Noobie's 510 project

View and post your 510 project(s)
User avatar
Doraemon
Supporter
Posts: 56
Joined: 27 Dec 2015 09:05
Location: The Netherlands

Re: Noobie's 510 project

Postby Doraemon » 18 Sep 2016 02:58

I changed my filler neck with a Stainless pipe. And don't have the breather pipe. Yes the petrol gun will stops a lot.. But you can solve this to take out the gun a bit.

User avatar
DADZSUN
Supporter
Posts: 324
Joined: 08 Aug 2011 18:35
Location: Ottawa, ON

Re: Noobie's 510 project

Postby DADZSUN » 18 Sep 2016 17:04

Byron510 wrote:I have a question about your filler neck mod.
The original neck has the vent out the top of the first elbow - of course this vent is nessecary for filling.
In you mod'd system, the vent line goes out the back, it almost appears to be clocked pointed down. Does this effect the filling action? Can it be filled right up without boiling out the cap end of the filler at the gas station?

This is a mod many of us will be doing soon as the OEM rubber parts become harder to find in good shape.

Byron


Hey Byron, you're correct my vent line is about 3-4 o'clock when facing the gas cap.

Thankfully, I've had zero issues w/o overflow. I figure that's for 2 reasons:
    1) The vent line is still several inches above the tank inlet so there's still room for the vent line to function as designed and
    2) the inside of the tube at the neck has a funneled shield with a trap door (I'm sure you're familar with it) which I think prevents too much gas from splashing back up & around the nozzle before the auto-shutoff is triggered.

I still have some minimal issues but it's not design related. When I POR'd the neck I painted the innerlip where the gas cap screws in. This has prevented a perfect seal w/o some deliberate tightening. This will eventual be sanded away. I also still have faint odour of gas in the trunk but it's more of a very light 'processed' smell which I figure comes from the charcoal canister.

Hope that helps.
'72 Datsun 510 - KA24E/R1 carbs/EDIS 4 Megajolt
'76 Datsun 280z

User avatar
DADZSUN
Supporter
Posts: 324
Joined: 08 Aug 2011 18:35
Location: Ottawa, ON

Despite 5 years of ownership, my newbie title remains...

Postby DADZSUN » 17 Oct 2016 16:04

DADZSUN wrote:...Besides that, the car is running well.


Seems like I jinxed myself back in early August and my goal of hammering out 7500km this season (10K total on the KA) is now in serious jepardy. My 510 has had more idle time than I would have preferred the past couple of months.

First it was the KA24e's tensioner and after a few weeks of downtime that was resolved. Next the rear drivetrain developed quite a bit of noise/vibration. In the past few weeks I've gone through quite a bit of parts swapping to identify the source. I started earlier this summer with rear bearing swap, twice on the right and once on the left (all SKF). That didn't resolve the issue so I then targeted the U joints in the driveshast and 1/2 shafts. It turns out the right half shaft U joint is a little too sticky and the left shaft missing the grease nipple and having play. I've ordered replacement U joints and they should be ready end of Oct.

My experience has shown me that I could wait the 2-3 weeks for the fix only to discover that wasn't the whole issue and the car is down once again. So I decided to swap with spare parts to confirm it was just the 1/2 shafts and not the diff (which has a suspect pinion bearing). Andrew was kind enough to offer replacement parts including a R160 open diff. I jacked up the car to install the 1/2 shafts and for a 'quick' diff swap only to discover this, nice...

DiffBolts.jpg
DiffBolts.jpg (102.54 KiB) Viewed 1006 times


When I worked on the rear subframe this past winter I managed to installed the diff bolts from the top down, not bottom up - classic newbie!!! So my 'quick' diff change meant re-supporing the jack points onto the unibody rather than the subframe bolts, and then dropping the whole subframe low enough to clear the bolts being pulled up & out.

Needless to say I got this done and the replacement diff & 1/2 axles didn't resolve the issue - but the noise has changed! I'm beginning to think the swapped parts (diff) being a 45y/o part as well might be an issue as well. Rather than chase my tail and second-guess the quality of aged replacement parts, I've decided to hold until my 1/2 shafts and CLSD are fixed. Hopefully this will be done in time for a few weeks of driving before the snow/salt comes.

A quick question, I've only got 2 shims for the rear diff which I've used on the two rear bolts and noticed there is a gap on the front two bolts. Should I have 2 more shims for the front, if so where can I get them? Also, are the shims placed on the bottom or top of the diff?
'72 Datsun 510 - KA24E/R1 carbs/EDIS 4 Megajolt
'76 Datsun 280z

User avatar
okayfine
Supporter
Posts: 14125
Joined: 12 Nov 2007 23:02
Location: Newbury Park, CA

Re: Noobie's 510 project

Postby okayfine » 17 Oct 2016 17:18

Four shims in total, one for each bolt through the diff. Above/below depends on how low you're running, but factory placement should be below the diff. Been a while for me, though.
Because when you spend a silly amount of money on a silly, trivial thing that will help you not one jot, you are demonstrating that you have a soul and a heart and that you are the sort of person who has no time for Which? magazine. – Jeremy Clarkson

User avatar
andrew.lori
Supporter
Posts: 571
Joined: 27 Sep 2008 12:03
Location: Ottawa Canada

Re: Noobie's 510 project

Postby andrew.lori » 17 Oct 2016 17:50

That's one Purdy exhaust hole LOL
1966 Sunbeam Tiger MK1A
1970 Datsun 510 CASC Road Racer ( to be restored )
1972 Datsun 510 SR Monster Sold it
1977 Datsun 200SX
1973 Toyota Celica
1972 Triumph GT6 SCCA Vintage Race Car / Money Pit
1972 Mazda 808 ... 39k original Miles

User avatar
DADZSUN
Supporter
Posts: 324
Joined: 08 Aug 2011 18:35
Location: Ottawa, ON

Empty garage...

Postby DADZSUN » 02 Nov 2016 06:19

EmptyGarage.jpg
EmptyGarage.jpg (107.37 KiB) Viewed 937 times

This past August marks 5 awesome years with my 510. It's been absolutely 100% what I had hoped for. I've learned a lot about the car and myself over that time, but one of the main reasons I purchased it was to be a part of my sons' memories of their youth.

The car has gone through a fairly large change from the day it first came home. My oldest son Riley witnessed every step.
510Slots.jpg
510Slots.jpg (94.58 KiB) Viewed 937 times


Over the years he's seen every part of the car and the logic behind the changes we made.
Helper1.jpg
Helper1.jpg (114.74 KiB) Viewed 937 times


We've spent quite a bit of time together working on it (not easy to do with a teenager!).
Helper2.jpg
Helper2.jpg (141.2 KiB) Viewed 937 times


He practiced driving standard on it - taking whoever was home in order to satisfy his G1 requirements. Sometimes this included a very hesitant wife. :lol:
G1Practice.jpg
G1Practice.jpg (137.86 KiB) Viewed 937 times


He learned to push a car and hone his skills.
Solo2Practice.jpg
Solo2Practice.jpg (98.51 KiB) Viewed 937 times


.. and finally yesterday he completed his G2 and within minutes of getting home took off for a solo cruise.
Helper4.jpg
Helper4.jpg (174.82 KiB) Viewed 937 times


This morning there was a slight tear in my eye as our 510 took it's first trip to High School. Apparently his car buddies have a long-awaited 'reserved' spot with the other classics that are driven.
GoingToSchool.jpg
GoingToSchool.jpg (126.16 KiB) Viewed 937 times


It's been a great 5 years with the 510 and Riley, and am looking forward to repeating it with my younger son Connor who's shown quite an interest in mechanics as well.
Last edited by DADZSUN on 02 Nov 2016 06:42, edited 2 times in total.
'72 Datsun 510 - KA24E/R1 carbs/EDIS 4 Megajolt
'76 Datsun 280z

User avatar
DADZSUN
Supporter
Posts: 324
Joined: 08 Aug 2011 18:35
Location: Ottawa, ON

Re: Noobie's 510 project

Postby DADZSUN » 02 Nov 2016 06:39

okayfine wrote:Four shims in total, one for each bolt through the diff. Above/below depends on how low you're running, but factory placement should be below the diff. Been a while for me, though.


Thanks. Makes sense really. I threw a couple of washers in the front.
'72 Datsun 510 - KA24E/R1 carbs/EDIS 4 Megajolt
'76 Datsun 280z

User avatar
Byron510
Moderator
Posts: 11678
Joined: 01 Jul 2003 23:06
Location: Maple Ridge, BC

Re: Empty garage...

Postby Byron510 » 02 Nov 2016 07:22

DADZSUN wrote:
This morning there was a slight tear in my eye as our 510 took it's first trip to High School. Apparently his car buddies have a long-awaited 'reserved' spot with the other classics that are driven.
GoingToSchool.jpg


It's been a great 5 years with the 510 and Riley, and am looking forward to repeating it with my younger son Connor who's shown quite an interest in mechanics as well.


That is so great to see. I hope that my kids also have the same inclination.

My daughter would take the Bronze out in a second if given the chance.
My son, not so much. i was excited when he said he wanted the 280ZXT I drug home earlier this year, but the other night he told me he wants to build a 510 wagon!....

Great story. Good on ya.

Byron
Love people and use things,
because the opposite never works.

User avatar
DADZSUN
Supporter
Posts: 324
Joined: 08 Aug 2011 18:35
Location: Ottawa, ON

Chasing my Tail...

Postby DADZSUN » 14 Nov 2016 07:31

I'll be honest, that posting of 'Empty Garage' encompassed a LOT of frustration to have the car ready and drivable before winter set in. Lately it feels like I’m working on the same old issues – déjà vu….

These repeated issues along with a change in scope with how I use my 510 has made me reconsider my setup. First, I need to deal with the outstanding issues:

Drivetrain
    Problem – Grinding & occasional knocking/vibration somewhere from the rear
    Setup at the issue – New SKF wheel bearings (3 months, ~3000km), unknown condition half shafts, 2 y/o shortened driveshaft, R160 LSD checked and given the ok last summer
    Process to resolve – Swapped ½ shafts, diff, transmission, rechecked LSD and driveshaft. Re-swapped right rear wheel bearings (understandably they were ok).
    Solution – My ‘new’ left rear inner SKF wheel bearing was dead. Not sure why, either the nut was under-torqued or the axle stub is bent (slight stiction when rotating with & without the nut torqued in place). Will try and source a new axle stub.

    DrivetrainNoise.jpg
    DrivetrainNoise.jpg (99.3 KiB) Viewed 817 times

    PoochedSKF.jpg
    PoochedSKF.jpg (42.72 KiB) Viewed 817 times

Alternator
    Problem – Snapped tension bolt (x2), pivot bolt missing (WTF?!?!)
    Setup at the issue - Late August a broken tensioner bolt was replaced with the strongest grade a local fastener shop stocked. Pivot bolt was there at the time because it was flexing the alternator housing causing the internals to jam which I suspect caused the tension bolt to snap. I shimmed between the alt housing and bracket to prevent pivot bolt from harming the alternator.
    Process to resolve – Ongoing. Replaced the tension bolt (again), will source a new M10 x1.5 100mm bolt and lock nut.
    Solution – Not sure…. Pivot bolt was old and vibration/use caused it to fail which then cause the tension bolt to fail? Will likely source a different tension setup - something like Futofab's 'Alternator Adjustment Strut'.
    Scary - I drove 30+km with the alternator ‘re-tensioned’ but unknowingly w/o the pivot bolt in place LOL.

    BrokenAltBolts_1.jpg
    BrokenAltBolts_1.jpg (61.38 KiB) Viewed 817 times

    BrokenAltBolts_2.jpg
    BrokenAltBolts_2.jpg (117.37 KiB) Viewed 817 times

Oil Leak
    Problem – Consistent oil leak – suspecting from the oil pump region (see pic above). Maybe a bottle cap on the floor each time I stop? Engine, underside of tranny and even the exhaust coated in oil
    Setup at issue – Replaced the oil pump gasket 3-4 times. Tried cork, RTV, and several types of gaskets. PCV valve was replaced this summer.
    Process to resolve – Establish the exact location of leak. I also suspect the PCV but the housing that bolts to the block, not the valve itself.
    Bonus – Rust proofing the chassis is not likely required for another year or two.
'72 Datsun 510 - KA24E/R1 carbs/EDIS 4 Megajolt
'76 Datsun 280z

User avatar
okayfine
Supporter
Posts: 14125
Joined: 12 Nov 2007 23:02
Location: Newbury Park, CA

Re: Noobie's 510 project

Postby okayfine » 14 Nov 2016 20:20

Huh, I never had a problem with the alt bolt on a KA and two SRs. Broke a few on L-series before upgrading that to 10mm from 8mm, but shouldn't be your problem here. Interesting.

Oil pumps are PITAes. Should only need a paper gasket, no goo. But easy to strip out a bolt hole in the timing cover. BTDT.

...offering no solutions, but commiseration aplenty!
Because when you spend a silly amount of money on a silly, trivial thing that will help you not one jot, you are demonstrating that you have a soul and a heart and that you are the sort of person who has no time for Which? magazine. – Jeremy Clarkson

User avatar
510wizard
Supporter
Posts: 1012
Joined: 12 Sep 2005 09:50
Location: Reno, Nevada

Re: Noobie's 510 project

Postby 510wizard » 15 Nov 2016 07:13

You can get a dye for the oil and then use a black lite to see where the oil is coming from. Of coarse you have to clean the bottom of the car first. :o

Three B's Racing
Supporter
Posts: 1037
Joined: 03 Mar 2009 11:58
Location: New Hampshire

Re: Chasing my Tail...

Postby Three B's Racing » 16 Nov 2016 05:29

DADZSUN wrote:I'll be honest, that posting of 'Empty Garage' encompassed a LOT of frustration to have the car ready and drivable before winter set in. Lately it feels like I’m working on the same old issues – déjà vu….

These repeated issues along with a change in scope with how I use my 510 has made me reconsider my setup. First, I need to deal with the outstanding issues:

Drivetrain
    Problem – Grinding & occasional knocking/vibration somewhere from the rear
    Setup at the issue – New SKF wheel bearings (3 months, ~3000km), unknown condition half shafts, 2 y/o shortened driveshaft, R160 LSD checked and given the ok last summer
    Process to resolve – Swapped ½ shafts, diff, transmission, rechecked LSD and driveshaft. Re-swapped right rear wheel bearings (understandably they were ok).
    Solution – My ‘new’ left rear inner SKF wheel bearing was dead. Not sure why, either the nut was under-torqued or the axle stub is bent (slight stiction when rotating with & without the nut torqued in place). Will try and source a new axle stub.


On the rear swing arms stamped on the outer housing between the bearings is a letter. That letter should be the same on the inner spacer sleeve that sits between the bearings. If they are not the same, that's an issue as they must match. Did you torque the axle nut with an impact or just breaker bar it tight? Because that torque spec is very important and must be torqued to spec not "PFT" Pretty F'Kn Tight :lol:
"Lastnight the wife said oh boy when your dead you can't take nothing with you but your soul oh "Think"
- John Lennon

User avatar
DADZSUN
Supporter
Posts: 324
Joined: 08 Aug 2011 18:35
Location: Ottawa, ON

Re: Noobie's 510 project

Postby DADZSUN » 17 Nov 2016 18:02

510wizard wrote:You can get a dye for the oil and then use a black lite to see where the oil is coming from. Of coarse you have to clean the bottom of the car first. :o


I forgot about that - nice tip. Thanks!
'72 Datsun 510 - KA24E/R1 carbs/EDIS 4 Megajolt
'76 Datsun 280z

User avatar
DADZSUN
Supporter
Posts: 324
Joined: 08 Aug 2011 18:35
Location: Ottawa, ON

Re: Chasing my Tail...

Postby DADZSUN » 17 Nov 2016 18:10

Three B's Racing wrote: On the rear swing arms stamped on the outer housing between the bearings is a letter. That letter should be the same on the inner spacer sleeve that sits between the bearings. If they are not the same, that's an issue as they must match....


Hmmm, do you mean that the spacer between the bearings has a specific orientation? One side must always be facing out?

Three B's Racing wrote:... Did you torque the axle nut with an impact or just breaker bar it tight? Because that torque spec is very important and must be torqued to spec not "PFT" Pretty F'Kn Tight :lol:


The first bearings were tightened with an impact gun then backed off a hair to reduce the stiction. Subsequently, a wise local Datsun guru recommended I giver the whole nine yards, so on the current set I ran my Princess Auto Power Fist corded gun for a bit... ;-) Frankly I've got a proper torque wrench and should have gotten off my ass to confirm the specs and torqued properly.
'72 Datsun 510 - KA24E/R1 carbs/EDIS 4 Megajolt
'76 Datsun 280z

User avatar
DADZSUN
Supporter
Posts: 324
Joined: 08 Aug 2011 18:35
Location: Ottawa, ON

2017 plans

Postby DADZSUN » 17 Nov 2016 19:06

My appologies, this will be a bit of a rambling post. I like to use this medium as a sort of an online diary and a resource for future reference.

So the scope of usage on my 510 has changed over the years. The original plan was to have a fun 1, maybe 2, times a week 'play car' outing. I never realised how much I'd enjoy driving the car and how much of a relaxant it is for me. Going forward I want to start DD'ing it from April-November. So with this increased demand to drive, I've come to realise the car is a little inadequate to handle broader temperature range, specifically the R1 carbs. The carbs are pretty damn good when the temp is 20C or higher. However, when the temp is below 10C the carbs become a real bear to start/re-start. It gets old fast to have to plug in the block heater 30-60min before every outing.

PluggedIn.jpg
PluggedIn.jpg (223.96 KiB) Viewed 697 times


I've also become more lenient towards 'modernism'. The original goal was low weight and 'low tech'. I eventually started to cheat and moved to electronic dizzy and then EDIS/Megajolt after that. I think it's now time to address fueling, I think I'm ready for EFI. ...but not just that, I'm actually starting to think about a little bit of boost. :o 10lbs/hp has always been a fun and driveable ratio for me in the past and the current setup is ~50hp short of that. Most importantly, KAE-T just sounds so cool!

EFI.jpg
EFI.jpg (92.27 KiB) Viewed 697 times


Before diving in too deep, I had to make sure that that my current platform is worth further investment. The engine only has 9000km on it, but it was rebuilt by me... SR20DEs can be had for under $1100Cdn WITH tranny. To finish an EFI conversion I have to acquire a few parts that could total up to $500 and that doesn't include a 'new' used tranny...

The compression tests results (engine warmed up, carbs and plugs pulled) were stronger than expected (205-212psi).
Comp1_207psi.jpg
Comp1_207psi.jpg (161.33 KiB) Viewed 697 times
Comp2_205psi.jpg
Comp2_205psi.jpg (122.85 KiB) Viewed 697 times
Comp3_207psi.jpg
Comp3_207psi.jpg (129.53 KiB) Viewed 697 times
Comp4_212psi.jpg
Comp4_212psi.jpg (125.34 KiB) Viewed 697 times


I'm close to having all the bits for EFI but a few outstandings parts are proving difficult to affordably source:
    Solenoid to activate the Swirl Control Valve SCV (aka butterflies), to help with start starts, idling, and low speed torque.
    Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) for the KA24e 240sx intake manifold. IACV also helps with cold starts/idle
    D21 crank puley with the timing marks - shaved the current one to fit the EDIS timing ring
    D21/240sx oil pump/distributor drive shaft - I modified my original one to fit under the EDIS coils.
    D21 distributor.
    SOHC automatic ECU. Apparently the 5-speed ECU relies on speed sensor input off the tranny and the one I have is busted and only serving as a plug in the tranny. I've been using Speedhut GPS speedo instead.

To address some of the items on that list, I picked up this D21 KA24e block for $100Cdn - that's only about $25USD for you southern dime fans. :-)

OBD2_D21_KA24e.jpg
OBD2_D21_KA24e.jpg (168.66 KiB) Viewed 697 times


Unfortunately the engine appears to be pooched and it's a ODB2 model ('96) so the distributor won't work as it has an integrated coil. The pulley, oil pump driveshaft, header heat shield, and SCV solenoid appear to be of use. It's also handy to study the OEM routing of vacuum lines, PCV etc... I also plan to use the block for mocking up the 240sx EFI setup along with wiring. The block will also serve as a good platform for welding up a DIY Mazworx exhaust manifold for down the road.

SideFeed.jpg
SideFeed.jpg (165.19 KiB) Viewed 697 times

Anybody notice the sidefeed injectors in the previous pic? I thought all KA24e were only top feed but apparently Nissan felt the need for side feed on this model - ODB2/emission driven?
'72 Datsun 510 - KA24E/R1 carbs/EDIS 4 Megajolt
'76 Datsun 280z


Return to “Project Builds”



Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 3 guests