Anth's '69 510 FJ20ET from AUS

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anth
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Anth's '69 510 FJ20ET from AUS

Post by anth » 25 Sep 2009 01:54

Hey guys, I've posted on here and Ratsun a few times, so I thought I might as well show my like-minded US datto lovers my car, since I've just written up a build thread for another forum. Here goes...

I won't put all the progress pics here but if anyone's interested in all the details just head to the Project 510 section of my blog. http://www.build-threads.com/category/p ... 10/page/4/ (as with all blogs its all in reverse chronological order, so head to the start and work your way back)

1969 Datsun 1600

Body
Ford Sno White respray (previous owner)
Re-chromed rear bumper & numberplate light surround
NOS tail lights
Mk1 Volkswagen GTI front lip
'73 JDM grille & headlight surrounds
GT teardrop mirrors

Engine/Driveline
FJ20ET, 3" exhaust, 155kw at the wheels
5spd gbox
R180 LSD

Suspension
Front struts converted to coilover, shortened 50mm
Koni Yellow Z31 inserts, damper adjustable
T3 Weld-on coilover kit
T3 adjustable camber tops
Nissan America 1" bump steer spacers
Troy Ermish Racing rear coilovers
Whiteline swaybars front & rear

Brakes
F: Mitsubishi Verada discs & VL Holden Commodore calipers
R: R31 Skyline discs

Interior
N13 Pulsar front seats (not recommended, too soft, installed by previous owner)
Autotechnica Steering wheel
White venetian rear blind

Wheels
Work Ewing III (refurbed by me)
F: 15x6.5 +21
R: 15x7 +16
Hankook 195/45/15 tyres


Future plans:
Front mount intercooler (purchased), alloy radiator, modified plenum to clear intercooler piping (purchased)
WRX front seats re-trimmed to match stock rear seat, new door trims, Nardi Classic steering wheel (wood or leather, can't decide).
Wolf Creek CV conversion (purchased, in transit), R32 RB20 gearbox
A re-spray would be nice but not for a while

how I bought it...
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some of the mods...
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rear ended :(
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I'll update this thread from now on with any future mods :)

cheers :thumbsup:
Last edited by anth on 08 Jan 2012 19:34, edited 1 time in total.
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sdterrible1
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Re: Anth's '69 510 FJ20ET from AUS

Post by sdterrible1 » 25 Sep 2009 09:21

WOOO! Awsome pics!

Soo clean man!
Drive a Datsun

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S15DET
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Re: Anth's '69 510 FJ20ET from AUS

Post by S15DET » 25 Sep 2009 12:15

The air dam looks like a perfect fit. Is it, or did you have to massage it?
GREAT looking car, nice find.

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nickledimeme
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Re: Anth's '69 510 FJ20ET from AUS

Post by nickledimeme » 25 Sep 2009 23:26

Welcome to the realm....and nice looking ride. Very tastefully done. Your car has more of a true JDM style, than most 510's from OZ. I love the rear window louvers you guys run down under also.
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anth
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Re: Anth's '69 510 FJ20ET from AUS

Post by anth » 27 Sep 2009 17:45

thanks everyone :) nickledimeme your car is so damn perfect, you make me want to ditch my turbo setup in favour of ITBs!

The louvers, we call them "venetians" here. Me and my friends all run them on our cars, old-school cool!

S15DET, the airdam bolted straight up. For details & pics click here http://buildthreads.wordpress.com/2009/ ... 00-part-8/

I got featured on i put in WORK :D check it out

and heres some pics from some meets (i didnt take these)...
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(I hate speedbumps!)
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clean71
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Re: Anth's '69 510 FJ20ET from AUS

Post by clean71 » 27 Sep 2009 22:34

car looks great....love the wheels and the rear "venetians"....
1971 PL510 4DOOR AUTO
1969 PL510 WAGON 4SPD
1969 PL510 2DR 4SPD

nick64merc
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Re: Anth's '69 510 FJ20ET from AUS

Post by nick64merc » 02 Oct 2009 10:12

Where did you get that airdamn from? It looks really nice. Is it for another car.

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anth
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Re: Anth's '69 510 FJ20ET from AUS

Post by anth » 28 Oct 2009 00:25

yep its from a Mk1 VW Golf, or Rabbit as you guys know them. They call the lip a "large duckbill", as there are two kinds for those cars, large & small
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spoolinitup33
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Re: Anth's '69 510 FJ20ET from AUS

Post by spoolinitup33 » 28 Oct 2009 06:18

Beautiful car!!

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anth
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Re: Anth's '69 510 FJ20ET from AUS

Post by anth » 18 Nov 2009 00:01

It’s been a while since the last update, but work has been happening in the meantime.

With the low-ride height I like the datto to roll at, there are no doubts I would run into a few obstacles (both literally and mechanically). One of those is the extreme angle that the drive-shafts operate at. Since the 510’s and some other Datsuns use an old-school independent rear suspension setup, the driveshafts angle upwards further and further as you lower the car. Being an older type universal-joint design, there is a limit to how efficiently the shafts can operate at such an angle.

Thankfully the Datsun brand captured the imaginations and hearts of many people around the world over the years, and we are lucky enough to have companies such as Wolf Creek Racing catering to our needs.

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Wolf Creek came to the rescue with their custom made CV conversion kits for the R180/R200 long-nose diff’s. I had heard good things about this kit from reading reviews on both Australian & US-based forums. Their conversion kits are a complete bolt-in solution so they’re great for a DIY person like myself who likes to wrench on his own car within reason. Not only do these allow me to run the car at my desired height, but they’re also much stronger and more efficient. Being developed on the racetrack for car’s working a lot harder than mine, I can confidently give the car more stick with peace of mind knowing I have CV’s bolted in the rear.

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Here you can see where I’ve outlined the angle of the driveshafts at my current ride height. Probably a bit too extreme for the old universal shaft design. At any speed above 70km/h or so, the car would experience a harsh vibration from the which would get worse with increased road speed. Highways & freeways were out of the question, so I was being limited to where I would drive my car. There were two solutions. 1. Raise the car, or 2. buy a CV conversion. Naturally I chose option 2 (duh!). I sent Todd an email and we were instantly in talks to order my kit. He happily answered all my questions & concerns before I went ahead with it.

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As usual, the story starts a short time later with a package being delivered to my work, brightening my day for a split second.

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Inside I found my highly anticipated CV’s, with a cool retro sticker and clear detailed fitting instructions. Finally I would be able to enjoy my car above cruising speeds.

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The kit comes with 2 CV driveshafts, 4 billet adapters, grease, bolts and washers. Everything you need is provided. I love seeing brand new shiny machined billet parts, it just screams quality.

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Time to do work! Make sure you have your friends around to drink beer, crack jokes, fart, and generally not help you in any way. I kid, I kid! Actually it’s very handy to have someone around to yank the handbrake (e-brake) on and off so you can loosen the driveshaft nuts & rotate them at your request without having to get up and down all the time.

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I removed the rear coilovers to enable me to raise and lower the control arm with a jack. This helps with accessibility of the nuts & bolts holding the driveshafts in. Sometimes you need to change the angle of the uni to fit a spanner/wrench in a certain spot where the nut is.

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Passenger side driveshaft removed. You can see the line where it was rubbing on the exhaust occasionally, nasty!

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One side all clear. It’s nice to work on a clean undercarriage even though it’s an old car. I have the previous owners to thank for that.

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A 14mm socket should fit in the billet adapters, but mine was a fraction too large.

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A quick once-over on the bench grinder should do the trick.

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All better. To quote my favourite actor…”liiiike a glove!”

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The first adapter bolted to the diff…

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..and its matching partner bolted to the hub side.

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Now it’s time to pack the CV’s full of grease. This involves cutting the cable-ties/zip-ties off and freeing the CV so you can move it around, but be careful not to let them turn on too much of an angle otherwise the ball bearings will fall out and you will have great fun (not) in trying to reassemble them. Just ask me! Push the grease into all the crevices so it passes through to the other side.

Once they’re all greased up, I cable tied them back together and bolted them to the adapters, cutting the ties off once they’re loosely secured. There are 6 bolts on each end of both CV’s. No pictures here I’m afraid, as I was covered in grease and just wanted to finish the job.

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After one side was complete, I repeated the same process on the other side. I ended up unbolting my swaybar and mounting points and removed them completely, since it was disconnected from the control arms anyway. I needed the extra room swing the ratchet to tighten the bolts on the passenger CV. It was either remove the brackets or remove the exhaust, and I need an oxy torch for that, so that was out of the question since I don’t own one.

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It is recommended to use blue removable strength Loctite on all off the nuts and bolts. (Yes the bottle is red, but the actual product comes out blue)

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Something else that is recommended is to insert a small tube into the rubber boot to allow some ventilation, which prevents the boot from expanding. This is to try to keep the boot from catching on the exhaust and tearing. The instructions say to use the straw from a can of CRC spray or similar, so I used a piece of a remote control car arial that I had lying around. Extra scene points for the fluro colour.

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Here is the final product. One problem I ran into was the combined increased size of the adapter and CV was very close to the exhaust. The shafts in the middle are a much smaller diameter compared to the old driveshafts, but the ends are larger. You can see where I have marked the exhaust with a white pencil to be clearanced with a nice big hammer when I get a chance to take it out. I’m also planning to wrap it in heat tubing which should keep some heat off the CV boot (and look cool too). The rear end looks a lot cleaner without the swaybar and associated brackets. It looks serious under there now, the CV’s certainly are the business.

After it was all said and done, I took the car for a drive and enjoyed my nice new smooth car. No more vibrations, and just a much more smooth feeling in general, I can feel the decreased resistance in the drive, even when taking off slowly from a standstill. Being able to drive at highway speed was a feeling I’d almost forgotten, it was such a relief to cruise along without worrying about any vibrations.

Unfortunately, after my second or third drive, my increasingly deteriorating diff started to show more pronounced signs of wear. The car is currently at my workshop of choice having the diff removed so I can take it to a specialist to diagnose and hopefully fix it. I hope it’s nothing major as these long-nose LSD R180’s are fetching decent prices. Keep your fingers crossed for me!

Thanks again to Todd @ Wolf Creek Racing for all his help, excellent service, and fantastic product. Even from all the way over the other side of the world. It’s the Datsun industry people & business owners we have to thank for keeping our beloved cars alive and ever improving.
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icehouse
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Re: Anth's '69 510 FJ20ET from AUS

Post by icehouse » 18 Nov 2009 00:08

Nice now you can go lower :D

Sometimes I put sockets in the lathe at work for certain projects haha I have a bin of "specialty tools" :D
"People don't like it when shit doesn't match their rule of thumb." Sam

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anth
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Re: Anth's '69 510 FJ20ET from AUS

Post by anth » 18 Nov 2009 00:15

I need a custom Icehouse exhaust tunnel if I want to go any lower! :P

Specialty tools are the best. Grind, cut, heat, bend, whatever it takes!
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Re: Anth's '69 510 FJ20ET from AUS

Post by rnorrish » 18 Nov 2009 00:37

great write up! thanks for sharing.
richard norrish
'68 'goon resto / '71 ice racer / '72 'goon project / '70 4-door rust pile / '67 520 project
----------------------------------------------------------------------
shardik wrote: My swap will be made of solid gold and it will run on puppy farts.

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510wizard
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Re: Anth's '69 510 FJ20ET from AUS

Post by 510wizard » 18 Nov 2009 08:00

Great pictures! Thanks for documenting the process, I know that some times it is hard to stop what you are doing to take a few pics. Thanks again.

Monte

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anth
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Re: Anth's '69 510 FJ20ET from AUS

Post by anth » 24 Nov 2009 00:10

thanks guys :) yeah it can get tedious taking pics of everything, but having a blog all about build threads I have to lead by example! :lol:
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