'69 510 - Lysholm Twin-Screw Project

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510wizard
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Re: '69 510 - Lysholm Twin-Screw Project

Postby 510wizard » 02 Mar 2012 08:23

VelvetHammer wrote:
510wizard wrote:
510rob wrote:I have one of these --> http://www.dewalt.com/tools/metalworkin ... dw887.aspx

I like it better than my air die grinder, which sucks by comparison.

abrasive cartridge rolls are great to have for a die grinder!

http://www.3m.com/product/information/A ... Rolls.html

http://www.eastwood.com/engine-porting-kit.html



Prefect tools for the job at hand. Be sure to protect the machined surfaces with tape, such as duck tape. Do this in case of a slip with the grinder. Knock out the plugs at the ends out the main oil gallery and tread to use socket head pipe plugs. I also deburr all the sharp edges, so you won't cut yourself in the next step. After you get done with the deburring, get a bucket of hot water and mix some Tide with the water, then scrub the S.... out of the block. Use some bore brushes in all the oil galleries and all threaded holes.


Ok, it looks like I now need to buy some bore brushes. Any idea what size taps I'll need? I have a rather massive tap and die kit (Craftsman), but it manages to be missing the ones I usually need at the time.


I use gun cleaning brushes. If my memory is correct, I think 3/8" NPT, you can also get these at Enco, if there not in your kit.

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510wizard
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Re: '69 510 - Lysholm Twin-Screw Project

Postby 510wizard » 02 Mar 2012 08:37

VelvetHammer wrote:It's occurred to me I'm probably short on the correct tools to complete this job as guided above.
Here's the punch list:


Tools I need to buy for this engine build adventure:

Metal scribe (?)
Marking blue (Is that what it's called?)
Die grinder (http://www.harborfreight.com/electric-d ... ce=linking)
Router speed control? (http://www.harborfreight.com/router-spe ... ce=linking)
Abrasive cartridges (http://www.eastwood.com/engine-porting-kit.html)
Carbide rotary burr bits (http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-8-Piece-Dou ... pd_cp_hi_1)
Engine brush kit (http://www.eastwood.com/engine-brush-kit-set-of-4.html)
Piston ring compressor (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SME-90A3400/)
Piston ring grinder (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-906795/)
Assymbly lube (https://deezperformance.com/synergyn-assembly-lube.html)
NPT Taps (?)

Face shield (?)
Number punch set for keeping track of main caps (?)



Tools I have for this engine build adventure:

Dial bore gauge (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-900041/)
Magnetic base (http://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-G9849-Mag ... B0000DD0VA)
Dial Indicator stand (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRO-66798/)
0-6" Micrometer Set (http://www.amazon.com/Unknown-0-6-Micro ... B0014HA45E)
Depth Micrometer Set (http://www.amazon.com/Flexbar-Depth-Mic ... B001CTG1H4)
Digital Calipers (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-900001/)
Cylinder Head CC Kit (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-911581/)


Engine parts to buy:

New freeze plug set
Engine gasket kit
Timing chain kit
ARP head bolt kit
ARP stud kit (necessary?)
ARP rod bolts
Total Seal Piston Rings
Main and Rod Bearings


Work that needs to be done:

Disassembly of block
Deburr casting flash from block and crank
Cut water passage holes to match head and gasket
Drill dipstick hole/ plug old one
Wash block (should I hot tank?)
Replace oil plugs with NTP plugs (reduce depth of front plug?)
Paint block
Replace freeze plugs
Hone bores and measure
Hone main caps and measure
Hone rod ends (?), fit/ install ARP rob bolts and measure
Inspect pistons/ skirts for collapse, clean and measure
Clean up crank, balance (?), polish journals (?), and measure
Assembly

My cheap "quick-fix" engine seems to have just gotten more expensive...

Any other tools, parts or work that I am missing??

Thanks for all the generous help and advice, I'm pretty nervous/ excited to do this a lot of this myself.
(And by "myself" I mean with your help)

Cory

Man, that a list allright, some input;

You can get the srcibe and the layout fluid (Dykem) from Enco. Same with the rotary burrs.
Get the block tanked before your deburring and other block work. Do the Tide bath right before the assy. Replace the rod bolts before the resizeing ( don't want to distort the rod bores replacing the bolts).

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VelvetHammer
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Re: '69 510 - Lysholm Twin-Screw Project

Postby VelvetHammer » 04 Mar 2012 00:28

two_68_510s wrote:Hey man, I am around he same stage engine wise, slightly different set of tasks, but it is nice to have a ready made check list! 8) :D Thanks. (I would tank the block.)


My pleasure, I'm the king of list making. Now getting them done is another thing entirely...

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VelvetHammer
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Re: '69 510 - Lysholm Twin-Screw Project

Postby VelvetHammer » 04 Mar 2012 00:32

rnorrish wrote:
VelvetHammer wrote:It's occurred to me I'm probably short on the correct tools to complete this job as guided above.
Here's the punch list:


Tools I need to buy for this engine build adventure:
Number punch set for keeping track of main bearing caps


All you need is a center punch for things like this. Just think 'dice'. One dot, two dots, etc.
Same trick works for remembering which way something goes back together i.e. rod caps that can go on either way. Mark the rod and cap, and on the same side.


Excellent trick, thanks. Center punch is now on my list of things-to-buy.

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VelvetHammer
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Re: '69 510 - Lysholm Twin-Screw Project

Postby VelvetHammer » 04 Mar 2012 00:37

510wizard wrote:Man, that a list allright, some input;

You can get the srcibe and the layout fluid (Dykem) from Enco. Same with the rotary burrs.
Get the block tanked before your deburring and other block work. Do the Tide bath right before the assy. Replace the rod bolts before the resizeing ( don't want to distort the rod bores replacing the bolts).


Sounds like Enco is the one stop shop. Good note on replacing the rod bolts first. I adjusted my master list to reflect this.

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VelvetHammer
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Re: '69 510 - Lysholm Twin-Screw Project

Postby VelvetHammer » 05 Mar 2012 00:01

Well I swapped margaritas at the beach and (2) 78° F beach days for spending a total of 30 hours in my garage this weekend.

It always starts the same. I open the garage and am greeted by my current non-running car, that will hopefully running in a few months.

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And then I look to the right and a see another non-running car that will hopefully be running before I'm dead.

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And then I look down and see the mountain of stuff I need to sell or scrap.

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Somewhere in here is a 2.2L short block I need to take apart

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First thing I did was ship my intake runners to Ermish so he could port map them to the head he's building. The red marker shows places where I need to grind down flashing or casting that has made stud/ nut clearances a pain. The runner extensions are 40mm, they lead into 40mm throttle bodies, which lead into a 45mm intake runners, which reduce to 40mm where it meets the head. I'm not sure if the 40mm to 45mm jump creates a ton of turbulence, but I'm guessing it's not ideal.

I've been told that the throttle body size effectively determines where your peak torque is going to be (smaller=lower, bigger=higher). My previous EFI LZ engine gave me 138 ft lbs to the rear wheels at 4,500rpm. With the 4:11 it would pull stumps from 3,500- 5,500 rpm and it was done by about 6,000. The original design criteria was a quick stoplight-to-stoplight car, and on great occasion it served me well :) In looking back, a set of 45mm's would have been optimal, it think 50's are too big for the street.

Does anyone know if I can get away with using these 40's on my SC engine? I'll have to research this one...

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I'll try to smooth these out a bit when I get my die grinder. Looks like they were given a quick pass the first time around.

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Taking everything apart was fairly straight forward. I hope to remember how it all goes back together.

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I used my dremel on this job and it spit aluminum everywhere. I need a grinding chamber of some kind. I was wearing a pretty decent dust mask but still...

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Question: Are these injectors too high up in the throttle body? They seem short.

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I then turned my attention towards the 2.2 block. It's an 06W.

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This thread has come full circle: viewtopic.php?f=30&t=14219

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I cleaned up the deck (it's flat/ no warpage) and a few pistons.

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Can I use any of these parts in the LZ conversion?

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I was very surprised to see the check-ball had blown out. Can these get stuck in the block? Am I screwed? I have a remote oil set up from my race car I can run for the time being if that will solve anything.

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This was also a bad thing to find (coolant mixed with oil), including a random washer sitting in the bottom of the pan.

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More on this is tomorrow, but I also pulled the driveshaft, transmission, steering box, alternator, starter, and marked up the header for O2 and EGT bung placement.

All in all a productive weekend.

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510wizard
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Re: '69 510 - Lysholm Twin-Screw Project

Postby 510wizard » 05 Mar 2012 07:08

That check ball assy. is just pressed into the block. It's about 1" long. When you get your rotary tools, smooth out that oil filter area and radius that oil galley orffice on the bottom. I also chamfer all those sharp edges around the filter boss.

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James
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Re: '69 510 - Lysholm Twin-Screw Project

Postby James » 05 Mar 2012 07:54

See if thats a washer from a head bolt. When I first started working on my 510, I dropped one down the front cover. I took the time to take it out however......
Finished is better than perfect......

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VelvetHammer
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Re: '69 510 - Lysholm Twin-Screw Project

Postby VelvetHammer » 05 Mar 2012 23:06

510wizard wrote:That check ball assy. is just pressed into the block. It's about 1" long. When you get your rotary tools, smooth out that oil filter area and radius that oil galley orffice on the bottom. I also chamfer all those sharp edges around the filter boss.


I tried to pry out the check ball assembly with a screwdriver but no dice. Yet another job for the grinder?

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VelvetHammer
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Re: '69 510 - Lysholm Twin-Screw Project

Postby VelvetHammer » 05 Mar 2012 23:07

James wrote:See if thats a washer from a head bolt. When I first started working on my 510, I dropped one down the front cover. I took the time to take it out however......


I only bought the short block, but yes I bet you're right about the washer.

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Re: '69 510 - Lysholm Twin-Screw Project

Postby VelvetHammer » 06 Mar 2012 00:06

When I started to strip the block down I found that two of the main caps were only finger tight.
Here are the upper and lower main bearings. The lower bearings are worn much more heavily than the uppers?

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Most bearing surfaces show wear in the center of the bearing (top and bottom), the sides (where the main rod end halves meet) don't show much wear at all. Rod end is possibly out of round?

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A blown head gasket, would explain coolant/ oil everywhere, no?

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Slight piston scuff on these two pistons, the others are clean.

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Factory balancing?

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Once I got everything apart, I took a few hours to learn how to use my micrometers and bore gauge. Thank god for YouTube.

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It turns out I didn't need the .10" spacer. It also turns out that the actual measurement of this was NOT 3.45".
It mic'd out to be 3.4662"


So lesson #1 for me was verify verify verify.

I measured at (3) different (arbitrary) depths and at (3) different angles, overkill?
(I also measured each depth and angle 3-4 times (rocking bore gauge back and forth) and wrote down the average measurement)

Here's where I netted out:

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Last edited by VelvetHammer on 06 Mar 2012 07:12, edited 1 time in total.

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defdes
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Re: '69 510 - Lysholm Twin-Screw Project

Postby defdes » 06 Mar 2012 04:45

Those check ball sleeves are a PIA. I think I hand held a hack saw blade and carefully scored two places and then split it out. If you are going to tap it 3/8 NPT then you can have at it at cut it all of the way through.

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VelvetHammer
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Re: '69 510 - Lysholm Twin-Screw Project

Postby VelvetHammer » 06 Mar 2012 23:43

defdes wrote:Those check ball sleeves are a PIA. I think I hand held a hack saw blade and carefully scored two places and then split it out. If you are going to tap it 3/8 NPT then you can have at it at cut it all of the way through.


I almost forgot about your check-ball saga, did you ever get the ball out of the engine block?

hacksaw blade. check.

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VelvetHammer
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Re: '69 510 - Lysholm Twin-Screw Project

Postby VelvetHammer » 12 Mar 2012 23:33

I went on a Harbor Fright shopping spree this weekend. And now i'm in parts buying mode.

For those interested, I just found a website which sells 555 Ball Joints (arguably the best?) at a really great price: https://www.autopartsway.com/PartDetail ... all_Joint/

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VelvetHammer
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Re: '69 510 - Lysholm Twin-Screw Project

Postby VelvetHammer » 09 Jul 2012 23:37

Surprisingly I've actually gotten a bit of work of done on engine lately. I'm hoping to post soon when I have more time. Stay tuned.
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