'72 4 door, Tweety Bird

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okayfine
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Re: '72 4 door, Tweety Bird

Postby okayfine » 26 May 2010 12:15

I'm surprised the fronts are that stiff, but, yeah, 180F/120R in/lb rates are going to cause understeer.

Stock Roadster front springs cut to fit the rear would balance out 180in/lb front springs.
Because when you spend a silly amount of money on a silly, trivial thing that will help you not one jot, you are demonstrating that you have a soul and a heart and that you are the sort of person who has no time for Which? magazine. – Jeremy Clarkson

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speeder
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Re: '72 4 door, Tweety Bird

Postby speeder » 31 Aug 2010 11:06

The summer went by and I wrenched. To correct the understeer problem the suspension went from "stage 1" to "stage 2" if there is such a thing in our 510 world. The list of further mods includes TEP camber plates in the front. These are inexpensive and use stock spring hats, so clearance on the inside of the strut tower is an issue. I think it'd be tough to get much more than 1 degree of negative camber out of these plates, but I did get that and that was the goal because this car gets a lot of daily cruising use. It required banging the lip on the spring hat in a bit for added clearance. The rear crossmember came out and is now equipped with a Datsport ARC kit. It's a sweet kit and does what it's supposed to. It is a big project getting the new trailing arm mounts on. The shop that did it for me was kind enough to only charge me for 5 hours, but the guy that did the work said it took a fair bit longer than that. TEP poly rear crossmember bushings went in also. So did cut roadster springs. And a Momo and a fresh shift knob. The car now rides well and handles really well. It's neutral with oversteer or understeer depending on how you drive it. The difference is remarkable. Alignment is set per the Dean Sherman One Lap of America car: Front -1 degree camber, 0.04" toe, rear -0.04 camber, 0.02" toe.

TEP camber plate:
TEP camber plate.jpg


Datsport ARC:
Datsport ARC.jpg


Camber adjuster:
Camber adjuster.jpg
Last edited by speeder on 31 Aug 2010 12:06, edited 1 time in total.
'72 4 door 510, '68 2000 Roadster

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speeder
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Re: '72 4 door, Tweety Bird

Postby speeder » 31 Aug 2010 11:08

Toe adjuster:
Toe adjuster.jpg


Camber adjuster:
Datsport R camber adjuster.jpg


Toe adjuster:
Datsport R toe adjuster.jpg
'72 4 door 510, '68 2000 Roadster

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speeder
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Re: '72 4 door, Tweety Bird

Postby speeder » 31 Aug 2010 12:01

TEP poly rear crossmember bushings:
TEP RC poly mounts.jpg


Momo and a fresh dog leg shift knob:
Momo and new knob 2.jpg


From the right:
510 final ride height 7.jpg
'72 4 door 510, '68 2000 Roadster

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speeder
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Re: '72 4 door, Tweety Bird

Postby speeder » 31 Aug 2010 12:05

From the left:
DSC_0285.jpg


From the left:
DSC_0286.jpg
'72 4 door 510, '68 2000 Roadster

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okayfine
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Re: '72 4 door, Tweety Bird

Postby okayfine » 31 Aug 2010 12:28

Yeah! 8)
Because when you spend a silly amount of money on a silly, trivial thing that will help you not one jot, you are demonstrating that you have a soul and a heart and that you are the sort of person who has no time for Which? magazine. – Jeremy Clarkson

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Re: '72 4 door, Tweety Bird

Postby goichi1 » 31 Aug 2010 16:07

Nice work!! I installed the Datsport rear kit also, I guess it took me about a day from sandblasting the cross member to final painting, the hardest part was cutting off the old brackets, that took a few hours by itself. The welding was fairly easy as was the set-up of the brackets to weld. I could probably do it again in half the time, but it's always easier the second time!! I have a spare rear cross I may install another one on later.....I am sure you love the handling, I could really tell a difference right away!! keep the pics coming!!

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Re: '72 4 door, Tweety Bird

Postby Byron510 » 31 Aug 2010 23:07

goichi1 wrote: I guess it took me about a day from sandblasting the cross member to final painting, the hardest part was cutting off the old brackets, that took a few hours by itself.


I agree that the preparation is most of the work.
I installed Mandeep’s Datsport kit in about 2 hours, however he brought me the X member sandblasted and with the OEM brackets removed. I also have a bit of a cheater jig that I built for installing my own camber/toe adjustment brackets that mimics the LCA without actually having the complete LCA in the way on the bench. This speeds things up quite a bit – it’s shown here:

http://www3.telus.net/byron510/meston_m ... ts_003.htm

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=12993&p=136733

Typically I spend about 3 hours to install my brackets, plus blasting time. As they say, measure twice…
Byron
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because the opposite never works.

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speeder
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Re: '72 4 door, Tweety Bird

Postby speeder » 12 Oct 2010 09:26

So we ran the California Melee in September. In short, it was very much fun. Tweety Bird performed beautifully, until he blew up. Handling was sublime, with phenomenal bump sucking capability while still delivering a smooth ride, and a very forgiving nature that made running fast on rough, twisty, undulating, unknown roads tremendous fun. Tweety made it about 5/6 of the way, then crapped out and started billowing white smoke. Pics tell the tale here. Four of us piled into our other team car and completed the run together in that. It was a blast! The question now is, what power plant goes into Tweety to replace the toasted L16?
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speeder
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Re: '72 4 door, Tweety Bird

Postby speeder » 12 Oct 2010 09:32

More pics.
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shes dirty.jpg
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off in the distance.jpg
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Road Kill.jpg
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'72 4 door 510, '68 2000 Roadster

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speeder
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Re: '72 4 door, Tweety Bird

Postby speeder » 12 Oct 2010 09:34

More pics.
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Grasshoppers.jpg
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'72 4 door 510, '68 2000 Roadster

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okayfine
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Re: '72 4 door, Tweety Bird

Postby okayfine » 12 Oct 2010 09:35

speeder wrote:The question now is, what power plant goes into Tweety to replace the toasted L16?


Sheesh, no debate there, what? :lol:

Having gone L16, L20B, KA24DE, SR20DE in my 510 history, I'm inclined to go back to L-series for the next car. That, or EJ25, but that's another story.

There aren't going to be any modern engines that will really suit the appearance of Tweety. I sorta made it work in Whitebird's case with the SR by going to SU carbs and little touches like the cast-look manifold, using the stock radiator, and putting an Elephant oil cap.

That said, if you were going to go big, I'd look at going all the way with something like an SR20VE converted to RWD, or an Autech S15 SR20DE.

But that's if you like high-rpm N/A power. What do you like?
Because when you spend a silly amount of money on a silly, trivial thing that will help you not one jot, you are demonstrating that you have a soul and a heart and that you are the sort of person who has no time for Which? magazine. – Jeremy Clarkson

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speeder
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Re: '72 4 door, Tweety Bird

Postby speeder » 12 Oct 2010 09:42

I'm not sure what happened here. Maybe it was day to many hours of wide open throttle? I did have a fuel starvation problem intermittently that caused it to lean out at high rpms under heavy load. It would heat up pretty quickly when this happened, but it was pretty rare and I was carful to back off if it happened. Who knows. The bottom end was tired already and I now have an excuse to upgrade. I'll probably with some version of an L20B. Something durable and reliable, but with good power output. I'm very excited for a little more power. We were able to run with everything in the event in the twisties, but I was a little short on power sometimes on the open stretches and I was really wanting some more for passing.
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Last edited by speeder on 12 Oct 2010 10:37, edited 1 time in total.
'72 4 door 510, '68 2000 Roadster

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Re: '72 4 door, Tweety Bird

Postby McShagger510 » 12 Oct 2010 10:20

Man that run looks like a ton 'o fun but I wouldn't look forward to cleaning out all those 'hoppers!
Nothing ventured, nothing grained! - Benjamin Franklin

'72 2dr. 510 Turbo
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speeder
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Re: '72 4 door, Tweety Bird

Postby speeder » 12 Oct 2010 10:56

The hoppers were unreal! I've never seen anything like it in 20 years of road tripping all over the western USA. We didn't really notice them till we pulled over. They were caked three deep all over the radiator, having been blasted through the grill. Many were still wiggling hours and many drinks later in the evening. Needless to say, they made for great discussion after several lethal margarita's in the hotel parking lot.

As for the engine debate. Yes, it has been a big debate in my head. If I was going to go and modernize it, I'd probably do as you suggested, with the SR20ve. I drove a Sentra SE-R for 15 years. It had an SR20de from the factory and it was such a great motor, not to mention an incredible car.

But you're right, Okayfine, Tweety is sort of an old school ride. He doesn't really fit the theme of "restomod," and when I think of the car, I think more of a meaty L20 in there. In the research I've been doing, it also seems like the conversions are considerably more in depth and expensive than just "slapping a 2 liter in it" as we always used to say. I never had the cash back then for a nicely prepared L20, but now I do, so that'll probably be what happens. If anyone knows of a good L20 that's already built, running, with known specs and history and for sale, hit me up before I commission my own build, which will be very soon. The general goal will be 125rwhp, strong in the mid range, with bulletproof reliability for back country thrashing as well as daily driving.
'72 4 door 510, '68 2000 Roadster


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