt of Evercoat Feather Fill G2 and put down a couple coats of sandable surfacer/primer. Normally I like 3-4 good wet coats of primer/surfacer, but since this is just the engine bay, and I'm not trying to get every defect out, I went thinner. I may have to spot prime if I burn through during wet sand. A bit of black guide coat too.

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I have ordered about 6 different paint samples in aerosol cans to start looking at what colors I like. So far I like Datsun #18 white (second from the left) but have a Ford Wimbledon White (65 Mustang) and BMW Pepper White on order to see how they compare. https://www.automotivetouchup.com/ has a great selection and the rattle cans have really nice nozzles.

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On to the rust on the floor pans
Last edited by Stu on 13 Jul 2020 09:28, edited 1 time in total.
Stu

72 4-door 510
Factory Five Racing Cobra
2005 Mini Cooper S
91 Ford F250 4x4 extended cab

cwd240z
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Joined: 19 Jan 2017 10:18
Location: Texas

Re: Stu's 1972 4 Door

Post by cwd240z » 09 Jul 2020 14:15

Engine bay is looking really good. We use that G2 pretty frequently as well, it's a good product.
Chris
'71 510 4-Door Sedan
'76 280z

Stu
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Posts: 70
Joined: 02 Oct 2019 19:32
Location: Vancouver, WA USA

Rusty floor repair

Post by Stu » 12 Jul 2020 23:45

So far I have been extremely lucky with rust on my car. I only have a couple places in the floor pans that have rusted through. The front left corner, just to the left of the left seat, and under right rear seat. There is some surface rust around most of the drain holes, but it is surface and not terminal. There is also some rust around the seat brackets, but can be treated and sealed.

Since these cars are made of paper thin steel and I am not a great welder on thin stuff, I opted to go with plug welded lap joints. This is plenty strong and keeps me from blowing holes in everything and then throwing things in the garage.

I bought a flange/hole punch tool from Harbor Freight. By adding a flange around the edge it both adds strength and allows the bottom surfaces to match in height.

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I also discovered that 'weld through primer' sucks ass and does nothing but make sparks, slag, and crappy welds. I ended up having to pull the first panel back off after two welds so that I could sand away the primer where the plug welds were so I could get a nice weld.

Not a fan and now have a big can of it:

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I have a seam splitter that is helpful when you can't get the entire spot weld removed (hard angle to get a drill into). I used a wire brush
and rust converter (Krud Kutter) and to remove and neutralize as much surface rust as possible before welding. I also bead blasted the patch pieces to remove any flash rust (my sheet stock is not pristine). I know some people use clecos to hold the two panels together when welding but I did not want to deal with welding the through holes, so just used a floor jack to hold stuff up while holding the patch down.

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A skiny wheel of death and small air saw made short order of the old metal.

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The flange tool makes a flange about the same width as my metal scale, so I just use it to make the template oversize the right amount for the flange.

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These two patch panels have a bent area to weld to the inside of the rocker panel. With the bend and the flanges, these were pretty stiff.

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The rear patch was a bit more oddly shaped.

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Ground the welds and threw on a coat of satin black Rustoleum inside and out to keep any flash rust from forming. I will seam seal all the joints inside and out when I seal the whole interior later.

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Eventually I will treat the remaining rust, seam seal, and cover everything with Dyanmat or similar material. I also need to verify seat placement when they arrive in a couple weeks and put in seat belt anchors in a more modern location.
Stu

72 4-door 510
Factory Five Racing Cobra
2005 Mini Cooper S
91 Ford F250 4x4 extended cab

slowerthantime
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Joined: 06 Mar 2017 19:47
Location: Summerland B.C.

Re: Stu's 1972 4 Door

Post by slowerthantime » 13 Jul 2020 06:41

Hey Stu, nice work.

Have you tried copper weld through primer? I got much better results with it vs zinc.

Stu
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Posts: 70
Joined: 02 Oct 2019 19:32
Location: Vancouver, WA USA

Re: Stu's 1972 4 Door

Post by Stu » 13 Jul 2020 07:55

slowerthantime wrote:
13 Jul 2020 06:41
Hey Stu, nice work.

Have you tried copper weld through primer? I got much better results with it vs zinc.
Thanks.

I have not. Does the copper based stuff weld clean or does it sputter and spark when the arc starts?
Stu

72 4-door 510
Factory Five Racing Cobra
2005 Mini Cooper S
91 Ford F250 4x4 extended cab

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