Really Ratty Rusty Ruby RIP

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indy510
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Re: Really Ratty Rusty Ruby RIP

Postby indy510 » 12 Oct 2012 01:27

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Okay, "now" this is starting to get fun .... :lol:

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indy510
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Re: Really Ratty Rusty Ruby RIP

Postby indy510 » 12 Oct 2012 01:31

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This seems like a good place for the motor .. except the oil pan's on the ground, the hood won't shut, and the "frame" can go 2" lower

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Nice and far away from the firewall... :cool:

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indy510
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Re: Really Ratty Rusty Ruby RIP

Postby indy510 » 12 Oct 2012 01:35

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Time to take everything apart ....

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GREG510
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Re: Really Ratty Rusty Ruby RIP

Postby GREG510 » 12 Oct 2012 01:50

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.. except the oil pan's on the ground


Dry Sump :lol:

indy510
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Re: Really Ratty Rusty Ruby RIP

Postby indy510 » 12 Oct 2012 01:54

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But the transmission's on the ground too .... :evil:


proflex wrote:Hood scoop :wink: ............................


NEVAR!!! .... :lol: ..... I'd rather hack the firewall till the roof caves in .... :roll:

and BTW,, the firewall/windshield wiper area is VERY structural... right up there with the frame rails and rocker panels

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indy510
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Re: Really Ratty Rusty Ruby RIP

Postby indy510 » 12 Oct 2012 01:59

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indy510
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Re: Really Ratty Rusty Ruby RIP

Postby indy510 » 12 Oct 2012 02:06

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Byron510
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Re: Really Ratty Rusty Ruby RIP

Postby Byron510 » 12 Oct 2012 12:43

indy510 wrote:

I have a plan .... :twisted: .. . raise the car?




No!!! :shock:

Can't be done... how about a twin sidedraft set up on a rotary - I've never seen a more worthy low profile engine - including the oil pan... unless you go boxer on us :lol:

There is will, let's find a way!

http://atkinsrotary.com/store/Performance-Intakes/


I know that someone made a twin sidedraft that went beside the motor and strut tower, but I can't find a photo. the reason I know one was available is that when I worked at an un-named speed shop in my youth, they installed one in an Gen I RX7 - it was a pretty cool set up.


Byron
Love people and use things,
because the opposite never works.

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okayfine
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Re: Really Ratty Rusty Ruby RIP

Postby okayfine » 12 Oct 2012 14:11

Dry-sump and one of Dave's cowl-induction hoods. Don't make it hard on yourself.
Because when you spend a silly amount of money on a silly, trivial thing that will help you not one jot, you are demonstrating that you have a soul and a heart and that you are the sort of person who has no time for Which? magazine. – Jeremy Clarkson

510rob
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Re: Really Ratty Rusty Ruby RIP

Postby 510rob » 12 Oct 2012 16:13

okayfine wrote:Dry-sump and one of Dave's cowl-induction hoods. Don't make it hard on yourself.


...because dry sump is easy (and cheap?)

:shock:

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okayfine
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Re: Really Ratty Rusty Ruby RIP

Postby okayfine » 13 Oct 2012 09:17

I'm not sure anything Indy's done has been easy. My comment was more in line with Indy's ultimate goal of lowness. Everything else is secondary (or doesn't even matter). With that in mind, what's some mo' money when the solution is available?
Because when you spend a silly amount of money on a silly, trivial thing that will help you not one jot, you are demonstrating that you have a soul and a heart and that you are the sort of person who has no time for Which? magazine. – Jeremy Clarkson

indy510
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Re: Really Ratty Rusty Ruby RIP

Postby indy510 » 13 Oct 2012 10:07

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Easy? .. no ..... Done right/correctly/qualityly?? ... no ... :lol: .... .. .. cheap? .. asside from welding wire/gas/metal ... yes


I started this project with a "goal" of raising the rear suspension/floor only 2 inches, and somehow get one inch more clearance for the front ... I ended up raising the rear floor 4" and front frame rails 3" ... Niether of these numbers are "crazy" new concepts for the 510 world. Many 510 race cars have the front LCA's raised 2.5",, and by raising my rear floor 4", I will still have some negative camber at a "normal" 510 race car ride height.

IMO a "normal" 510 race car is as low as I used to drive this car, with the front X-member 2.5" off the ground and the rear rocker panel seams 3.5" off the ground... I was dragging the exaust, oil pan, frame rails, front and rear floor pans, rockers, and the rear x-member mounting studs .... But when I raised the car one inch fr/rr it would stop all dragging, and make the car actually fun to drive.


okayfine wrote:My comment was more in line with Indy's ultimate goal of lowness. Everything else is secondary (or doesn't even matter). With that in mind, what's some mo' money when the solution is available?


I know it seems like all I care about is "lowness" . :lol: . sometimes I do .. but having a motor sticking through the hood is where I draw the line

I don't see how a dry sump would help this?? .... . the bellhousing is already on the ground:

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okayfine
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Re: Really Ratty Rusty Ruby RIP

Postby okayfine » 13 Oct 2012 11:49

Fair enough. But is the rear of the trans where it wants to be relative to the diff?
Because when you spend a silly amount of money on a silly, trivial thing that will help you not one jot, you are demonstrating that you have a soul and a heart and that you are the sort of person who has no time for Which? magazine. – Jeremy Clarkson

510rob
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Re: Really Ratty Rusty Ruby RIP

Postby 510rob » 13 Oct 2012 13:54

If you install a dry-sump system, you can almost sit the engine on the ground

the next problem is the bellhousing size, so then you need to get a small diameter flywheel, then cut down the lower extensions of the bellhousing

The stock Datto ring gear is typically 120 teeth, whereas the typical small diameter QMI & Tilton flywheels are 94 teeth, giving you another inch or two of ground clearance to drop the car/engine a bit lower...

...but that stuff is quite expensive!

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Dave Patten
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Re: Really Ratty Rusty Ruby RIP

Postby Dave Patten » 14 Oct 2012 13:24

I wrote an article for the Dime Quarterly about dry sumping my L20B powered racecar. It was quite the experiance getting it right.

The article is available on line (Thank you Julian) DQ Volume 8, Issue 4
Link: https://docs.google.com/folder/d/0ByCvxnHNk90SYzc4N2E1MWEtMzg0MC00YTE4LTkxZGQtM2RjODA5ODA1YjU1/edit?pli=1#docId=0ByCvxnHNk90SMjExMjAzMWMtNmUyNi00YWRlLWE4ZDItMmI3MGM4M2RiMDY1
Dave Patten
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