Project Miracle Whip - 1968 510 4door s13 sr20det

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okayfine
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Re: Project Miracle Whip - 1968 510 4door s13 sr20det

Post by okayfine »

You're learning! :)

The mystery little gadget is the rear brake shoe adjuster. If they're in good condition (you turn what ends up being a four-sided/pointed rod) then they'll be useful to somebody. Same with the half-shafts. No result for you to do anything with them, but if they're good parts, seems a shame to toss 'em. You could offer 'em up for free+shipping and see if anyone bites. If not and you bin them, at least you tried.

FWIW, a lot of that stuff (especially the half-shaft bolts) comes apart a lot easier when they're still on the car and you can lock the driveline.
Because when you spend a silly amount of money on a silly, trivial thing that will help you not one jot, you are demonstrating that you have a soul and a heart and that you are the sort of person who has no time for Which? magazine. – Jeremy Clarkson
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Byron510
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Re: Project Miracle Whip - 1968 510 4door s13 sr20det

Post by Byron510 »

I'm one of those guys who would be interested in the adjuster if you're going to turf it.
The key is the adjuster square itself. It's 6mm across, and usually someone along the way took a pair of vise grips to them, or a shifter (crescent) wrench and stripped the thing. I actually welded up one and filed a square on it, because when you need one, there just are not any left.

Many out there have upgraded to discs like you are doing, but a whole lot more have not. I hate to see the bits be tossed.

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bertvorgon
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Re: Project Miracle Whip - 1968 510 4door s13 sr20det

Post by bertvorgon »

Learn from me also.....Do NOT throw any of those parts out, unless dead or really bagged!!!!

Some day, for whatever reason you or someone else may need them.

I got rid of so many stock parts, etc, when i started racing, and changed so much stuff......and here I am 30+ years later, trying to make my car a bit more "streetable". Thanks to others, who have donated parts, I have been able to re-install two roll down window mechanisms, with GLASS. Plus some other bits I was able to track down. When all these parts are ultimately GONE........

Clean them up, just tuck them away in a box, they don't take up much space...and one day...you could put a BIG smile on some 510 guys face.

I used to give all my stock stuff to Art Hughes, putting a big smile on his face, letting him keep his wonderful stocker going.
"Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty" - Peter Egan

Keith Law
1973 2 Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
1971 Vintage 13' BOLER trailer
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Re: Project Miracle Whip - 1968 510 4door s13 sr20det

Post by sssexxx »

Well, I'm fairly confident that I won't be going back from disk brakes and for all the help that Byron has provided, it seems the least I can do. So just give me a list of parts that you see in these pictures and I'll ship them out to you when I get the chance. I'm all about paying it forward.

Anyone have any suggestions on what to use and how to cut the bolts on the rear axels to get them out?? I was thinking dremel down the lip of the nut and then impact gun to ge the nut off.
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okayfine
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Re: Project Miracle Whip - 1968 510 4door s13 sr20det

Post by okayfine »

You need to un-peen the nut, then you'll need to lock the hub up in a way that will allow you to get a big breaker bar on the nut. Torque on the nut is something like 200 ft/lb. Some guys used impact guns, but sometimes those damage the threads on the axles.

It's generally not a pleasant job, but not the worst job on a 510.
Because when you spend a silly amount of money on a silly, trivial thing that will help you not one jot, you are demonstrating that you have a soul and a heart and that you are the sort of person who has no time for Which? magazine. – Jeremy Clarkson
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510wizard
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Re: Project Miracle Whip - 1968 510 4door s13 sr20det

Post by 510wizard »

Whatever you do, don't screw up the axle threads getting the nuts off. Not a place for jimmy rigged methods!
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shacks510
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Re: Project Miracle Whip - 1968 510 4door s13 sr20det

Post by shacks510 »

I think of rear discs of mainly just an esthetics thing. I know there's benefit of discs over drums, but it seems like they're used when they're not needed. IMO, 280zx fronts and finned aluminum drums are sufficient, even for an SR. I like the look of both discs and drums. You're spending the money, it's your car, you do what you feel is right. I know you'll do a fine job, knowing the history.
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bertvorgon
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Re: Project Miracle Whip - 1968 510 4door s13 sr20det

Post by bertvorgon »

If your just futzing around on the street, sure, rear drums will do in 90% of your usage, but, for ultimate braking, with a proper brake bias setup, where you can actually make the rear brakes work to their fullest, discs are hard to beat. getting the rears to work to their fullest keeps brake dive to a minimum, and hence weight transfer to the front, THAT is what needs to be taken into consideration.

it all just depends on how you plan to drive, and if you do any track days. I lived that one, where the rear aluminum drums just bell mouth once they get really hot.
"Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty" - Peter Egan

Keith Law
1973 2 Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
1971 Vintage 13' BOLER trailer
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RonM
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Re: Project Miracle Whip - 1968 510 4door s13 sr20det

Post by RonM »

Deja vu, sssexxx all over again. I've been following your thread on Ratsun man (RonM aka Paradime), Good to see you here too, this is a great build all round.
Sometimes people loose touch with subjectivity, because they've got they're heads stuck too far up they're own,,, Reality.
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Byron510
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Re: Project Miracle Whip - 1968 510 4door s13 sr20det

Post by Byron510 »

PM sent :D
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StrutlessWonder
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Re: Project Miracle Whip - 1968 510 4door s13 sr20det

Post by StrutlessWonder »

sssexxx wrote:Well, I'm fairly confident that I won't be going back from disk brakes and for all the help that Byron has provided, it seems the least I can do. So just give me a list of parts that you see in these pictures and I'll ship them out to you when I get the chance. I'm all about paying it forward.

Anyone have any suggestions on what to use and how to cut the bolts on the rear axels to get them out?? I was thinking dremel down the lip of the nut and then impact gun to ge the nut off.
You need use something like a Dremel tool w/ cut-off disk to carefully cut away the peening and use and new stub axle nuts (these don't require peening). This was for my 810/280ZX rear x-member under my 510, but you get the idea. The picture shows that I have only cut away one side (1/2) of the peened nut and still need to do the other side. Have fun!
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Kurt Hafer
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sssexxx
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Re: Project Miracle Whip - 1968 510 4door s13 sr20det

Post by sssexxx »

Thanks!! This will help a lot.
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Re: Project Miracle Whip - 1968 510 4door s13 sr20det

Post by HudsonMC »

I've heard other people on this board mention that reapplication of the original nut torqued to spec with proper application of red loctite is an alternative to buying new nuts from Nissan....thoughts? Experience? Axle fallen out?
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James
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Re: Project Miracle Whip - 1968 510 4door s13 sr20det

Post by James »

They're about $6.00 from Nissan.
Finished is better than perfect......
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okayfine
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Re: Project Miracle Whip - 1968 510 4door s13 sr20det

Post by okayfine »

HudsonMC wrote:thoughts?
I haven't heard that. One of those "if it was good enough to do it that way, the factory would have done it that way" kind of things. Since they did peen it, I'd suggest that route.
Because when you spend a silly amount of money on a silly, trivial thing that will help you not one jot, you are demonstrating that you have a soul and a heart and that you are the sort of person who has no time for Which? magazine. – Jeremy Clarkson
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