Shawn’s ‘72 Driver

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Byron510
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Re: Shawn’s ‘72 Driver

Post by Byron510 » 15 Dec 2010 22:30

Spent another 8 hours blocking the car - just over half way done. Shawn is coming out tomorrow to give me a hand for the day, so I hope this part will be done by the end of the day. I forgot how fine the dust is from that K38 - it just hangs in the air, it's quite strange.
I have a few spots that I'll need to shoot some more high build back onto, I hope to do a light coat with reduced K38; it's already been blocked sp I should be able to just shoot a thin coat, and then scuff just before painting. I just want the base primer to all be the same colour so that I don't have any blotches showing though the paint afterwards. With Shawn’s help tomorrow, I may still be on schedule for complete paint on Friday...
No point in posting photos right now - it still looks pretty much the same.

Byron
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Re: Shawn’s ‘72 Driver

Post by 510wizard » 16 Dec 2010 06:03

Byron,
You might want to shot DP thinned as a sealer, than thinned K38. Plus it will seal any under lying body work. I think that if you shot color soon after that DP( as a sealer) that you don't have to scuff the sealer. Check the spec sheet.

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Re: Shawn’s ‘72 Driver

Post by Byron510 » 16 Dec 2010 07:08

510wizard wrote:Byron,
You might want to shoot DP thinned as a sealer, than thinned K38. Plus it will seal any under lying body work. I think that if you shot color soon after that DP( as a sealer) that you don't have to scuff the sealer. Check the spec sheet.
This was my original plan, but I was the guy selling the paint products that changed my mind, mostly because of the colour. The K38 is very light grey, where the DP is dark grey. The paint guy figured that getting the base all one colour was more important with this light green so that nothing shows through....Hmmmm, no I ponder.

Both products can be painted over within an hours time according tot he spec sheet, I'm thinking the DP will go on smoother, and your right it's got much better sealing properties and better adhesion to the bare metal.

Thanks for your input, I prefer the DP method and then go to paint. Have to see.

Byron
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Re: Shawn’s ‘72 Driver

Post by 510wizard » 16 Dec 2010 08:19

From my experience the sealer coat color can change the final coats hue. My current project, a 67 Toyota LC is getting painted a bright BMW red, I shot the red over both white sealer and also over grey primer, with the white the red was a lot brighter. You might to try shooting some of both colors of the sealer on a scrap panel, then follow with color to see if there is any final color difference, then go from there. i personally would get the color that you decide on in DP, I think that it is the best product for the job.

Monte

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Re: Shawn’s ‘72 Driver

Post by Byron510 » 16 Dec 2010 22:53

Well, we’re getter real close – tomorrow is the day for paint.

Shawn and I spent a full 12 hours on the car today, blocking out the last of the panels, and touching up the final spots. A few pin holes and rock chips to filled.

Monte, thanks for your help – I really do appreciate the input as paint and bodywork is NOT my game at all. I took the safe route on the paint. I did both DP 40 on the bare metal spots, and then another couple coats of K38 on the few spots that I sanded through. This way we’ll have an even base coat, hopefully avoiding any issues. It’s a solid colour, so it’s pretty forgiving.
The guy that has sold me the paint had a tip for me, and on the last coat I will mix in some clear to help it’s durability. I’ve not done this step before. But he said that this step will allow better polishing or buffing is the car needs it with no haloing around the polished spots.
I have no shortage of paint – I didn’t use nearly as much with the new gun when I did under the hood, trunk and door jambs. So I won’t be to worried about being short. I have a bit more masking left to do tomorrow, then I’ll wipe and tack off the car and away I’ll go!
I will lower the car down a bit as well. When I was priming, getting to the center of the roof was a stretch that actually cramped my arms.

Updates as they come….here are a couple shots of the touch ups from today.

Byron
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Re: Shawn’s ‘72 Driver

Post by Byron510 » 16 Dec 2010 22:59

I also sprayed DP 40 on the hood support bracket and gas tank door, then went on to spray K38 high build on the outside of the gas tank door. While I was waiting for this to dry, I was preppring the cowl vent, so I think I have it all together.
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Re: Shawn’s ‘72 Driver

Post by tycot1 » 17 Dec 2010 01:59

i would finish blocking the entire car and prime it again. there is no way to get everything right in one prime. i usually do 3-4 primes after the fill work. remember you are not only blocking the body straight but also reducing your sanding scratches in these stages. there just isnt enough material to go from 150 grit up to 400-500 grit in one prime. if you dont reduce your sanding scratches carefully there will be sinkage sooner than later.
http://bigtimemotors.ca 1972 datsun 510 220 hp ka "couped", 1971 510 westwood champ gt4 '81& "83, 1979 550 hp trans am, 1962 cadillac hrdtp, 2005 subaru sti, 1999 triumph daytona 955i.

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Re: Shawn’s ‘72 Driver

Post by 510wizard » 17 Dec 2010 06:13

Byron510 wrote: The guy that has sold me the paint had a tip for me, and on the last coat I will mix in some clear to help it’s durability. I’ve not done this step before. But he said that this step will allow better polishing or buffing is the car needs it with no haloing around the polished spots.

Byron
I call that mixture dishwater- cloudy clear, actually a little color mixed with the clear coat, gives more depth to the paint. Also adds some durability to the color coat. So you weren't thinking of shooting the entire car again with primer/ sealer? I am asking cause I see that you have the car masked off to fill/ primer your repair areas. I would do what Tycot1 recommends - remove that masking, prime & block the entire car again, shoot sealer,then paint the color. I know that probably at this point in time that you just want the thing done, but you will kick yourself latter when you see the sanding scratches showing thru. You are so close to being finished, just spend a little more time now and we can wipe that huge smile off your face latter!

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Re: Shawn’s ‘72 Driver

Post by Byron510 » 17 Dec 2010 21:19

Tyson and Monte,

Thank you both very much for your suggestions.
You both have a very good argument for doing this next step, but I’m afraid to say that I didn’t follow it for three reasons;
- Product no longer available
- Garage space is out of time (like this isn’t new for many of us! :D)
- Byron’s out of time (this I can’t help)

The K38 that we have been using was left over’s (as with a lot of the rest of the product) that I had from past projects. As usual, this project started with a small budget, and as with any good project, that budget soon grew to 4 times the original estimate. We called the body shop supply this morning, and no K38 left – only K36 and this maynot have worked for us as it needs to be top coated in two hours. The product lines have all been changing due to the water base stuff now on line, so stock on this older stuff is pretty much non-existant. Shawn has also been tapped out for a while; I’ve been funding the difference for now. Next is work – I’m back to work tomorrow, and until X-mass, afterwards I’m out of town again… this project needed to move because…the space we’ve been using for Shawn’s project is our fathers place, and we said we’d be done by November – we’re pretty much rolling up on January soon… like Cantalini; he needs his shop back.

We had been sanding the car down to 320 before the first coat of high build, and we blocked out to 400 afterwards. I touched up the few spots where I hit metal or needed to fill when using the long board. But we had to draw the line. I would have liked to continue with another coat of primer/sealer, and block again but the last reasons for not doing so – the extra work might me lost due to the environment – it’s a garage, with DUST, so we knew it wasn’t going to be really nice. So with the game plan set, we decided to go ahead a plan to paint the car as is….

Again guys, I do appreciate and thank you for your input. Your suggesting didn’t fall on def ears, however if circumstances were different…
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Re: Shawn’s ‘72 Driver

Post by Byron510 » 17 Dec 2010 21:42

Well, she’s all one colour, and damn it looks pretty good!
I put on a really light first coat, waited a good 45 minutes for that to bit in and then was going to lay down two more coats. As it turned out, I actually laid down three more coats. I have had a tendency in the past to paint really quite thin, and I didn’t want this to be the case this time. So the second and third coat went down quite wet, but it hung in very nicely. The body shop sales guy wanted me to do 4/1/1 of paint/reducer/hardener but I actually followed the product sheet that was 4/1/2. There was more than enough hardener. My second challenge was that no medium reducer was left in stock for the DCC line, so I ended up mixing the fast and reducer which I had with slow reducer which I bough – ending up with medium (I hope). I used DU5 hardener to round out the chemical concoction. On the last coat, I did a 50/50 paint/clear mix for the paint portion of that mix, seamed to work very well. By that time I had a pretty good idea of how much I needed mixed, and I laid down a nice wet top coat, really more than I dared. I’ll have to wait till the car is in better light, but I didn’t see a single sag (yaayyyy) but I’ll have to wait for the final inspection next time I’m out. So without further ado….
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Re: Shawn’s ‘72 Driver

Post by 510Freak » 17 Dec 2010 21:45

Looks Purdy Byron 8)

Love the look of a 510 all naked with a fresh shot :twisted: :mrgreen:
.

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Re: Shawn’s ‘72 Driver

Post by Byron510 » 17 Dec 2010 21:46

Then, unmasked...
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Re: Shawn’s ‘72 Driver

Post by Byron510 » 17 Dec 2010 22:04

So, once again lighting was a problem with the paint job. The upward facing panels were no problem, but with the plastic draped down, the lack of direct light on the side of the panels made judging the spray pattern and speed really quite difficult. I had to get myself in some pretty strange positions just to pick up some light in the spray pattern. It looks good now, but I'll wait until it's outside to pass final judgment. My father did hang some lights for us, as shown below. And I though these were going to work, but today while applying the paint, the set up proved to not be very optimum. But I can’t complain – I’ve sprayed cars in garages so dark that I had a flash light in one hand – now that’s hillbilly :D I don’t know what I’d do if I were ever able to use a real booth for a paint job. Some pics of the light set up below.

Dust was also an issue. I expected some, and there is some. Not excessive, but it’s there. I had some sort of fleck fall onto the truck surface and I caught it JUST before I painted over the thing. I was able to use a tack cloth and pick it out, and did a little flood on the area – I couldn’t see the blemish after the final coat. I did see a weird spot on the back side of the upper surface of the pass side front fender – I wonder if a drop of water fell off the air fitting on that spot. But that’s about it for my critique right now. Shawn is very happy with it. Now back to the fun part – assembly. I really do hate body work; I don’t mind the paint but with so many years between jobs, the learning curve sure has been spread out.

Byron
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The light over the bench was turned off for the photo, but it did help.
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Re: Shawn’s ‘72 Driver

Post by 510Freak » 17 Dec 2010 22:10

I have to ask Byron,
Why is the floor dry? is it because this is long after the spray?
you are working in a cross flow type of spray environment, the floor will create issues :wink:
.

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Re: Shawn’s ‘72 Driver

Post by Byron510 » 17 Dec 2010 22:21

510Freak wrote:I have to ask Byron,
Why is the floor dry? is it because this is long after the spray?
you are working in a cross flow type of spray environment, the floor will create issues :wink:
While I was painting, I had no fan or heater going. No fan because it causes more problems than it cures, and no heater because it's gas, and paint has lots of flammable solvents - you get where I'm going… Boom! :shock: . Kinda makes a mess of the car. I got the shop up to 25 degrees - Shawn and I was sweating in there just before the paint began. It's a 2X6 fully insulated building, so it kept the heat well, even though it was only 3 degrees outside.

The floor was not wet. This too has cause issues for me in the past. I agree that a wet floor traps the dust, but I think our dust source was the plastic walls and electricity.
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