A 510 30 years in planing.

[defdes]

It's hard to tell in the pics, is there now just a bit of a flare to the fender, and if not, how is this different from a good tight rolling of the inner lip?

[RonM]

how is this different from a good tight rolling of the inner lip?

It's not.

I guess this is what you would call "rolling the lip" rather than cutting it. The only addition to this is the outer edge of the wheel well, where it bumps in, just above the seam, has been pounded out to the fender wall. (Sorry about the low quality of the pictures. I used my cell phone, which has no flash.) It was important to me to maintain the stock look and shape of the fender. That being said, I wouldn't be surprised if there is a bit of flare now, all be it unintentional. Today I will go back and grind the lip off the semi trailing arm and weld it back up. (a recommendation from S15DET). This should yield an additional 3/8".

[Refresh]

its gonna look nice....

[RonM]

seeking more advice:

This car has had the rear slotted, but even at what I would consider a moderate ride hight, there is still a slight inward camber on the rear wheels. This already, and I have yet to get the car lowered to where I want it. I understand the benefits of inward camber for hard cornering, but I don't plan on doing slalom down the highway. The biggest drawback for me is having less rubber on the ground during straight line acceleration. As is the case with lowering a semi trailing arm, one would expect this, but my question is do I have to accept it?

This may seem desperate, but does anyone have a little tricks up their sleeve to lower a dime and still keep a neutral camber. The way I see it, wheel camber is a product of where the diff rests relative to the chases hight. If so, I have but three options, putting a four link Jaguar style rear end in (way out of my fiscal reality), be more aggressive with the slotting (if that's even an option), or accept it for what it is and move on (way easier said than done). I will be installing Wolf Racing CV joints and axles to mitigate the angle stress.

Any thought, tips, or life lessons?

[defdes]

How much toe in are you talking about?

[RonM]

How much toe in are you talking about?

Hi defdes
If you look at the images I posted of the car on the first page of this thread you can see what I'm talking about. It's not much at this point, but I want to go another 1.5 to 2 inches lower from there. Look at the image of the yellow car and you'll see the hight I'm going for.

[Byron510]

There are three off the shelf improvements for adjustable rear camber and toe, I make one of them - Datsport and the Penultimate being the other two.

There is a link here to my set up:

http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=6946

I have sold many of these to realm members. It's a do it yourself set up, and there is a link in that thread giving you a step by step. The brackets are $280, and shipping is about $30 to $35 - 5 day UPS anywhere in North America.

Shoot me a PM if you need more info.

Byron

[RonM]

Byron, you are the M.A.N! Here's to the power of the collective construct of knowledge. I am totally humbled by the talent gathered here

[RonM]

Spent Thursday and Friday working on the car. It's startling how much faster the day goes by when I'm doing something I actually what to do. I spent half a day massaging the suspension and I think I found a ride hight, and wheel camber I can live with. It turned out I had more than a half inch travel left on the slotting of the inboard mount. The rest of the time was spent detail sanding door jams, welding up the trim holes under the door, stripping paint from grill parts, masking, removing doors and fenders. I played with the idea of completely detailing, and smoothing the engine compartment, but realized I have limited time and I need to choose my battles wisely. Besides, once I get the SR stuffed in there with all the peripherals, no one will see it anyway. One thing I'm sure of, it wont make it go faster.

I have a few questions.

I've begun my search for an SR20DET. Along with it I am installing a T37 turbo, high performance injectors, fuel system, 3" exhaust, fat intercooler, tunable ECU, and hope to get 350hp. Fortunately, because of the proximity to the Oakland shipyards there are a number of companies selling SRs near by. I seem to be able to find anything I want, because the market is so slow right now. That being said, just because I can find an s15 blacktop doesn't mean that's the best choice for what I'm doing. I've read some stuff saying that it would be smarter to get an s13, or 14 and build around it. What is the difference between a 13,14,or 15 and a Redtop vs a Blacktop in terms of the internals?

I've heard that the 2004, WRX STi, R180 diffs are limited slip, and have an electronic locking solenoid. Could I potentially put a button on the shifting nob that would lock the diff on command? I understand there would likely need to be some serious mods done to the half shafts, but would the benefit be worth the effort?

Thanks, and

[S15DET]

I've always heard that the high port SR motors have more power potential because of the shape of the ports in the head. The S13 is the high port (plentum low and runners coming in from the top) and the S14/15 have the low port heads (plentum on top with the runners turning under to come in lower.) However, there are lots of other things to consider. The new motors will be, well, newer, that's worth something. I've had an S15 and an S13, so I can see it either way. The S14 and 15 also have the VVT variable intake timing solenoid that you'll have to deal with if you choose to go with a programmable or stand-alone ECU.
I just installed a S15 6-speed on my red-top S13 motor for the better highway top gear, but that's another topic.

Several of us here are using the STi R180 read diff, I am, but I've not heard of a electronically locking rear differential. They have a electronic center diff, but I don't think they have an electronic rear. If they do, that could be interesting indeed. Share what you find.

[RonM]

Well the body is going to paint early next week (so if there's any last arguments against screaming yellow speak now or... ) I found a motor and have put a hold on it. It's an s13 that appears to be in excellent condition, and compression readings of 170+ across the board. I've pasted picts below. I'm doing some research on the company JDM Racing Motors out of Canada. The actual motor is in a warehouse in Virginia. Has anyone heard of this outfit? Finally it's beginning to feel like I'm making head way. The excitement level is climbing once again.

[RonM]

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[RonM]

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[m33pm33p]

Damn, must be a super low km's motor as that thing is sqeeky cleAN!

[Camano510]

Yeah, what he ^^^ said! Super clean.