The least reliable, "reliable L series" ever

[jason]

Jim, the Run Beyond Hope has been postponed to July 10 so you can still make it!

[jim.nos]

Congrats on the "first start" even if it isn't.
The 240° - how are you measuring that? That's borderline damaging, if that's the actual temp.

I'll consider it the first re-start.

240 is according to the gauge on the dash. I'm not sure about the accuracy but a thermostat is a cheap and easy first step.

Jim, the Run Beyond Hope has been postponed to July 10 so you can still make it!

Awesome

[James]

Finished is better than perfect, finished is better than perfect, finished is better than perfect...

Its a very good mantra to have!

[jim.nos]

I feel bad. My car has sat in the garage for almost 3 months now without being thought about.

During the run beyond hope, the temperature/fluid loss problem was first discovered. Other driving in the summer has had the fluid loss problem increase. I think It's about time I addressed that.

There are no leaks in the rad or hoses. After driving for an hour with an empty water bottle zap strapped to the grille as a burp tank; I collected only a few drops. This is far from the approximate 1.5 litres per hour I'm losing. Even though there is no steam or visible water vapour coming from the tailpipe, and without a pressure tester so I can really stick my head around the engine bay with the motor off, I think a head gasket replacement is in order.

Is an L series head gasket replacement an easy or slightly more challenging thing to do? I'm contemplating moving my car back to work where there is a better equipped and more spacious shop than my garage at home.

[okayfine]

Relatively easy, all things considered. The key is to use and remember to remove the chain tensioner tool.

If you don't have any other information on HG replacment, there is this: http://dimequarterly.tierranet.com/arti ... asket.html

No pictures. Quite likely a few threads here as well.

[jason]

I just finished one in my driveway Jim, it's pretty easy, just a lot messy!

[jim.nos]

Turns out that there was more to the story than just a blown head gasket.

Not enough metal is remaining between the water jacket and cylinders.

Going to add a little meat to the head so more of the gasket can actually seal. Then off to get the head machined and have a valve grind and I should be back in business.

I tried my hardest to avoid disassembling the block and I seem to have avoided it.

[jim.nos]

Well, re-assembly is complete and went "well. "

I filled the coolant and went to fetch a funnel to add oil to find that water was POURING from the head onto the floor.

Outside of forgetting to torque the head bolts properly (which I did), what could I possibly have done wrong to have water pour from the gap between the head and the block? The last thing I really want to do at this stage is pull the dead off again to find everything contaminated with water and need to start over.

[James]

Did you torque head bolts in proper order - from middle to outside? (going from outside in can create proplems) I'm assuming that they checked for crack in the head. Was your gasket surface perfectly clean?
Its odd to have a leak after doing all that you have done. Its probably something simple - but to find it you may have to take head off again. The good news - it goes really fast the second time (I can attest)!

[datzenmike]

If leaking on the driver's side it could be the intake leaking from the coolant passages. Are the manifold bolts tight, gasket on properly?

You can still loosen all bolts and re-do the tightening sequence. The head should be torqued to about 20 ft. lbs. in this pattern

RAD
7-8
3-4
1-2
5-6
9-10

Now go back and re-torque in the same pattern to 40 ft. lbs. Lastly, re-torque to a final 60 ft. lbs.

As for the head and block surfaces, the general rule is.. you can't have them too clean or smooth. Bolt holes and bolt threads must be scrupulously clean so that an accurate clamping force can be achieved with a torque wrench. If there is debris in the holes the bolt can 'bottom out' without bearing down properly on the head itself. Wipe the bolt threads with an oily rag and put a drop of oil on the washer under the bolt head.

Be sure that both alignment dowels are in the block, and the head and gasket can position itself.

[jim.nos]

Today was supposed to an easy tinker time.
Today was supposed to be an easy carb tune, swap some jets and go for a hoon.

Remove the air cleaner to discover this rattling around inside the filter

Well this doesn't look good.

Remove the plugs to check compression

Well that doesn't look good either

Have a peek inside the engine to see what's up

Aaaaaaand that's a hole.

[bertvorgon]

OWEEEEE...something let go......

[jim.nos]

Well, re-assembly is complete and went "well. "

I filled the coolant and went to fetch a funnel to add oil to find that water was POURING from the head onto the floor.

Outside of forgetting to torque the head bolts properly (which I did), what could I possibly have done wrong to have water pour from the gap between the head and the block? The last thing I really want to do at this stage is pull the dead off again to find everything contaminated with water and need to start over.

To follow up my own post from a while ago, there were two studs protruding from the block which passed through the manifold with no apparent purpose; so I removed them.

Turns out that they plugged two holes that lead straight into the water jacket.

Stopped them up and we're all good as far as the coolant retention department goes.

[Baz]

Rear arms can be filled with 2 pack expanding foam.
Adds considerable strength & resistance to bending.

A client slightly bent an arm after rolling in a rally. He works for an engineering firm.
They sat the arm in a 10 ton drop hammer, mandrel thro the bearing mount & got stuck into it with a 16 lb sledge.
They gave up when the hammer stated bouncing.

[two_68_510s]

Rear arms can be filled with 2 pack expanding foam.
Adds considerable strength & resistance to bending.

A client slightly bent an arm after rolling in a rally. He works for an engineering firm.
They sat the arm in a 10 ton drop hammer, mandrel thro the bearing mount & got stuck into it with a 16 lb sledge.
They gave up when the hammer stated bouncing.

Excellent!! I love this kind of stuff!