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Re: '69 510 - Lysholm Twin-Screw Project

Posted: 14 Jun 2017 16:03
by two_68_510s
THAT is a very cool idea! And well executed!

Re: '69 510 - Lysholm Twin-Screw Project

Posted: 14 Jun 2017 16:51
by 510rob
I guess you'll have a Lysholm sleeper-charger on your motor. :P

Re: '69 510 - Lysholm Twin-Screw Project

Posted: 09 Jul 2017 18:42
by VelvetHammer
two_68_510s wrote:THAT is a very cool idea! And well executed!
Thanks!

The guys on the Motec forum gave me this advice which I figured was worth sharing:
From a heat point of view you wont have any issues mounting it like that, Don't bother with the fan it won't make any useful difference, unless your have extremely high ambient temperatures (ie more than 70-80 deg C).

You shouldn't mount any vehicle electronics with the connectors facing upwards. Condensation or and any water can run down the wiring and then pool on the top of the connector/case. It will eventually work its way into the device with heat cycling. You should mount them with the connectors facing down to reduce the chance of this happening.

It is always preferable to have some form of damping/rubber mounting as part of you mounting solution to reduce the vibration seen by the electronic components.
So there's that...

Re: '69 510 - Lysholm Twin-Screw Project

Posted: 09 Jul 2017 18:43
by VelvetHammer
510rob wrote:I guess you'll have a Lysholm sleeper-charger on your motor. :P
Hahaha I see what you did there :-)

Re: '69 510 - Lysholm Twin-Screw Project

Posted: 26 Aug 2017 19:18
by VelvetHammer
Well I got some parts in and put some wrench time in on the car a few weeks ago.

I finally pulled the trigger and mounted the coils and fuel filter.
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The firewall is filling up fast so I'm not sure where I'm going to eventually put the remote oil mount. I might be able to put it on the shock tower but I have to keep in mind the future supercharger placement with will eat up all the space on that side.
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Based on my previous post that showed some questionable looking front wheel bearings I decided to replace all of them along with the races. When drifting out the races I got sloppy and gouged the surfaces in a few spots. On closer inspection it looks like my dad may have done the same in years past. Like father, like so I suppose. I took some 1,000 grit paper, lightly sanded them smooth again, then flooded it with brake cleaner to get the grit out.
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Here's the bearing grease I'm using.
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Here are the bearing sets with part numbers if anyone need them
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I couldn't remember the direction of installation for this seal so I installed it as in the picture. If anyone has a differing opinion I'm open to it.
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Finally bought some tires and got them mounted.
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I also bled the brakes and clutch with my new Motive power bleeder kit. I'm pretty amazed at the difference in pedal feel. Despite meticulously bench bleeding the master cylinder the old fashioned way, I found tons of bubbles came out of it when I did the same with the power bleeder. The clutch and brake pedals are rock solid now, which is nice.

I also slotted the motor mounts a touch so I could rotate the engine and get my header away from the steering box. It only had about 1/32" clearance, which had been driving me nuts.

I'm still waiting on getting my ECU/ PDM mount CNC'd so I can start the wiring.

But primary importance is figuring out how I'm going to handle the valve cover and block breather tubes.

Re: '69 510 - Lysholm Twin-Screw Project

Posted: 26 Aug 2017 20:46
by VelvetHammer
On the topic of "engine block and valve cover venting to a catch can", I was evaluating my existing setup and am baffled at a choice I made along the way.
My engine block vent tube currently has a -10 AN fitting welded on the end, which I'm just now noticing that the ID only 1/2", where as the OEM tube itself is 3/4". SO I managed to insert a restriction in there. Based on this chart I should really have at least a -12 AN fitting.
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So there's that.

Since my engine compartment space is getting limited I think I'm going to go with two separate catch cans, one for the valve cover (which I'll mount where the OEM fusebox used to be) and second one for the engine block, mounted either on the driver side of the block itself, or the driver side frame rail. I'm curious about the pressures the containers will receive so I'll probably weld some bungs on there for a temporary pressure sensor mount

I went back to the Realm archives and found 10 or so articles on the topic I'll review to help understand proper catch can design and sizing. I already found a good tip buried in there regarding adding a spray bar. Looks like I should block off the cam's OEM oiling passage so I'm not over-oiling the upper half.

Re: '69 510 - Lysholm Twin-Screw Project

Posted: 27 Aug 2017 04:04
by broke
Surprising to see the NZefi coil pack on the other side of the world! Engine bay looks great.

Re: '69 510 - Lysholm Twin-Screw Project

Posted: 27 Aug 2017 13:40
by VelvetHammer
broke wrote:Surprising to see the NZefi coil pack on the other side of the world! Engine bay looks great.
Yeah it's a nice bracket they make, took a bit to googling to find it!

The firewall and shock tower have a lot of holes in them from various configurations over the years. Once I get this new EFI system sorted out eventually I'll weld everything thing up and re-shoot the paint.

Re: '69 510 - Lysholm Twin-Screw Project

Posted: 17 Sep 2017 21:46
by clean71
very clean 510 and love the color :D

Re: '69 510 - Lysholm Twin-Screw Project

Posted: 18 Sep 2017 05:34
by Three B's Racing
VelvetHammer wrote:
I couldn't remember the direction of installation for this seal so I installed it as in the picture. If anyone has a differing opinion I'm open to it.
IMG_1701.jpg
Saw no one answered this question so here it is. If you installed exactly like the picture shows, it's backwards.

Re: '69 510 - Lysholm Twin-Screw Project

Posted: 18 Sep 2017 18:01
by VelvetHammer
Three B's Racing wrote:
VelvetHammer wrote:
I couldn't remember the direction of installation for this seal so I installed it as in the picture. If anyone has a differing opinion I'm open to it.
IMG_1701.jpg
Saw no one answered this question so here it is. If you installed exactly like the picture shows, it's backwards.
Ha! Well, it's in there backwards. Seemed to hold up just fine time last time, but will correct on the next inspection. Thanks!