Rheis' 72 4door
Re: Rheis' 72 4door
Let me ask one question about this motor - what is special about the pistons that warrants them being retained over simply boring the block and going that route?
Re: Rheis' 72 4door
nothing is special about them.. its just about $800 for new custom pistons? although $800 isn't a whole lot considering how much everything else costs so ... and I'm not too sure about how much more the block can be bored over. I was hoping to get this motor together and installed soon but I guess its going to have to wait till next summer
Re: Rheis' 72 4door
So I have a update... the block went to a machine shop to be honed and it turned out great. They also took a look at the pistons to make sure all the clearences were correct, removed the old rings etc. Unfortunately #4 has a broken 3rd ring land. The good news is its a Nissan piston. It measures aprox 86mm diameter and 38mm from center of pin to top (measured with a crappy plastic caliper) it has the nissan emblem stamped inside the skirt with a 4 beside it. Opposite inside skirt marked AT5U61 and the top of the piston says STD P90. According to Jason Grey engine spec page I asssume it is "L28 (early)---------- 38.1mm /10.90cc dish in 280Z, early ZX.('75-'80)/ 86mm bore" So where should I get this piston from? I have heard going to the Nissan dealer is expensive but if the quality is better and it will be exact same who cares about $. Also is the dealer where I should pick up my rings and bearings? what kind of rings? moly.. chrome..?
thanks
thanks
Re: Rheis' 72 4door
Its been a while again so I figure its time for an update on the turbo project. Haven't done a whole lot since I last posted almost 2 years ago due to being in school, working as an apprentice and bad weather.
Shortly after my last post, on the 2010 summer club drive, my 1800 developed a rod knock. Not thinking, I figured I'd have lots of time to just get on with the turbo project so I pulled the motor. I regret not fixing it to be able to drive it in the meantime. Anyways...
Later on I realized I didn't know much about putting together an engine, let alone a turbo engine so I searched for someone that could help. After hearing mixed reviews of some near by shops and having had some parts ruined by other mechanics in the past, I figured I should use a Datsun specialist. Having used Andy at Specialty for many other things, I figured I'd bite the bullet and go that route. Although he can be expensive, he knows what he is doing and why pay to have something done twice? Not to mention look at Keith's motor. How many years has it been going? So I brought all my stuff to Andy and told him to build me a motor. I also mentioned if he wants to overbuild it for more hp than my goal of 200 that's fine (future upgrade? ). I let him know to take his time because I wouldn't be needing it right away. So roughly a year and a bit later, here it is, grabbed it in February
Shortly after my last post, on the 2010 summer club drive, my 1800 developed a rod knock. Not thinking, I figured I'd have lots of time to just get on with the turbo project so I pulled the motor. I regret not fixing it to be able to drive it in the meantime. Anyways...
Later on I realized I didn't know much about putting together an engine, let alone a turbo engine so I searched for someone that could help. After hearing mixed reviews of some near by shops and having had some parts ruined by other mechanics in the past, I figured I should use a Datsun specialist. Having used Andy at Specialty for many other things, I figured I'd bite the bullet and go that route. Although he can be expensive, he knows what he is doing and why pay to have something done twice? Not to mention look at Keith's motor. How many years has it been going? So I brought all my stuff to Andy and told him to build me a motor. I also mentioned if he wants to overbuild it for more hp than my goal of 200 that's fine (future upgrade? ). I let him know to take his time because I wouldn't be needing it right away. So roughly a year and a bit later, here it is, grabbed it in February
Last edited by Rheis on 01 May 2012 23:44, edited 1 time in total.
- two_68_510s
- Supporter
- Posts: 3894
- Joined: 18 Apr 2010 11:20
- Location: Ben Lomond California
Re: Rheis' 72 4door
Cool to see the motor ready to go.
What did Andy do to make it work for your turbo/more HP?
What did Andy do to make it work for your turbo/more HP?
Joel
2 '68 510 2 door sedans
'95 240SX
“We will either find a way, or make one.” – Hannibal
2 '68 510 2 door sedans
'95 240SX
“We will either find a way, or make one.” – Hannibal
Re: Rheis' 72 4door
I also had James build an exhaust manifold for me as some of you may have seen in some of his posts. Thanks again James
Also during a trip to California at the beginning of last year I picked up this from the Turbonetics factory . Very nice friendly people, turns out I wasn't supposed to be there unless I was a dealer but the still sold to me
Re: Rheis' 72 4door
More recently I have been finishing up painting the engine bay as I stopped last year when it started to get a bit cold for painting... more on this and pics
Re: Rheis' 72 4door
Some of the things off the top of my head are forged pistons, ported the head, I think the block was O-ringed, and the oil pump I believe is the higher volume one. If you are more interested in specifics pm me and I'll look up the invoice for you.two_68_510s wrote:Cool to see the motor ready to go.
What did Andy do to make it work for your turbo/more HP?
Re: Rheis' 72 4door
So as I had mentioned before I have been recently finishing up painting the engine compartment. Nothing too fancy, I just figured should give it some spray can black because most of it had peeled off when I degreased the compartment (probably bad prep from the PO). The main idea is to make it look better and stop the minor rust. On closer inspection, while working around the transmission tunnel, I noticed a bit of a rust hole near the center where the firewall turns down into the tunnel. After poking at it I found dirt to be coming out and was confused thinking that the dirt is inside the car behind the heater core? Anyways, I was informed that it was a drain and that it was probably plugged with dirt I never knew about this cowl drain. It was recommended to me it be removed to check for damage. Having no bodywork experience besides with cleaning and painting parts and the underbody I was extremely hesitant to remove this panel. However, after poking and getting mounds of dirt out I was convinced removing the panel was the best option. May as well, the engine is out right? and I definitely don't want it to spread and cause more problems. Talking to Tyson, who has been very helpful in taking me through the process, was much help.. thanks again. Turns out it wasn't so bad taking it off after all.
Here is how I did it:
Started off by grinding off the upper spot welds with a dremel very carefully taking my time not to go through. There's about 7 or 8 welds. As a note the holes on the top are not from the dremel they started as a tiny rust bubble I was poking at Next I moved onto the other ones with a spot weld removal bit from KMS tools $10.. as a note I used the dremel on top because the drill wouldn't get the angle. Its important to drill square and slow not to nick the panel behind. I also drilled small shallow pilot holes to center the bit and wd-40 as lube After cutting I was using a flat head screwdriver with light hammer taps to slowly pry the panels apart so they would just rip and pop, this required a bit more dremel in some spots and going a bit deeper with the bit. The key is not to rush go slow a little at a time or you will go through a piece you don't want to.
Should pop off and look like this Lucky me there is only heavy scale and no apparent holes so now I have to clean it and replace the panel sometime this week
Here is how I did it:
Started off by grinding off the upper spot welds with a dremel very carefully taking my time not to go through. There's about 7 or 8 welds. As a note the holes on the top are not from the dremel they started as a tiny rust bubble I was poking at Next I moved onto the other ones with a spot weld removal bit from KMS tools $10.. as a note I used the dremel on top because the drill wouldn't get the angle. Its important to drill square and slow not to nick the panel behind. I also drilled small shallow pilot holes to center the bit and wd-40 as lube After cutting I was using a flat head screwdriver with light hammer taps to slowly pry the panels apart so they would just rip and pop, this required a bit more dremel in some spots and going a bit deeper with the bit. The key is not to rush go slow a little at a time or you will go through a piece you don't want to.
Should pop off and look like this Lucky me there is only heavy scale and no apparent holes so now I have to clean it and replace the panel sometime this week
- McShagger510
- Posts: 1821
- Joined: 26 Mar 2004 20:55
- Location: East Van, Canada
Re: Rheis' 72 4door
Neat. I've never seen this panel removed before. In the past I used a coat hanger and a good blast with the garden hose to unclog that drain. How are you going to reattach that panel Rheis?
James
James
The person with the sun in their eyes has the right of way. - my brother
'72 2dr. 510 Turbo
'73 240Z all stock
'71 2dr. 510 stock......for now
'91 Nissan truck *SOLD*
'02 TOYOTA Tacoma
'78 Kawasaki Z1-R
'84 Kawasaki GPZ750 Turbo
'99 Kawasaki ZRX1100
'72 2dr. 510 Turbo
'73 240Z all stock
'71 2dr. 510 stock......for now
'91 Nissan truck *SOLD*
'02 TOYOTA Tacoma
'78 Kawasaki Z1-R
'84 Kawasaki GPZ750 Turbo
'99 Kawasaki ZRX1100
Re: Rheis' 72 4door
The plan is to use panel bond (I don't think I can weld without going through ) although I need to borrow the gun from someone because its about $200 for the special dispensing gun aloneMcShagger510 wrote:Neat. I've never seen this panel removed before. In the past I used a coat hanger and a good blast with the garden hose to unclog that drain. How are you going to reattach that panel Rheis?
James
I think it is also neat to see behind. It be cool to run some lines and throw a oil cooler up in the cowl or something. I don't think its possible though.
- two_68_510s
- Supporter
- Posts: 3894
- Joined: 18 Apr 2010 11:20
- Location: Ben Lomond California
Re: Rheis' 72 4door
510 Archeology!
Joel
2 '68 510 2 door sedans
'95 240SX
“We will either find a way, or make one.” – Hannibal
2 '68 510 2 door sedans
'95 240SX
“We will either find a way, or make one.” – Hannibal
Re: Rheis' 72 4door
Im starting to wonder, if I am unable to borrow one of these guns, if I can use some 3M VHB tape. It seems it is used in manufacturing of commercial and recreational vehicles. http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/e ... /VHB-Tape/ The only thing is being behind my motor it might get quite hot and I havent noticed any information on application temperatures etc etc. It would be nice to be able to peel it off later if needed and I believe it would alow me to paint both materials fully. I will have to look into this a bit more. Actually the foam version is what gopro supplies to stick the mounts down.
Re: Rheis' 72 4door
Evercoat makes a two part panel adhesive that comes in a normal tube. It is applied with a standard HD caulking gun and is sold at Napa for $45.Rheis wrote:Im starting to wonder, if I am unable to borrow one of these guns
Chad
In just two days from now, tomorrow will be yesterday.