2.3L of fun

[funwithmonkeys]

Well I just put the car on the lift to check for any leaks and nut & bolt check. My diff is making a bit of noise and one stub has a bit of free rotation in it even though the stub is tight and shows no wear. I think there may be something wrong with the center section after having the CV kit banging away at it. I will probably pull it next week and get it checked out. I don't need that breaking on the road. My clutch slave also just started to leak. Turns out I ordered a better quality master and slave last month. My fluid in the master is turning black after a very short time so I figured the cheap seals in the cheap master and slave are the issue. I will swap them out before out next drive also.

[Three B's Racing]

Typically the ring and pinion free play is about .006" in which you'll see in the stub as "Free Rotation" You can pull the diffs rear cover and setup a dial indicator on a magnetic base and check that play. I'm sure you probably already know this, it's just that I'm a bit bored at work because Nuclear is hurry up and wait 8>)

[funwithmonkeys]

Typically the ring and pinion free play is about .006" in which you'll see in the stub as "Free Rotation" You can pull the diffs rear cover and setup a dial indicator on a magnetic base and check that play. I'm sure you probably already know this, it's just that I'm a bit bored at work because Nuclear is hurry up and wait 8>)

The free play is only on the passenger side stub. On the drivers side you can feel none.

[bertvorgon]

Mine is the same, I have some free play on the passenger side, yet the driver side has nothing.

[funwithmonkeys]

Interesting. Maybe it is just the way they are. I'm going to put in my catch can for my diff this week and swap out the clutch master and slave next week.

[funwithmonkeys]

I go to replacing the clutch master and slave today. It went smoothly with my wife helping to bleed the system. It was her first time sitting in the car!
It took about an hour total to do everything. I didn't know my clutch pedal felt soft but it did. Draining the system almost no fluid came out. What did was black and had chunks of rubber and gunk in it.

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Later this week I will do another oil change and then get her cleaned up before the show next weekend. That new trans is so shinny I wish it wasn't only me that got to see it.

[RMS]

whats the bore and application for that master ? ............. those black rubber chunks are probably from that hose you didn't change

[funwithmonkeys]

The master said it was for a 510 but it was not. It is a 5/8 bore. The thread on the fitting is 3/8 instead of the metric it should be. That's not a big deal. I had some 3/8 fittings laying around. The shaft on the plunger was also too long. Again easy fix. The rubber hose is only 4 years old. I will dismantle the master and slave to see how the realms are. If the fluid turns black again I will clean the system and replace it.

[66DUCE]

Typically the black fluid is because of a breakdown of the piston material in either the master cylinder or the slave cylinder. The fluid is constantly moving through the slave cylinder (it is well lubricated) so most of the breakdown is from the master cylinder (where the most of the fluid leaves and returns) not from the inner layer of the rubber lines. (the system would have to absorb a lot of water in the system to break down the rubber in the lines). I am sure that the clutch has had new fluid in it in the last 5 or so years? Water absorption is rated at 1% per year. You want to flush the system (brake/clutch) at no more than 3%, so most MFG will suggest a flush every 2 years (best case scenario) higher moisture content in the air more you should flush the system! (based on max 3% moisture in fluid).

[RMS]

when chunks of rubber are found in the system I think hose not cups. is that rubber line from Brazil ? the ones I got a few years back are already checked

[funwithmonkeys]

The line still feels soft and flexible. The slave was a cheap ($11) from lordco. The master was also from lordco and I am sure it is cheap also. The fluid was in there 3 years. I think I will just be changing it and the brake fluid every year to avoid future issues.

[funwithmonkeys]

Well I pulled my rear diff last week because the howl from the diff was just getting to be too much. I threw in a stock R160 from Robyn with 3.90 gears in it and dropped mine off at Bert's Auto to get it looked at. Turns out my gear set is destroyed. That CV kit is getting more expensive every day. I'm looking for another 4.44 or better gear set for my diff but until I get one I will be 1 legging it.

[zKars]

SS brake lines make nice clutch hoses... The 510/280zx one that has a male on one end and a female on the other? Trim a bit off the length of the male end if it bottoms out, add a copper crush washer, done. Take that you crappy rubber hydraulic lines, POW!

[funwithmonkeys]

So I have been doing some searching for my diff and I have found a few things. I am picking up a used Subaru CLSD with 4.44 gears, the same as what I have Monday morning. So I will be able to drop that right into my car. I have also found a Subaru R180 CLSD with 4.44's in for about $1300. It will need the axle stubs (I can get them for $375us for new steel ones) which makes it much cheape3r than building it up from scratch with a quaife or OS Gliken LSD. The question is is it worth it to spend the extra to go up to the R180 and will I need to do anything else to make it work? Thoughts?

[2DoorJim]

Aside from the stub axles you need to swap the pinion flange for one from a Datsun diff.

R160 vs R180... 180 is stronger (lesser known to break under abuse) than 160, comes with added weight unfortunately. If your existing 160 broke will it happen again with another 160?