510+VG30ET+30A= Good Times

[ALVEEN]

which kind of radiator are you using there.from which car?

[big_e-dog]

volkswagen vr6

mounted the oil cooler

bought oil lines and tranny fluid


exhaust is next!

[Byron510]

Are you going to thread the exhaust back down over top of the steering box, between the head and the brake master cylinder and under the car?

Man, that makes installing a turbo on an L series look like simple plumbing.

Keep us posted

Byron

[big_e-dog]

did a few things today took a few pics...

turbo manifold sorted out



oil lines
mounted the cooler at passenger high beam..


carpet

[big_e-dog]

finished the down pipe.

installed gastank

finishing wiring to digital dash fuel sending unit and relayed walboro fuel pump

finishing the remainder of the exhaust need a few u bends for the axle part

[big_e-dog]

exhaust done and wrapped!

hooked up reverse lights

working on stereo and seats

[Byron510]

I love the fact that there is so much room between the rad and the front of the motor that you could easily route the exhaust around the front of the engine - nice motor placement.
How will that position of the motor affect other things like access to transmission bolts and such? But I can see it's great for weight bias.

Keep us posted.

Byron

[blueridgespeed]

Agree with Byron. Big e-dog is clearly unintimidated by things that folks say don't work out...easily anyway. There's quite a few of the Z31 300zx turbo guys (from which these engines typically come) who've done the front-crossover pipe. Stock is rear, which is a limiting factor for placing a VG30et as far back as possible in the engine bay.

There typically is NOT too much room between the rad and front of motor, so Big e-Dog has probably got the engine back as far as possible. Maybe even some firewall mods? Especially with that room to the rad support, I'g guess he's planning on pulling the engine with tranny attached -easy enough, and we've probably all done it a few times either way with our L-series..hard to say one way's obviously better than the other.

I like the solutions, and the progress - boldly eliminating problems with fabricated solutions!

We'd expect some cracking somewhere soon enough of some of the exhaust parts, which really isn't a bad way to "test by failure" where to insert a section of flex/woven exhaust.

Um, by the way, this car is going to be torquey and fast as heck!

[blueridgespeed]

I wouldn't trust a 90A flux core weld on 5/8" steel rod full-stop, you simply don't have the amps with that welder to get any penetration into the thick parts of the work. You've probably glued, not welded. Even less when you have backcut most of the rod to fit, leaving that 90° section as a potential stress riser.

Costs a lot less to get the piece x-rayed than your life.

Seeing you rock along, I see it's going to be a driver soon. With about 200 hp if you don't turn up the boost! Get's me thinking about the steering rod/drop link again!!! Sorry, I'm a father and medical professional, can't help it.
If you've got the part to fit right, I certainly understand any reluctance to "go back". Your welding technique looks good, but the two points raised (limited power of a 90A welder) and the replacement of a forged section with a welded section- are beyond your control.

One possible way to salvage this part (safely) would be to weld up a jig (perhaps from two junk ball-joint tapers?) that holds your fabricated drop-link. Then "gasp" grind out your welds with a "v" at least 2/3 of the way into the center of the piece. If you brought that "ready to weld" unit to a racecar fab shop, I bet it would be cheap to have them MIG it with their big rolling Miller. More heat, and shielding gas wouldn't hurt!

It still doesn't address the legitimate issues of disruption of a forged part. If it were possible to make another with just modification of the center section, weld-prepped (beveled) at butt-welded, then sleeved with a piece of tubing plug-welded a few inches apart, that would retain the strength at the forged ends. Then paint it white, keep it clean, and check for cracks before every sortie!

[big_e-dog]

GOOD ADVICE!!

the funny part is that i cut and welded it before i flipped the crossmember so now an un-modded one will fit

as for exhaust...well see what happens. not gonna be running much of anything to start but when i turn up boost youll all know LOL!

[blueridgespeed]

I should have known you've long ago solved that problem! Nice work - look forward to the driving videos!

[big_e-dog]

finished charge piping, installed only one seat. put wheels on now its on the ground....

but i guess when i put the lowering blocks i moved something because not the rear wheels stick out too much on one side than the other lol! gotta loosen and relocate!

[big_e-dog]

engine pretty much all done need a rubber radiator elbow and a egr block off plate whitch should be done tomorrow



i got lucky with the radiator hose and the crossover pipe. the stock steel 300zx pipe works perfectly.....eyeballed it didnt even measure lol!

[Rudydog]

Be sure to glue/strap down the plastic cover on the MAF since it was normally designed to work under vacuum. They have a tendency to leak or blow off under boost.

[big_e-dog]

if you havent noticed i replaced it with a heavily siliconed 1/16 carbon fiber plate lol. no leakin here!