Corey's 510 dream.

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banzai510(hainz)
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Re: Corey's 510 dream.

Post by banzai510(hainz) » 17 Mar 2009 09:09

like this
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Church
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Re: Corey's 510 dream.

Post by Church » 17 Mar 2009 09:29

CorAce wrote:And what about the sticky water valve and adjustment cables? I am kind of stumped on that part, so any help would be great.
Here's write-up on rebuilding your heater.
http://www.510coop.com/heater/

CorAce
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Re: Corey's 510 dream.

Post by CorAce » 17 Mar 2009 12:30

Thanks guys. As far as the wiring go’s, when I yarded it out of the engine compartment I found it had some bigger problems. For instance the fuse box is F%*!ed, looks like some one set fire to the under side of it. And just a bunch of cuts and splices throughout the rest of it. I guess all an all, I will be able to do it right when I rewire it. As for the heater, thanks for the link. I took my valve apart per the directions and found a big hunk of “stop leak” stuck in it. The rubber plunger looks like it might be ok :? , so I cleaned it all up and painted it all pretty and put it back together. Easiest thing I’ve done on the car yet. I was thinking of hooking it up to the garden hose to presser test it, but I don’t know if that would be too much presser or not. Any comments?

Hey, one other thing. How do I get the battery tray out? I tried busting the spot welds with a chisel and ended up poking a hole in the fender wall! :shock: such a dumb ass some times.
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defdes
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Re: Corey's 510 dream.

Post by defdes » 17 Mar 2009 13:57

CorAce wrote:
Hey, one other thing. How do I get the battery tray out? I tried busting the spot welds with a chisel and ended up poking a hole in the fender wall! :shock: such a dumb ass some times.
On both of the cars that I have done that's the way you do it. Even the spot weld removal bits will make a hole. MIG up the holes, grind and putty.

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sdterrible1
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Re: Corey's 510 dream.

Post by sdterrible1 » 17 Mar 2009 15:47

i usually drill the spot welds out and then weld the holes up. It seemed to work goog for me 8)
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goichi1
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Re: Corey's 510 dream.

Post by goichi1 » 17 Mar 2009 16:20

yea, there is no way to just rip it off there without tearing the inner fender to shit....get a spot weld drill bit and drill just enough to get past the batter try, then it just leaves a small hole in the inner fender, then it's easy to weld up. then I made two cuts, one along the inner crease that runs parrallel to the floor, then cut the inner crease that runs up parrallel to the strut tower, pushed it out, little dolly work and the welded it back up, more dolly work and then a very light filler, if you dolly it right it doesn't take much filler, then primer, and paint, makes for a really nice finish, makes both sides match and looks like the battery was never there.....don't take that much time either, and you get to practice your welding while you do it!!

CorAce
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Re: Corey's 510 dream.

Post by CorAce » 17 Mar 2009 16:59

Well I don’t feel so bad now. It sounds like every thing else on the car, if you don’t like it cut it off and weld it up. I got a small wire feed welder to work on this project but I'm finding it kind of sucks. It's probable operator error. I usually end up making more holes than I fill.
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defdes
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Re: Corey's 510 dream.

Post by defdes » 17 Mar 2009 17:39

Probably a wire/temp issue. For 110 welders I always run .023 wire as it is the thinnest and burns with the least amount of amperage which these small welders have a problem with generating. Thinner wire will allow you to turn down the machine but still have good penetration. Thick wire like .030 or .035, you will have to run at a higher amperage in order to melt it, but since your base metal (auto body) is thin, you will tend to burn thru. Hope this helps.

CorAce
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Re: Corey's 510 dream.

Post by CorAce » 17 Mar 2009 18:14

Ya that helps a lot :) . I’ll read the manual and see what the smallest wire this unit will except is, and give that a shot. Should that cut down on the hellfire spatter as well?
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goichi1
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Re: Corey's 510 dream.

Post by goichi1 » 17 Mar 2009 18:35

are you using the flux core wire or a shielding gas? it's probably best to use the shielding gas, that will greatly cut down on the spatter. i went through all this when I bought my welder, it's a 110 wire feed also, just getting it setup is key, that metal is so thin....it very easy to just punch right thru with the wire.....takes some practice, but it's fun learning on the holes first! then move on to seam welding....you get better as you go!!

CorAce
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Re: Corey's 510 dream.

Post by CorAce » 17 Mar 2009 18:52

It’s a 0.8mm flux core. Sounds like I need new wire. This is all good to know, I was thinking I needed a new welder $$$$. I love buying new tools as much as the next guy, but I would rather get 510 parts instead.

Thanks guys!
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defdes
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Re: Corey's 510 dream.

Post by defdes » 17 Mar 2009 21:18

Flux core....nooooooooooooo. Very high penetrating and very messy slag (in the wrong hands). Get some .023 mig wire and some STEELMIX gas Argon/CO2, and you'll be fine. You will have to change the polarity of your machine when you change wire, look in the manual. It's usually just unplugging 2 copper tabs and plugging them in opposite orientation on the posts they came off of.

CorAce
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Re: Corey's 510 dream.

Post by CorAce » 18 Mar 2009 20:44

Unfortunately my P-O-S welder won’t do gas, It will only do .030 & .035 flux core wire. I guess I can’t complain, I got it new from a friend for $50, Harbor Freight special. :roll:
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CorAce
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Re: Corey's 510 dream.

Post by CorAce » 13 Apr 2009 19:05

All right guys I got a question for you … I’ve been considering a satin black paint job with a gloss black variation of the BRE side stripes. I have done a couple of searches online and found a lot of info about flat/satin paint jobs, but it’s all very conflicting. So my question is, do any of you Datsun dudes have any experience with this type of paint, application, maintenance, and longevity?
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Derek
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Re: Corey's 510 dream.

Post by Derek » 13 Apr 2009 23:24

There isn't anything too special about satin paint -- you can do it with a normal single stage paint with a dulling agent -- I painted a set of wheels and a bunch of suspension components this way.

Keep in mind that satin black looks good only if a car is perfectly straight.

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