Noobie's 510 project

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DADZSUN
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Re: Noobie's 510 project

Post by DADZSUN » 26 Jan 2016 08:38

Do you recommend any specific model? When I researched line-locs I didn't see many positive reviews as being a reliable short-medium term parking brake.
'72 Datsun 510 - Orange w/Watanabes & KA24E
'76 Datsun 280z - Current rebuild project

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510wizard
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Re: Noobie's 510 project

Post by 510wizard » 26 Jan 2016 10:46

Look for AFCO manual lever lock, used in tow trucks and in heavy equipment. Had one on a 10K fork lift, would hold for weeks or more. I think that they are made in Canada.

http://www.abcodistributors.ca

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DADZSUN
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Exhaust & rear cross member

Post by DADZSUN » 03 Feb 2016 19:57

This winter's project has been progressing nicely. No doubt assisted with the mild winter we've been having.

A few weeks ago I proceeded to remove the exhaust for a new 2.25" stainless one. I was surprised to see this bracket which held the exhaust in place right before passing through the rear cross member. Interesting way of doing things.
Exhaust_Previous.jpg
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Old versus new. Not a huge difference in diameter but the bends are much nicer and the install will be much cleaner.
Exhaust_Out.jpg
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My v-band clamps came in. I was quite impressed with the quality.

I liked the recess on the outside of the 'coupling' which fit my 2.25" pipe perfectly.
VBand_4.jpg
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I also liked that the two 'couplings' had a male/female lip to ensure good alignment before the clamp is even applied.
VBand_3.jpg
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Next, the cross member was removed to enlarge the exhaust hole. While I was at it I figured I'd install Byron's rear adjustment brackets.

First the OEM inner brackets required removal. It took a couple of (fun) hours with an angle grinder, but it was a relatively easy process.
BracketRemoval_1.jpg
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Ready for a torch followed by a bit of welding...
CrossMemberMod_3.jpg
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Thankfully I have a good Datsun friend nearby to help with the welding. Andrew even kept his mock control arm to help with the final alignment of Byron's brackets.
CrossMemberMod_2.jpg
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Be sure to add shim stock (metallic 'spacers' for us noobies out there) between the 'U' bracket and the outer ears before welding. Byron recommends going up to 2mm.
CrossMemberMod.jpg
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'72 Datsun 510 - Orange w/Watanabes & KA24E
'76 Datsun 280z - Current rebuild project

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okayfine
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Re: Noobie's 510 project

Post by okayfine » 04 Feb 2016 05:57

Looks good, and handy to have people around that have BTDT - the mock control arm is nice.
Because when you spend a silly amount of money on a silly, trivial thing that will help you not one jot, you are demonstrating that you have a soul and a heart and that you are the sort of person who has no time for Which? magazine. – Jeremy Clarkson

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DADZSUN
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Diff placement

Post by DADZSUN » 21 Feb 2016 19:29

Not much to update as I get through a promised bedroom renovation. It's a good time to read & acquire missing parts.

The cross member is welded and POR'd, ready for installation.
RearCrossmember.jpg
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My R160 clutch LSD diff has been opened up and I was told all looked reasonable. The main front bearing was slightly rough so it was replaced, as were the seals. It was supposedly a little out of alignment as well. A quick question, with the offset mounting holes on the moustache bar, do I try to set/shim the diff as high as possible to offset the suspension drop?
MoustacheBarAlignment.jpg
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The final step before I start on the exhaust is to redo the passenger engine mount as the engine is canted a little too much towards the driver's side. See the bottom of the oil pan in reference to cross member
EngineAlignmentPassengerMount.jpg
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'72 Datsun 510 - Orange w/Watanabes & KA24E
'76 Datsun 280z - Current rebuild project

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okayfine
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Re: Noobie's 510 project

Post by okayfine » 22 Feb 2016 05:57

Engine mount isn't perfect, but nothing's going to happen because of the slight angle you pointed out. NBD. You won't really be able to just put a 1/2" shim in there, the bolts will not be aligned properly. You're also going to want a bit of angle in the pan due to where the pan bung is.

On the diff, you could flip the mustache bar, but you'll need to keep your driveshaft u-joints happy as well (something like angle of the trans needs to match the angle of the diff, and the driveshaft can only have <3° drop - need to verify).
Because when you spend a silly amount of money on a silly, trivial thing that will help you not one jot, you are demonstrating that you have a soul and a heart and that you are the sort of person who has no time for Which? magazine. – Jeremy Clarkson

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Track Junky
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Re: Noobie's 510 project

Post by Track Junky » 22 Feb 2016 07:31

Yes okayfine is right, 3 degrees max of misalignment but "U" joint angles should always be at least 1 degree to avoid wearing out the yoke bearings.

Scott.

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DADZSUN
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Reinforced rear trailing arms

Post by DADZSUN » 25 Feb 2016 20:14

While the control arms are out of the car I'm thinking reinforcing them for peace of mind if I ever choose to throw some R-compounds on for AutoX.

Any suggestions how/where to weld a plate? I'm thinking of just a simple 1/8" square plate on the top.
ReinforcedTrailingAmr.jpg
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'72 Datsun 510 - Orange w/Watanabes & KA24E
'76 Datsun 280z - Current rebuild project

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okayfine
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Re: Noobie's 510 project

Post by okayfine » 26 Feb 2016 05:55

Reinforce if you end up going coilover. Didn't use to prove necessary, but the arms are getting older, and some have interior rust damage.

As for what to do, there are a few variations. Most I've seen have been a plate that encompasses the whole hump over the axle and back to the shock/CO stud.
Because when you spend a silly amount of money on a silly, trivial thing that will help you not one jot, you are demonstrating that you have a soul and a heart and that you are the sort of person who has no time for Which? magazine. – Jeremy Clarkson

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bertvorgon
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Re: Noobie's 510 project

Post by bertvorgon » 26 Feb 2016 06:42

I made up a plate that covered the entire top of the control arm, 1/8", with the cut out for the spring.

As OK said, if anything now for the fact that these arms are getting older, plus who knows what is happening inside after years of rain.

Even though mine were done at almost new, we saw what happened when even the lightest curb hit happened, and as I was slaloming in every major parking lot on the lower part of B.C. we just thought it was a good, safe, cheap idea to do, and did it on all the Specialty 510's.
"Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty" - Peter Egan

Keith Law
1973 2Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
1968 Vintage 3HP Mini Bike
1971 Vintage 13' BOLER trailer

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andrew.lori
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Re: Noobie's 510 project

Post by andrew.lori » 28 Feb 2016 19:05

Sounds like you may be coming back for some more welding fun :) Things are looking good
1966 Sunbeam Tiger MK1A
1970 Datsun 510 CASC Road Racer Sold)
1972 Datsun 510 SR Monster Sold it
1977 Datsun 200SX Sold :(
1973 Toyota Celica
1972 Triumph GT6 SCCA Vintage Race Car / Money Pit

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DADZSUN
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Stainless exhaust update/questions

Post by DADZSUN » 11 Mar 2016 06:22

duke wrote:Don't worry about mixing 409 and 304. They will weld just fine.
OK, so the rear cross member is in and I'm ready to start the exhaust. I've been looking for stainless wire for my gased-MIG setup and found some - but then the vendor told me NOT to use a Carbon/Argon mix... it must only be Argon.

Switching bottles etc is pretty expensive, can I not get away with using Co/Ar mix along with a .030 stainless wire for the exhaust? I understand the welds could rust (easy to paint), I just want to make sure the join can handle the vibration/twisting from the engine.

One more quick FYI, I couldn't find any reasonably priced Datsun 510 muffler hangers so I decided to MacGuyver it at Canadian Tire. I found a part (#17206B Insulator) for $6.50 each which seems to be workable once I cut out the inner nubs.
MufflerHanger.jpg
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'72 Datsun 510 - Orange w/Watanabes & KA24E
'76 Datsun 280z - Current rebuild project

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funwithmonkeys
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Re: Noobie's 510 project

Post by funwithmonkeys » 11 Mar 2016 07:03

bertvorgon wrote:I made up a plate that covered the entire top of the control arm, 1/8", with the cut out for the spring.

As OK said, if anything now for the fact that these arms are getting older, plus who knows what is happening inside after years of rain.

Even though mine were done at almost new, we saw what happened when even the lightest curb hit happened, and as I was slaloming in every major parking lot on the lower part of B.C. we just thought it was a good, safe, cheap idea to do, and did it on all the Specialty 510's.
Specialty is upgrading my brakes at the moment and Andy noticed a bit of rust on the bottom and side of one of my control arms. He was able to easily poke a screwdriver into the arm creating a hole big enough to put my thumb into. I would hate to see what would happen if that had gone un-noticed.
If no one from the future comes back to stop you from doing it then how bad of a decision can it really be?

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Re: Noobie's 510 project

Post by bertvorgon » 11 Mar 2016 07:15

I'm glad you would have been BEHIND me then.......scary stuff for sure.
"Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty" - Peter Egan

Keith Law
1973 2Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
1968 Vintage 3HP Mini Bike
1971 Vintage 13' BOLER trailer

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funwithmonkeys
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Re: Noobie's 510 project

Post by funwithmonkeys » 11 Mar 2016 08:10

Indeed. Looking at the grip levels our tires produce through the fast corners it is quite scarry. Both of my rear arms are getting drain holes in the bottom and powder coated. I don't want to be the one taking out a line of cars because my wheel tore off.
If no one from the future comes back to stop you from doing it then how bad of a decision can it really be?

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