East Coast Vintage Racecar

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tr6racer21
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Re: East Coast Vintage Racecar

Post by tr6racer21 »

Old Carrera aluminum body shock that I'm trying to fit to the rear...with a little help from some adapters. The old motor from the PO...holed #1. the current power plant 192hp @ 7400 @ the flywheel. I was turning 131's at Summit Point with the old setup and this motor. I'd be happy to break 130...we'll see
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tr6racer21
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Re: East Coast Vintage Racecar

Post by tr6racer21 »

I have finally begun to prep the Vintage race car for the upcoming season. I wasn't able to get out last year as my Mom's health declined and after she passed on there was even more to get done. Well a new year and looking forward to some time in the seat!

Here are some updated photos of the front suspension prep and rebuild. I am using DPR sphericals in the LCA's, DPR T/C sphericals, DPR modified crossmember, new ball joints (Moog), DPR modified knuckles, 1" roll center spacers, DPR heim jointed tie rods, Kevin's steering box/idler stiffener plates, shortened stock strut tubes with welded collar and Koni Yellow adjustable race inserts, DPR caster/camber plates, 300lb springs, and DPR tubular front sway bar w/blocks and adjustable heim joints.

Before pulling things apart I pulled the left front fender for easier access to the strut. I then pulled the front springs out, set the ride height to 3" at the front crossmember and checked my bump and droop travel. The first item that touched in bump was the tire to the inner wheel house. I was able to bend this lip up a bit to help prevent a cut tire, however it won't get that close when I put the bumpstops back on the struts. Currently I have about 2.5" bump and 2.5" droop travel.

More photos to come of the assembled suspension and on the ground.
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tr6racer21
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Re: East Coast Vintage Racecar

Post by tr6racer21 »

Wanted to add that I had initially prepped and painted the components with an Eastwood rattle can. As I began to assemble things I noticed that the paint was chipping and flaking off. I took everything apart again except for the crossmember (I'll do at seasons end) and began the process of blasting everything clean again. This time I used a paint that we use for our engine builds made by Bill Hirsch...dries with a tough finish. We will see how it stands up to the track debris
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defdes
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Re: East Coast Vintage Racecar

Post by defdes »

How'd you handle the solid heim mount on the rear shocks? I just dealt with the same condition and put a rubber donut isolator on either side of it and sinched it down tight... just wondering if there was a cleaner solution.
tr6racer21
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Re: East Coast Vintage Racecar

Post by tr6racer21 »

I haven't yet used the C/O setup yet in the rear. However the solution your after is out there. Carrera/QA1 make a stud replacement for the heim end of the shaft which is removable. They also make extensions that will help you center the travel for the shock to work with the suspension travel. I will get some closer pictures of the shock in the morning showing the removable heim end. Hope that answered your question.
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defdes
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Re: East Coast Vintage Racecar

Post by defdes »

Yeah, I know the heims were removable, I took the stock 1/2" ones out and replaced them with 5/8", it was just to take up the extra length on the mount that I was curious about. I was going to make a stainless spacer for either side, but I thought what I did would be more compliant for street use.
tr6racer21
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Re: East Coast Vintage Racecar

Post by tr6racer21 »

got it!..sounds like what you did was just right for the street. I'm sure your also familiar with the conical spacers used for heims to help them retain their articulation. Used to space the bolt/nut head away from the spherical. In this case it would have to be a fairly thin spacer on either side of the heim.
tr6racer21
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Re: East Coast Vintage Racecar

Post by tr6racer21 »

Got in a little welding this morning. DPRacing's 1 1/8" sway bar requires welding supplied tabs to the underside of the LCA to locate the adjustable end links. They straddle the 14mm T/C rod/ball jt bolts with a little fitting required. Next a little paint and back on the car.
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Byron510
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Re: East Coast Vintage Racecar

Post by Byron510 »

I went a bolt in method on the Bronze. I don't have a very good photo, but when I re did the front end back in 2006, I did snap this shot. The parts were originally cad plated, but today it's just about totally gone.

My bracket was very similar to the ears you welded on, only there was a back side joining the two ears. The I used SKT HD Cap screws to secure these to the LCA and the TC rods.

Byron
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tr6racer21
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Re: East Coast Vintage Racecar

Post by tr6racer21 »

Byron,

Love the Bronze! One of my favorite Project Builds.

The bolt in version gives you more latitude for change...I figured that I wasn't going to change this setup, and the weld in plates help to strengthen the LCA.

I thought I saw in your build that you went back to stock tie rods at some point...what was your thinking there? just better for the street?

Chip
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defdes
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Re: East Coast Vintage Racecar

Post by defdes »

tr6racer21 wrote:got it!..sounds like what you did was just right for the street. I'm sure your also familiar with the conical spacers used for heims to help them retain their articulation. Used to space the bolt/nut head away from the spherical. In this case it would have to be a fairly thin spacer on either side of the heim.
Yeah, I see you have the same outer steering rods that I do in that disassembled suspension pic above. I haven't gotten them in yet, I am still drilling the 5/8" holes and maybe this will be apparent when I mount them, but I was wondering why there were so many of those washers you mentioned and are they distributed equally on both sides of the heim on each bolt or what?
tr6racer21
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Re: East Coast Vintage Racecar

Post by tr6racer21 »

defdes,

those washers are for "bump steering" the front suspension. Basically you set your tie rods to have the least affect on steering as the suspension goes through its range of articulation. I'l find a link that best describes how this is done and post it.

Chip
tr6racer21
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Re: East Coast Vintage Racecar

Post by tr6racer21 »

Here are some links to "Bump Steer" info. Not specifically addressing front strut vehicles, but principles are the same. You want to have the least amount of toe change (steering input) from the suspension as it goes through its articulation (range of motion in both bump (up) and droop (down).

http://www.circletrack.com/chassistech/ ... explained/

The other I'm looking for...will post as soon as I find it
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defdes
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Re: East Coast Vintage Racecar

Post by defdes »

tr6racer21 wrote:Here are some links to "Bump Steer" info. Not specifically addressing front strut vehicles, but principles are the same. You want to have the least amount of toe change (steering input) from the suspension as it goes through its articulation (range of motion in both bump (up) and droop (down).

http://www.circletrack.com/chassistech/ ... explained/

The other I'm looking for...will post as soon as I find it
This is good info, probably suited to it's own thread which I will start.
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