The white sloth project

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tcflacars
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Location: Fla
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Re: The white sloth & the silver fox

Postby tcflacars » 08 Dec 2016 11:37

Nice Job

Colbino
Posts: 512
Joined: 19 Sep 2007 12:58
Location: Bellevue, WA

Re: The white sloth & the silver fox

Postby Colbino » 09 Dec 2016 23:23

tcflacars wrote:Nice Job


Much appreciated.

clean71
Posts: 202
Joined: 15 Mar 2007 20:31
Location: AUBURN WA

Re: The white sloth & the silver fox

Postby clean71 » 26 Dec 2016 22:49

Great build , just read all pages and can say we think the same way on building a car . I work in bellevue and would love to see your car in person and if you ever need any parts , body work , etc let me know as I can help out .

BJ
1971 PL510 4DOOR AUTO
1969 PL510 WAGON 4SPD
1969 PL510 2DR 4SPD

Colbino
Posts: 512
Joined: 19 Sep 2007 12:58
Location: Bellevue, WA

Re: The white sloth & the silver fox

Postby Colbino » 28 Dec 2016 18:33

clean71 wrote:Great build , just read all pages and can say we think the same way on building a car . I work in bellevue and would love to see your car in person and if you ever need any parts , body work , etc let me know as I can help out .

BJ



Thanks for compliment, BJ! I'd love to get this thing done (well, done enough) and take it out to some local gatherings and meet some fellow Datsun enthusiasts. You work at a body shop? I do/will need some color matching done and always have an eye out for parts!

Colbino
Posts: 512
Joined: 19 Sep 2007 12:58
Location: Bellevue, WA

Re: The white sloth & the silver fox

Postby Colbino » 16 Jan 2017 16:20

Made the tough decision to let the Silver Fox (the 280z) go. If interested, you can find it available here: SOLD! :cry:
Last edited by Colbino on 12 Feb 2017 00:30, edited 1 time in total.

greenthumb
Posts: 153
Joined: 19 May 2013 20:57
Location: Langley, BC

Re: The white sloth & the silver fox

Postby greenthumb » 17 Jan 2017 22:26

Good luck with the sale. Glad you're keeping your sweet 510. It's one of my faves!

clean71
Posts: 202
Joined: 15 Mar 2007 20:31
Location: AUBURN WA

Re: The white sloth & the silver fox

Postby clean71 » 18 Jan 2017 21:11

sounds good Colbino just let me know anytime …i think i dm'd you my number
1971 PL510 4DOOR AUTO
1969 PL510 WAGON 4SPD
1969 PL510 2DR 4SPD

Colbino
Posts: 512
Joined: 19 Sep 2007 12:58
Location: Bellevue, WA

Re: The white sloth & the silver fox

Postby Colbino » 18 Jan 2017 21:41

greenthumb wrote:Good luck with the sale. Glad you're keeping your sweet 510. It's one of my faves!


You're too kind! :mrgreen:

Colbino
Posts: 512
Joined: 19 Sep 2007 12:58
Location: Bellevue, WA

Re: The white sloth & the silver fox

Postby Colbino » 18 Jan 2017 21:46

clean71 wrote:sounds good Colbino just let me know anytime …i think i dm'd you my number


Yes. You did. Do you drive your dime to work? I think my son's daycare is close to your work and I'm always willing to gawk at others Datsuns.

If you want to check out that front seal, let me know and I'll bring it if/when we ever meet up.

Colbino
Posts: 512
Joined: 19 Sep 2007 12:58
Location: Bellevue, WA

Re: The white sloth & the silver fox

Postby Colbino » 01 Feb 2017 00:08

Santa was kind this year and brought me the Lokar universal throttle cable kit which a lot of you use here. I ended up adding the Weber interlink linkage kit (99006.110) to accompany the cable and I'm SOOO glad I did. It made setting up and linking the carbs a breeze. The bracket screwed into the bottom of the carbs without any issues other than replacing the four screws with longer versions as I'm running a carb shields that also use these same four screws to secure them. The bracket puts the cable 'socket' directly inline with the pull and functions very smoothly. I still need to address the mounting of the other end of the cable to the firewall, but I do have a plan for that in the works. I needed to go a different route as I wanted to retain the use of the throttle rod boot and keep things sealed and a little bit more stock.

interlink.jpg
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interlink bracket.jpg
interlink bracket.jpg (394.82 KiB) Viewed 657 times


Once the throttle rod was removed from the car the ball was easily drilled out from behind and the new Lokar ball bolted into place.

drilled_arm.jpg
drilled_arm.jpg (629.47 KiB) Viewed 657 times

Colbino
Posts: 512
Joined: 19 Sep 2007 12:58
Location: Bellevue, WA

Re: The white sloth & the silver fox

Postby Colbino » 23 Feb 2017 11:43

Been spending time disassembling, cleaning, recording sizes of the dcoe's and setting up each carb to mirror one and another.
After all of that, reinstalling and syncing/tuning them I still couldn't get the rear carb to act properly. Fluctuating idle and low pressure lead me to hunt down a vacuum leak, which I did.

Removing the carbs I found that number three and four runners were not aligned with the intake port and had material protruding out into the runner of about 4/5mm. Just great! I never did gasket match before assembly (too anxious to get the motor back together I guess) and I suppose I'll have to do that now.

Upon further tear down I found that the intake/exhaust spacer was askew. I measured the flanges on the exhaust and intake and found a discrepancy of over 3/4mm. Then I noticed the completely disintegrated gasket, which mind you was a Stewart Wilkins motorsport big bore aluminum sandwich type gasket, and probably only had a few hours of run time on it. The gasket was installed somewhat dry (sprayed with copper coat and left to tack) which would explain the sticking, but the gasket was crumbling and separating from itself simply by lifting the intake from the head. Basically I burned the gasket and the crumbs were all falling out.

One half of the gasket sandwich!
intake_exhaust_gasket.jpg
intake_exhaust_gasket.jpg (706.45 KiB) Viewed 550 times


Been doing some research on intake gaskets and I'm wondering what setup you guys are running? Dry gaskets, rtv and no gasket, rtv lightly on a paper gasket, copper coated fel-pro gasket, OEM gasket, etc.? Seems a lot of people run various combinations. I'm leaning towards an OEM gasket ATM.

Also looking into sourcing studs for the head instead of running bolts, but cannot seem to find the stud length needed. I can get kits from certain Datsun sites, but there is a markup. Nissan has two of the three different part numbers available, but I don't know how each number differs.
I've got the hole and pitch size, just not the length. EDIT: One Stud appears to be 43mm in length, but is only for mounting the exhaust to the head. The studs which are used to mount the intake & exhaust with the spacer, washer, spring washer and nut will have to be longer to accommodate all the hardware. Hmm.

Odd question...Has anyone ever attempted to lightly match port a head that's mounted to the block still? Every precaution taken to ensure metal fragments don't enter the chamber, of course! But I really don't want to remove the head just to smooth the transition from runner to head. I can't find anything on the web, which probably means it's a very, very bad idea to attempt.

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Byron510
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Re: The white sloth & the silver fox

Postby Byron510 » 23 Feb 2017 23:08

Concerning your installation of the gasket - I do put myself apart here, as I actually use never seize on the intake manifold, mostly to aid in removal. A gasket between two straight and clean surfaces really does not need a sealant. I learned in my years working for the Navy (civilian), a paper gasket can easily hold 2000psi when the surfaces are clean and flat. We certainly do not approach this with out cars under any circumstance. I can't recall an intake gasket failure on any of my cars. The exhaust manifold conection does require more attention to detail. Metal ring crush type gaskets seem to weather the most cycles. But a vast majority of the failures I have dealt with in this department have to do with surfaces that are not clean and flat. All the special bolts in the world do not compensate for a warped manifold surface. And never crush a gasket more than once.
The second issue is matching the manifold heights between the intake and exhaust. That heavy washer that shares duty on both parts can only compensate for a very small deviation in height difference before becoming ineffective at providing any clamping force. Again, mismatched manifold heights usually lead to exhaust leakage.
My last comment is regarding headers, since we are close to the subject. Few brands fair well due to inadequate strength on the flange- most people just live with the leaks. However careful attention to the manifold heights is often rewarded with a reasonably good seal.
To be honest, I have tried just about every gasket out there, and keep coming back to the economically priced and readily available Fel-Pro gasket. I can modify the port sizes easily with a flap wheel in a die grinder, and I have had moderately good success in punching new holes in these for L series EFI installations where the "eye brow" relief cut out is necessary. Although a sharp carbide burr also works well.
My thoughts on the subjects since you asked :-)
Byron
Love people and use things,
because the opposite never works.

Colbino
Posts: 512
Joined: 19 Sep 2007 12:58
Location: Bellevue, WA

Re: The white sloth & the silver fox

Postby Colbino » 24 Feb 2017 00:45

Thanks for the insight, Byron. Always appreciated.

I know the surfaces were clean as a whistle and I just straight edged the head, so I can eliminate those culprits. The yoke washer being askew due to flange heights has to be the reason.

I just cleaned the surfaces again and ordered Nissan studs and a gasket. I may just try your anti-seize approach this time and focus every closely on the exhaust mani. alignment (can there really be much play to get it out of alignment when studs are in use?) as well as utilize the factory torque specs. Not sure how accurate a torque wrench will be if I cannot get to the nuts without the use of a socket joint though!

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Byron510
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Re: The white sloth & the silver fox

Postby Byron510 » 24 Feb 2017 05:45

As you are using a twin choke side draft manifold, I would measure the thickness of the manifold at the areas where the heavy washers strattle both intake and exhaust manifolds, and verify that both manifolds are the same thickness. I have found variances on most intake manifolds compared to the L16 exhaust manifold. And if you are using a header, this issue is compounded. You may find that you need to grind or machine down the thickness of the intake manifold just at the 4 fixation points, or add material to the header if this is what you are using. BTW, what exhaust manifold are you using by chance?
Additionally, I apply never seize only to the intake manifold, and I do this to allow removal of the intake without damaging the gasket, simply for service, leaving the exhaust manifold bolted to the head.

Hope that helps.

Byron
Love people and use things,
because the opposite never works.

Colbino
Posts: 512
Joined: 19 Sep 2007 12:58
Location: Bellevue, WA

Re: The white sloth & the silver fox

Postby Colbino » 24 Feb 2017 11:07

I'm running the twin canon mani., and a stock L16 extractor. Their flange thicknesses differ by 3 or 4mm depending on where you measure. In the process of filing down the intake flange now while parts are in route.


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