forgot to add these
To be clear, the sensor will be mounted in the valve cover, flush with the outside surface, as represented by the black tower it sits in.
'69 510 - Lysholm Twin-Screw Project
- VelvetHammer
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Re: '69 510 - Lysholm Twin-Screw Project
Last edited by VelvetHammer on 28 Jan 2019 00:53, edited 1 time in total.
- VelvetHammer
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Re: '69 510 - Lysholm Twin-Screw Project
As I began to play around with the cam sensor wheel and sensor, it became apparent that the spray bar was getting caught on the cam sprocket when trying to install the valve cover. So I had to shorten the spray bar a bit. Made sure the screw didn't block that last hole on the end. Fit's well now.
Before
After
Before
After
- VelvetHammer
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Re: '69 510 - Lysholm Twin-Screw Project
I currently have a Motec CDL3 display with track kit, IO/ logging but have decided to sell that (if anyone's interested...) and go with a C125 instead.
I'll design a mount so it can be quick-released to keep the stock look of the interior, but have something fun for track days or canyon runs.
The screen is 5" so it should feel pretty good sitting above the steering column. The C127 (7" version) eclipsed the entire dash and just felt a bit too big.
I'll design a mount so it can be quick-released to keep the stock look of the interior, but have something fun for track days or canyon runs.
The screen is 5" so it should feel pretty good sitting above the steering column. The C127 (7" version) eclipsed the entire dash and just felt a bit too big.
- VelvetHammer
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Re: '69 510 - Lysholm Twin-Screw Project
I had to take off my crank pulley to get to my old crank sensor bracket. Rebello set this up way back when, and he used two of the bolts for the front cover to mount the he bracket. Unfortunately the bolt is very long and once the the trigger wheel is mounted on there you can't get the bolt out.
I finally made a " tool" to hold the engine while romping on the crank pulley bolt.
It ain't pretty but it works. (despite the deceptive photo, the tab fully engages the teeth with installed)
The previous sensor was very small so I had to modify the bracket to accept a Honeywell sensor.
Edit: I'm no longer using the old pinch clamp in the bracket. The hole for the honeywell sensor ate into the pinch clamp and now the bolt threads down into the side of the sensor. It should be secure enough as it is.
I finally made a " tool" to hold the engine while romping on the crank pulley bolt.
It ain't pretty but it works. (despite the deceptive photo, the tab fully engages the teeth with installed)
The previous sensor was very small so I had to modify the bracket to accept a Honeywell sensor.
Edit: I'm no longer using the old pinch clamp in the bracket. The hole for the honeywell sensor ate into the pinch clamp and now the bolt threads down into the side of the sensor. It should be secure enough as it is.
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Last edited by VelvetHammer on 28 Jan 2019 00:57, edited 1 time in total.
- VelvetHammer
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Re: '69 510 - Lysholm Twin-Screw Project
I'm using a few wraps of electrical tape around the the sensor to keep the vibrations down on the housing. That, and the sensor is just undersized to the closest drill bit, so unless I get the darn thing machined, this is how it's going to be. At some point I'll CAD a new bracket, 3D print a prototype and then have a fancy aluminum one CNC'd.
Since I'll be mounting the alternator on this side of the engine, I may end up making an all-in-one alternator bracket/ sensor mount.
Since I'll be mounting the alternator on this side of the engine, I may end up making an all-in-one alternator bracket/ sensor mount.
Re: '69 510 - Lysholm Twin-Screw Project
For the cam-mounted indexing sensor, consider inverting the relationship of the sensor wheel; put a single aperture slot into a disc type arrangement rather than one large cantilevered protrusion. Why? Because the total overall imbalance will be lower. Minor point, but that's just my way of seeing things.
Also, nice job.
Also, nice job.
- VelvetHammer
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Re: '69 510 - Lysholm Twin-Screw Project
The idea of a missing tooth is interesting. I had planned on removing material, or add a counter weight to avoid an imbalance, but my V1 design is definitely overkill.
I was on the Fusion360 forums and a guy was helping me with some of the finer points of the program. He whipped up a simple sheet metal version that was still a single tooth, but about a 1/10 the weight of my clunky design. I'll likely go with something like that which will keep the overall rotational mass down, and make sure it's a balanced.
I was on the Fusion360 forums and a guy was helping me with some of the finer points of the program. He whipped up a simple sheet metal version that was still a single tooth, but about a 1/10 the weight of my clunky design. I'll likely go with something like that which will keep the overall rotational mass down, and make sure it's a balanced.