The least reliable, "reliable L series" ever

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jim.nos
Posts: 112
Joined: 20 Apr 2009 21:07
Location: YVR

Re: The least reliable, "reliable L series" ever

Post by jim.nos »

Found time to pull the engine yesterday to discover a wonderful mess.

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This leaves me with a great point to start at for a build of my choosing. I'm set on keeping an L series in there (JordanTr was trying to sell me on a KA series carbed or EFI, but I don't think I could convince myself to put anything that wasn't original-ish in).
Baz wrote:Rear arms can be filled with 2 pack expanding foam.
Adds considerable strength & resistance to bending.
Excellent. This kind of info makes me more confident about the strength of using the coilovers that mount only onto the shock absorber dingle arm point on the rear trailing arm. I only have money to spend on the engine right now; suspension comes later.
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Byron510
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Posts: 12658
Joined: 01 Jul 2003 23:06
Location: Maple Ridge, BC

Re: The least reliable, "reliable L series" ever

Post by Byron510 »

Jim, did you find out what went through the engine?

I saw the car pulled off hwy 1 at Caribou last month - I was on my way to Metal Supermarket - I came back to lend assistance but the car was gone so I asume you got it sorted.

Keep us posted - glad to hear you'll stick with the old mill.

Byron
Love people and use things,
because the opposite never works.
jim.nos
Posts: 112
Joined: 20 Apr 2009 21:07
Location: YVR

Re: The least reliable, "reliable L series" ever

Post by jim.nos »

Byron510 wrote:Jim, did you find out what went through the engine?
Not sure exactly what yet (other than the visible missing piece of valve). More investigation soon.

I'm more in the process of reverse engineering what I have to build back in to.
The only thing I have firm is what I can read from the casting #s
Z22 block and U67 head.
Bore looks to be standard 87 mm but either through wear or a terrible bore they taper at the top by up to 0.008". This may have to do with the funny pistons (that look like they should be from something with 4 valves because of the cutouts?)
Head is shorter than it used to be because of the last head job I took it in for and it was shorter to begin with.
Cam has an asymmetrical and what looks to be quite aggressive grind.

Were pistons with those cutouts nissan parts or did they come from something else in a quest for a tiny bit less compression?

The only thing I have an attachment to are the carbs and they pretty intake and exhaust manifold. Anything else can be scrapped/swapped. Is Z22 and U67 still the way to go?
The damage to the cylinder walls seems like it could probably be remedied by a 1 mm overbore. Are there 88 mm pistons around (new or from somebody's collection)?
Byron510 wrote:I saw the car pulled off hwy 1 at Caribou last month - I was on my way to Metal Supermarket - I came back to lend assistance but the car was gone so I asume you got it sorted.
Last month, the throttle return spring decided to jump off its hanger as I was driving down the highway.
Called my father who came and we drove to Lordco for a replacement; sorted in less than 30 mins.


Fun picture time:
I got kicked out of the shop because this will not be a quick weekend project.
I couldn't get a car trailer quick enough and being a cheapass, I didn't get a pro to tow it.

So we put the 4 post lift, I got a truck from work, lined it up, rolled it on, then rolled it off at a level loading dock.
1977 vs 1968
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EDIT: 100 posts!
Last edited by jim.nos on 20 Jun 2013 22:29, edited 1 time in total.
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gooned
Posts: 1050
Joined: 07 Jul 2003 23:19
Location: Langley

Re: The least reliable, "reliable L series" ever

Post by gooned »

Hey I didn't know you were at Beaver! Last I bumped into you on a site you were back framing if I recall :?:
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