Jordan's '72 2 door KA project

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JordanTr
Posts: 943
Joined: 20 Feb 2013 22:27
Location: Langley, BC, Canada

Re: Jordan's '72 2 door KA project

Post by JordanTr » 09 Jul 2019 20:13

I had a week of "vacation" to work on the ole Datsun. Nothing like a shop week to make 8 hour days back at work go by fast!

In the instalment:
Exhaust rev 4+
Camber plates
CV driveline

The plan for the week was to get the car drive-able enough (back to stock NA) that I could get it home (600 miles from pa's shop) to finish off the nagging little things (like ghetto brake lines!). I was very close to making it happen but at least I have a car that is semi-functional again for a while.

I needed an exhaust since I sold the old rusty conglomerate and I now don't have a hole in the crossmember to fit it through anyways! I toyed with the idea of running the NA KA header to a 3" exhaust since that's what I'd need for booost anyways but I opted to go with a proper sized 2.25" system. To keep things simple, I used an S14 manifold since it goes straight to a single pipe vs. the S13 4/2/1 system. Thanks to Jeff and his rack setup for providing the necessary space!

Started at this flange (ID of the cast parts is almost identical to ID of 16ga 2.5" tubing so I used that for the downpipe.

Image510 7.2019 by TRZ Fab, on Flickr

Image510 7.2019 by TRZ Fab, on Flickr

Thankfully I have a fantastic water-jet guy in Port Kells who makes quick work of little projects. I had the header flange cut from 3/8" 304SS. Thankfully I noticed the offset center hole when I was dimensioning the flange!

Image510 7.2019 by TRZ Fab, on Flickr

Image510 7.2019 by TRZ Fab, on Flickr

Image510 7.2019 by TRZ Fab, on Flickr

Image510 7.2019 by TRZ Fab, on Flickr

Image510 7.2019 by TRZ Fab, on Flickr

Image510 7.2019 by TRZ Fab, on Flickr

Image510 7.2019 by TRZ Fab, on Flickr

I was able to repurpose some exhaust hangers from the Q45 I wrecked to get the BBS wheels I had for this once upon a time.

Image510 7.2019 by TRZ Fab, on Flickr

The body of the exhaust is 2.25" with a Vibrant 1790 bottle resonator and a Magnaflow 11255 muffler. I was able to tuck a V band under the trans output shaft and one after the rear crossmember. Unsurprisingly, the reworked rear xmember makes for nice exhaust routing.

Image510 7.2019 by TRZ Fab, on Flickr

I went with 2.25" into the muffler and a 2.5" pipe cut turn down tip. I'm hoping its functionality makes up for its looks.

Image510 7.2019 by TRZ Fab, on Flickr

Image510 7.2019 by TRZ Fab, on Flickr


Camber Plates
________________
I first designed a set in 2012 and have periodically refined them to make them easier to build, less custom parts etc. and I finally settled on a somewhat goofy design that combines camber and caster changes by have the adjustment at an angle. There are 3 positions that the slotted plate can be installed: primarily camber, primarily caster, or a happy medium. The way my car is set up, the happy medium zone is able to push the strut tops rearward 1" without changing the camber. The ground control lower plate is re-used so only some minor machining is required on the new plates. The best part? CAPTIVE METRIC FASTENERS!

I opted to space the camber plates down to prevent and strut tower hacking.

Image510 7.2019 by TRZ Fab, on Flickr

Was able to get the proper countersink bit which was very satisfying to use.
Image510 7.2019 by TRZ Fab, on Flickr

Image510 7.2019 by TRZ Fab, on Flickr

Image510 7.2019 by TRZ Fab, on Flickr

Image510 7.2019 by TRZ Fab, on Flickr

Image510 7.2019 by TRZ Fab, on Flickr

Image510 7.2019 by TRZ Fab, on Flickr

Spacers are a bit of a goofy shape
Image510 7.2019 by TRZ Fab, on Flickr

If anyone has GC camber plates and wants some more caster... hit me up. I could make a few sets of these.

CV Driveline
______________
Well, I've talked about it for a while but I made it happen now. I worked with Pat's to shrink a disk onto the S13 yoke and then machine for a pilot on a scavenged flange from a BNR32 companion flange. After that, I took it from the shop and TIG welded the disc to the flange part at home since they didn't have capabilities for that. I love welding big mild steel parts. It's very satisfying. I used pre and post heat and welded in 2 passes. The shop was able to get it together and then balance the whole shebang so it must not have warped too badly. Before welding I had tapped both the intermediate disc and the BNR32 flange chunk to M12x1.25 and secured to the 3 bolt pattern on the yoke with some class 12.9 SHCS.

Image510 7.2019 by TRZ Fab, on Flickr

Scavenged BNR32 chunk.
Image510 7.2019 by TRZ Fab, on Flickr

Dummy assembly so I could mock up a driveshaft and get the proper length.
Image510 7.2019 by TRZ Fab, on Flickr

Old and dummy shafts.
Image510 7.2019 by TRZ Fab, on Flickr

As received before welding
Image510 7.2019 by TRZ Fab, on Flickr

Tacked
Image510 7.2019 by TRZ Fab, on Flickr

Root pass (note that it's now bolted too!)
Image510 7.2019 by TRZ Fab, on Flickr

All done and match marked.
Image510 7.2019 by TRZ Fab, on Flickr

Image510 7.2019 by TRZ Fab, on Flickr

Image510 7.2019 by TRZ Fab, on Flickr

I welded up a nice 2.75" intake with leftovers from pa, plumbed in the new rad, cannibalized some new S13 rad hoses and coupled them with little stainless pie cut pieces. etc etc.

Image510 7.2019 by TRZ Fab, on Flickr

Image510 7.2019 by TRZ Fab, on Flickr

Image510 7.2019 by TRZ Fab, on Flickr

Image510 7.2019 by TRZ Fab, on Flickr

So after all that, I take it for a couple driveway rips and it's good to go. I swapped the plates over and did my classic 4 mile loop. When I came home, I noticed a ruthless drip from the pinion seal on the diff (this is the 3.9 I built last year with a 1.5 way). After pulling the drain plug and finding it full of fresh, sharp filings, I pulled the plug on the Datsun for this trip since I had to leave in ~10 hours.

I had great fun driving the Crowsnest in the Silvia. I left at Keith timing (on the road at 5) so there were great roads all the way to Osoyoos. I love how well sorted that car is. Met up with Matt who just got out of the 510 game and forced him to take Silvia for a rip... He definitely got his turbo fix for the day!

Silvia safe at new home.
Image510 7.2019 by TRZ Fab, on Flickr

Next on the 510 list:
Working diff
Re-work trans tunnel doghouse
Re-work brake lines
etc.
Hopefully soon I can get it going with the S13 SR ECU and individual coilpacks/Nistune etc. Once that works, then I can get back on the turbo bandwagon! Too many house projects these days!
'72 2 door KA project | S14 RB26DETT (sold)| S14 RB25DET | '90 Audi 90Q20V (sold)

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gooned
Posts: 811
Joined: 07 Jul 2003 23:19
Location: Langley

Re: Jordan's '72 2 door KA project

Post by gooned » 09 Jul 2019 21:55

Big update!

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icehouse
Posts: 3490
Joined: 17 Jul 2005 17:06
Location: Everett Wa

Re: Jordan's '72 2 door KA project

Post by icehouse » 14 Jul 2019 03:46

How did the steering feel on the 5 mile drive?
"People don't like it when shit doesn't match their rule of thumb." Sam

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JordanTr
Posts: 943
Joined: 20 Feb 2013 22:27
Location: Langley, BC, Canada

Re: Rack Impressions

Post by JordanTr » 14 Jul 2019 07:16

icehouse wrote:
14 Jul 2019 03:46
How did the steering feel on the 5 mile drive?
Right... the steering rack!

It's certainly way tighter than it used to be and no more effort than I remember despite the new caster. Unfortunately, I have not had the car plated since Sep. 2017 so it's hard to remember exactly what it felt like. I didn't really push the car since I was getting used to the nuances of an old rattlebox all over again. I also lost the front sway bar in the process of repositioning the engine so that's a bit of a sad news story in the handling department right now. Sufficed to say, it's a bit of an apples to oranges comparison right now but the initial impression is great! The 2.5 turns L-L means that there is a definite reaction in the car when you turn the wheel compared to the old steering box.

The good news is that I'll be back at the shop in a couple weeks to throw another diff in the car. Let's hope it behaves after that! The driving ambiance will improve dramatically once the trans tunnel cover is all rebuilt as well.
'72 2 door KA project | S14 RB26DETT (sold)| S14 RB25DET | '90 Audi 90Q20V (sold)

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JordanTr
Posts: 943
Joined: 20 Feb 2013 22:27
Location: Langley, BC, Canada

Re: Jordan's '72 2 door KA project

Post by JordanTr » 23 Nov 2019 22:54

Today marks an exciting day... After years of planning to modify and do Nistune etc. on the engine, I have the engine running on an S13 SR20DET ECU with Nistune and Audi R8 coilpacks. So far, all that it has is a stock SR tune with resized injectors from 370 to 270cc.

I modified the harness to remove the old coil and provide outputs for the coilpacks. The power architecture is the same between the SR and KA ecus so nothing changes there.
The reference marks between the SR and KA CAS optical discs are different so the SR disc must be used in the KA distributor.
Image510 by TRZ Fab, on Flickr

The clocking on the CAS shaft is different as well so timing it is a bit of a challenge. I mocked up the relationship between the flat key of the CAS wheel and the optical pickup of the SR CAS when it was located at the timing marks (TDC power stroke).

SR timing marks
Image510 by TRZ Fab, on Flickr

SR CAS with KA wheel. Note the flat key to pickup angle
Image510 by TRZ Fab, on Flickr

KA dizzy with SR optical disc. Note the angle is very similar. First attempt!
Image510 by TRZ Fab, on Flickr

After the one tooth adjustment. It actually runs here!
Image510 by TRZ Fab, on Flickr

I oriented the KA to the same spot by rotating it by hand and peeking through the oil cap the see the #1 exhaust cam lobe pointed away from the motor. Then I inserted the franken-CAS and tried my best to mimic the clocking as shown on the SR CAS at the timing marks. This ended up being 1 tooth off but it was close enough to get it going.

The S13 SR uses a "skinny" titania heated O2 sensor (M12x1.25 threads) whereas the KA uses a fatty (M18x1.5 thread) single wire/non-heated O2 sensor. I had to adapt the threads to accept the new O2 sensor. Thankfully I had purchased new spare O2 sensors while working on Golddust so those met the bill perfectly.

Image510 by TRZ Fab, on Flickr

First run video here. Timing still needs to get set properly.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=irTFqbdXCdg

Rich but running! Much wiring clean-up to do still.
Image510 by TRZ Fab, on Flickr

I spent some time distracted this week since I picked up an '88 Z31T for the LSD rear end. The car is all dismantled and ready to live on in other cars!
I've basically searched for ~8 years to find one of these!!!

Image510 by TRZ Fab, on Flickr
Image510 by TRZ Fab, on Flickr

The plan now is to get the car running well with new injectors and new MAF (R35 in 3" tube).
I now have in hand brand new AC Delco 6.2L E85 Escalade injectors that are ~550cc/min. They're Bosch EV14s with a normal cone spray pattern. They are compact size so that when installed with the Radium fuel rail, they should be pretty unobtrusive. The best part is that they're new tech only $38 USD per.

More updates soon!
'72 2 door KA project | S14 RB26DETT (sold)| S14 RB25DET | '90 Audi 90Q20V (sold)

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MarkReidHRC
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Location: Langley BC
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Re: Jordan's '72 2 door KA project

Post by MarkReidHRC » 24 Nov 2019 08:36

Nice Work! Would love to see the car in person somtime as I live in Langley also.
If all else fails... try again

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JordanTr
Posts: 943
Joined: 20 Feb 2013 22:27
Location: Langley, BC, Canada

Re: Jordan's '72 2 door KA project

Post by JordanTr » 04 Jan 2020 10:33

2020 is here and my 510 has now provided me with nearly 10 1/2 years of wrenching delight!

Over Christmas I was able to put a little more time into the car. This instalment features:
-Radium fuel rail and L9H injector install (ACD #12609749) 54#/hr @ 4bar
-R35 MAF sensor install
-Reworked wastegate actuator

I realize I missed a few pictures from the R8 coilpack installation. I ended up removing the upper rubber boots and trimming some of the plastic to allow the coilpacks to properly seat on the spark plug nubs.
Image510 Jan 2020 by TRZ Fab, on Flickr

With the ring of plastic removed they're just long enough to engage the spark plugs properly.

Image510 Jan 2020 by TRZ Fab, on Flickr

I welded my SS R35 MAF adapter into some 3" SS tubing so that I could insert it in place of the stock air box/MAF. I'll have to get another MAF adapter to weld into the turbo suction piping when it comes time to add the boost.

Image510 Jan 2020 by TRZ Fab, on Flickr

Image510 Jan 2020 by TRZ Fab, on Flickr

I added the honeycomb to try to normalize the airflow and get more reliable readings.

Image510 Jan 2020 by TRZ Fab, on Flickr

Image510 Jan 2020 by TRZ Fab, on Flickr


Beacause of the turbo reclocking, I needed to re-do the wastegate mounting so that it could be bolted on. A little bit of cutting and welding later, I ended up with the scenario below. It took a little bit of fiddling to get a little but not too much preload on the wastegate.

Image510 Jan 2020 by TRZ Fab, on Flickr

Image510 Jan 2020 by TRZ Fab, on Flickr

Image510 Jan 2020 by TRZ Fab, on Flickr

Image510 Jan 2020 by TRZ Fab, on Flickr

The Radium fuel rail is shown below with the GM L9H injectors installed. The kit is nice since it comes with bolts and phenolic spacers (brown) to suit both EV14 standard injectors and EV14 short injectors (which these are). You have to select fittings to fill the 3 -8ORB ports and an 1/8 NPT port on the top of the rail. An adapter for the stock FPR is available so I sprung for that.

Image510 Jan 2020 by TRZ Fab, on Flickr

After installing, I found that the line routing looked trashy and sloppy (don't comment on the wiring yet!!) so I got an ORB elbow to allow the fuel feed to come from below at the center to tuck that line a bit. I was able to source one locally in Langley which is always a treat. I replaced the O ring with a viton one and was off to the races.

Image510 Jan 2020 by TRZ Fab, on Flickr

Image510 Jan 2020 by TRZ Fab, on Flickr

I also sourced some OEM equivalent 5/16 fuel lines to replace the cheap 50psi line I had from the local FLAPS. It's Continental SAE J30R9 fuel hose that's rated for 225psi. It has a viton blend that's happier with ethanol in the fuel as well. It's smooth, flexible, and slightly smaller OD than the cheap lines so the OEM fuel line clamps work well. Worth every penny IMO. Once boost hits, the line pressure will actually exceed 50psi as well.

After systematically changing the injectors out and then the R35 MAF, I was able to get the car running quite well in closed loop mode with minimal fuel trims. I still need to do some work tuning but it's an encouraging start anyways.

Image510 Jan 2020 by TRZ Fab, on Flickr

I picked up a little belt sander off Craigslist and replaced all the bearings and the drive sheave/belt to speed it up so it's better for metal work. It runs like a dream now so I can slowly accumulate items to do fab stuff in my own shop.

Image510 Jan 2020 by TRZ Fab, on Flickr

I helped a buddy shorten his struts as well and we went assembly line style and shortened my spare set to suit AW11 rear inserts as well.

Image510 Jan 2020 by TRZ Fab, on Flickr

More tuning next time. Hopefully while actually driving the thing!
'72 2 door KA project | S14 RB26DETT (sold)| S14 RB25DET | '90 Audi 90Q20V (sold)

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icehouse
Posts: 3490
Joined: 17 Jul 2005 17:06
Location: Everett Wa

Re: Jordan's '72 2 door KA project

Post by icehouse » 05 Jan 2020 18:15

Not sure it will apply since you have boost. We tried an air straightener on the MAF in our enduro car. Made the car way slower. Like noticeable low end power loss. Maybe do a couple pulls with it out to make sure it doesn’t effect your power.
"People don't like it when shit doesn't match their rule of thumb." Sam

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JordanTr
Posts: 943
Joined: 20 Feb 2013 22:27
Location: Langley, BC, Canada

Re: Jordan's '72 2 door KA project

Post by JordanTr » 20 Mar 2020 21:17

I was able to spend some time on the car while I was in the city again before things started to get covid crazy.
I've been collecting parts for quite a while so that I can run hard lines like the OEM ones for water and oil to to the turbo.

For water feed:
1/4" BSPT male to M14x1.5 female
M14 banjo bolt/washers
M14 banjo to 3/8" SS tube
3/8" SS tube to M18 banjo

Image

The nice round bend would for sure hit the steering shaft so I opted for a snugger option.

Image
For water return:
M18 banjo to 3/8" tube
3/8" SS tube
3/8" hose teed into existing water circuit (TBD)

[no pics]

For oil feed:
1/8" MNPT elbow to 1/4" swagelok
1/4" x 0.035 SS tubing
M12 Banjo to 1/4" tube

I ended up getting the weld/silver solder banjos from the UK since I could not source any here.

Image

Oil drain:
I coaxed the OEM RB25 oil drain into a different shape with a pin bar and some heat. The lower part is a mandrel bent SS elbow. I had to weld it right into the oil pan due to how low the engine sits and the tight proximity of the engine mount, steering shaft, rack mounts.

Image

While I had the oil pan off the spare block to weld in the oil drain, I figured it would be a good opportunity to machine the adapter necessary for my oil pressure sender and weld it in as well. I had bought the required M22x1.5 tap long ago for this task and recently got fresh carbides for the lathe tooling which makes the job much more of a joy.

Image

I was able to get a day permit for the car so I could try and get myself a little more familiar with Nistune. I feel like I have the car in a pretty good spot right now. It could probably use some time consuming tweaks on the start tables but a lay person would not be able to tell that it isn't tuned so that's good. It doesn't burp and fart like carbureted stuff!
Unfortunately, my tuning was cut short by a rain storm. I was trying to mess with the K const so I could get the load scaling correct so that the calculated load would reach the final columns of the fuel and timing tables. Without reaching the final columns, there is less resolution than OEM. Once the boost hits, the calculated load goes much higher because of increased flow in the MAF so then the K const will be reduced to avoid getting pinned on the final column of the tables. Obviously there are still some mechanical installation things to get through before that...

While I was down on the coast, I found a used fat bike for shoulder season here in Kimberley. It has 26x4.8" tires so it should be great for snowy or mushy trails once I get it up here!

Image

Between the bike and another car.... It wasn't the most productive weekend on the ole Datsun.
'72 2 door KA project | S14 RB26DETT (sold)| S14 RB25DET | '90 Audi 90Q20V (sold)

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eastbaysolo_73
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Location: Northern California

Re: Jordan's '72 2 door KA project

Post by eastbaysolo_73 » 23 Mar 2020 11:24

Sweet build keep up the good work.
1970 2 door sr20det cookie cutter build
My build thread
http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=30772
Nor Cal Meng !

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