Bert Vorgon's Spring Maintenance Project

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funwithmonkeys
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Re: Bert Vorgon's Spring Maintenance Project

Postby funwithmonkeys » 04 Mar 2017 17:15

I have found that I hardly use the brakes except in traffic where people do dumb Ingram in front of me. Yes it is the Wilwood compound A that Andy uses. I clean my wheels probably once a week. Every two weeks at the most so the dust doesn't have time to really build up. It's so easy with the lift to pull the wheels and rotate them I just cleaned the wheels at the same time.
If no one from the future comes back to stop you from doing it then how bad of a decision can it really be?

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Byron510
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Re: Bert Vorgon's Spring Maintenance Project

Postby Byron510 » 05 Mar 2017 01:18

I'll share my experience with the Polymatrix A pads - they work great, feel good and only get better when they get warm. Sounds great, until you get that brake dust wet, then it all goes to hell. It will cement, and I don't use the term loosely, to everything including your brake calipers, pistons, hubs, struts, springs and of course the wheels. And yes, when left wet the material will easily eat through your clearcoating on the wheels....That doesn't sound great at all!
As for wear, well you are running larger diameter rotors that I am as I run a standard 280ZX rotor. But what I can tell you is that I loose, consistently I've the last three sets of pads, 3.5 to 4mm of total rotor thickness to each set of Polymatrix A pads. And due to the build up on the calipers, each new set of pads means an overhaul of the brake calipers and the nessesity to chuck up each caliper piston in the lathe and scrape off the cemented build up, polish the pistons and reassemble with new seals. If I were running an OEM type caliper with a proper dust shield, I'd likely be spared the caliper rebuild at each pad change, however the Willwoods that I run, like all race calipers, are not equipped with dust boots - it is what it is.

Not pushing opinions, just sharing my experiences. At the end of the day, they work. But I also just bought a replacement set of rims to one day change out these rather etched ones - and this will be done with a pad material change you can bet!

Byron
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bertvorgon
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Re: Bert Vorgon's Spring Maintenance Project

Postby bertvorgon » 05 Mar 2017 08:11

Knowing what I know now ( not much) and if I took track days off the table, I would have been just as well to keep the stock 280ZX caliper, with a good pad. And the rear disc conversion just makes things way BETTER, as you can then MAKE the rear do more work. At least in the beginning, I would have had a very firm pedal feel. In my case, with the BMW front caliper on the rear, I have a huge selection of pad compounds, as that was a stock configuration used in so many disciplines of racing.

The biggest thing is COOLING, as no matter what your rotor size, if you cannot get rid of that heat, you are going to be toast anyhow. Putting real cooling ducts to my brakes made one of the biggest changes.

In the real world of our street driving and some SERIOUSLY fast canyon carving, and I mean FAST, 120+MPH during one day, I hardly used my brakes to the point that they got hot, let alone over heated. Driving on the street is NOT road racing, no matter how much of a hero you think you are.

I would now always make sure that my pedal feel and modulation are the priority ( and hence a practical pad choice), not some massive rotor and caliper, that 99% of the time are just for bragging rights that my caliper is bigger than your caliper.
"Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty" - Peter Egan

1973 2Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
1968 Vintage 3HP Mini Bike
1971 Vintage 13' BOLER trailer

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TheHeretic
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Re: Bert Vorgon's Spring Maintenance Project

Postby TheHeretic » 05 Mar 2017 11:27

Have had nothing but a positive experience with Porterfield R4-S pads. They brake fantastic dry or wet, don't squeal, and have minimal dust buildup. I run them on 280ZX front brakes and 200SX rear discs. Highly recommended!
Carpe Diem!
Ryan

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bertvorgon
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Re: Bert Vorgon's Spring Maintenance Project

Postby bertvorgon » 05 Mar 2017 11:43

Thanks Ryan,

I have heard good things about those. If I have a bad experience with these new pads, I will try them, if they still make a pad for 2002 BMW and the Brakeman calipers.

How is that first, one or two slow speed stops when cold? That really, as far my needs are, are what this is about, just that light to light need for grippyness when cold.
"Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty" - Peter Egan

1973 2Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
1968 Vintage 3HP Mini Bike
1971 Vintage 13' BOLER trailer

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TheHeretic
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Re: Bert Vorgon's Spring Maintenance Project

Postby TheHeretic » 05 Mar 2017 20:45

The brakes perform like OEM pads when cold. Can't tell the difference in my mind. Not sure if that is what you want.
Carpe Diem!
Ryan

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bertvorgon
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Re: Bert Vorgon's Spring Maintenance Project

Postby bertvorgon » 06 Mar 2017 06:50

That is exactly what I wanted to hear Ryan. It takes very little force to slow our cars but we need the friction of a pad when cold to do so. In the real world now, say when I leave my house, I may only have need to apply the brakes three times spread over 30+ miles, so the brakes are always cold.

I'm finishing off the rear today, then onto the front. Have to wash up the wheels too, should never have let them sit and dry wet in the past fall.
"Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty" - Peter Egan

1973 2Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
1968 Vintage 3HP Mini Bike
1971 Vintage 13' BOLER trailer

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bertvorgon
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Re: Bert Vorgon's Spring Maintenance Project

Postby bertvorgon » 06 Mar 2017 16:06

Rear pads dropped in after a bit of a grind on the bottom of the outer pad, to clear the hub. As the car is in the air I put a new fuel filter in and changed out the fuel line from pump to filter, it had gotten very hard.

You should always stay on top of any rubber lines for fuel and make sure you use proper fuel line, I use the fuel injection line, it is stronger. I change my lines out under the car every 4 years.

Tomorrow will be rear nut and bolt check.
"Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty" - Peter Egan

1973 2Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
1968 Vintage 3HP Mini Bike
1971 Vintage 13' BOLER trailer

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bertvorgon
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Re: Bert Vorgon's Spring Maintenance Project

Postby bertvorgon » 07 Mar 2017 12:41

Nothing loose at the rear, even made sure to check the retainers on the universals joints, after I almost lost one a few years ago.

Pulled front hubs off....one of our drives last year had us following a bark chip truck...so there in my brake cooling ducts, at the inside of the rotor, were chunks of bark and leaves....bearings felt ok but will check them out and re-pack.
"Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty" - Peter Egan

1973 2Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
1968 Vintage 3HP Mini Bike
1971 Vintage 13' BOLER trailer

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bertvorgon
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Re: Bert Vorgon's Spring Maintenance Project

Postby bertvorgon » 07 Mar 2017 19:36

Last thing I did today was hit the fuel pump ON button, to pressurize the system after changing the filter and hose, make sure no leaks.

This took me back in time as to why I have an air pressure gauge and a fuel pressure gauge. Back in the late 70's, when I was hitting the open highway on some of our "Cannonballs", I would run out of fuel at the top of long hills or really hard pulls..what the hell. I had LOTS of fuel pressure. After encountering this too many times, I put the air gauge in ( there is a reason all those gauges are in my car), as it compares my fuel pressure to my air box pressure, which SHOULD have a 3.5 lbs difference. Well, at the top of long hills under wide open throttle for a few minutes, the fuel pressure DROPPED to the same as air box pressure, so I effectively would run out of gas. WHY?

As it turned out after thinking about it, I had TONS of fuel pressure but NOT enough VOLUME, so after high load situations, the system could not supply enough fuel to the float bowl and I would drain it. I had gone up to a 3MM needle and seat via a "GROSE JET" on my Weber 32/36 to no avail. I then upped my fuel line size to 3/8" all the way to the carb. Problem was instantly solved and I went back to the standard 2 MM needle and seat, so as to have good fuel control to the float.

So, if you ever encounter funny issues of missing or seeming to run out of fuel at the top end, do not discount that your fuel line may be too small, if all else is good.. I had used the stock 510 fuel line and it was just too small.

And in case you want to know.....

http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/grose-jets.html
"Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty" - Peter Egan

1973 2Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
1968 Vintage 3HP Mini Bike
1971 Vintage 13' BOLER trailer

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Re: Bert Vorgon's Spring Maintenance Project

Postby bertvorgon » 09 Mar 2017 05:33

I went and picked up my starter that failed from the re-builder yesterday. As I was leaving he mentioned that he had brand new Bendix drives on the shelf, for our starters, so file that away in the memory bank.

Colin's Auto Electric is the name of his business.
"Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty" - Peter Egan

1973 2Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
1968 Vintage 3HP Mini Bike
1971 Vintage 13' BOLER trailer

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Re: Bert Vorgon's Spring Maintenance Project

Postby bertvorgon » 10 Mar 2017 08:32

It was a beehive of activity at Specialty last night, pre-race season prep going on.

The Mazda Miata is about to hit the track with a bigger Turbo this year and Colin Jackson in the GT-3 car is getting ready to go and qualify for the 2017 SCCA RUNOFFS at Indianapolis Motor Speedway this year! He will be at Thunderhill, then The Ridge, then at Portland. Andy was also finishing up a really nice 280 with one of his motors and a new stainless exhaust. It is triple carbed so it is going to sound SWEET.

I got my new rotors on and cleaned up the hubs. The bearings were ok so it was just a case of a good repack. You can see in the picture the different rib design from one rotor to another. I would think these new rotors will have more of a "fan" effect, who knows. many years ago Andy spun up some rotors in the lathe and it was very interesting as to which design pumped more air.

Popped the rotors on this morning, I am always nervous as to how tight that wheel bearing nut should be. Next week I will bolt up the calipers and drop the new front pads in, ready for a fresh brake bleed.
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"Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty" - Peter Egan

1973 2Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
1968 Vintage 3HP Mini Bike
1971 Vintage 13' BOLER trailer

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bertvorgon
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Re: Bert Vorgon's Spring Maintenance Project

Postby bertvorgon » 15 Mar 2017 07:13

Calipers cleaned up and the mounting surfaces cleaned. New pads dropped in, can hardly wait to see if they are going to do the job. A good flush of the brake fluid system is next. I find it takes about two bottles to truly purge all the older fluid. It would be cool if they made a coloured fluid, two or three different colour's, so you could SEE when the new fluid was actually coming out the bleeder. I use the right rear as my major purge, as that is the longest run and make sure I check the volume pumped out VS what has been added.

I have this cool moisture meter that James gave me, lets me see the moisture content of the brake fluid, less than 1% since last springs bleed. It's great for keeping on top of your street vehicle as it is moisture that wrecks most of our daily driven vehicles.

Next project is to make sure my methanol system is working ok. I hate this job as it is a bit of a "mine" into the left front, to get at the spray nozzles. It at least makes a good time to wash and re-oil the air filter. With the inter-cooler out of the way I also will check my water spray for the inter-cooler.

I had a thermocouple made up for James's car, which turned out to be faulty right out of the factory..Murphys a bugger! It must have had an internal short, as it would only read ambient. Dropped that back to the supplier yesterday, good thing we do not leave things till last minute.
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"Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty" - Peter Egan

1973 2Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
1968 Vintage 3HP Mini Bike
1971 Vintage 13' BOLER trailer

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funwithmonkeys
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Re: Bert Vorgon's Spring Maintenance Project

Postby funwithmonkeys » 15 Mar 2017 12:05

That brake fluid tester is a great idea. Where do you get one of those?
If no one from the future comes back to stop you from doing it then how bad of a decision can it really be?

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RMS
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Re: Bert Vorgon's Spring Maintenance Project

Postby RMS » 15 Mar 2017 12:35

I was looking at them on ebay the other day
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